Hmmm, while I was gone on a long trip... you started another build. Awesome & subscribe.

 

Don't pay any attention to me Gary........I've got unfinished projects dating back 15 years!

 

I understand. But, I don't think my family will 'cause I think I'm about to take a break on working on vehicles to work on the shop and tools. As said, I need to make the rotisserie, but that requires re-learning to weld. And, there's some parts-chasing involved since I want to use econobox hubs and park brake assemblies on the rotisserie.

But, I need to make and install the shelving to put the TV and speakers above the window. And, I'm knee-deep in books so have to find some strong bookshelves and mount them to the wall as there is no more floor space. However, the parts washer needs attention as the thermostat isn't working so the heater doesn't turn off when the Simple Green gets up to temp. And speaking of the Simple Green, it is simply black. So, it is time to pump the old stuff out, clean the reservoir, and replace the Simple Green.

And then there's the rolling toolbox issue. I'm using an old Kennedy machinist's roller box to both take tools under the vehicle on the lift as well as to provide a work surface. Works great except this is the Kennedy unit with a storage spot at the bottom instead of the last two drawers, so it doesn't have enough room. And, it doesn't have ball-bearing slides so the box goes away from me or comes to me as I close/open the drawers. I've been looking at new boxes but can't find quite what I'm looking for as many of them don't have enough depth in the drawers to handle the deep sockets, some of them are too large to pull around easily, and some are just too expensive to consider.

Oh well, but it is all fun!

 

Well again Gary, I'm going to suggest pawn shops or tool truck (Snapon, Mac, Matco) repo's and trade in's.

I have a couple of Grizzly Industrial tool boxes that are quite well made and smooth operating.
Grizzly.com® -- Product Categories (pay attention to the features, as they all look the same)
They were much less than the big names.
Of course they weren't made in Waterloo, but Fortune Brands doesn't need my money.

 

Sam's Club used to carry some pretty nice tool boxes. I have one at my shop . Those boxes have roller bearing slides too. I havent had any trouble with mine in 5 yrs. I dont think they had the selection they used to carry, but , I do think they still carry one style if not two.

 

Upon first glance what we are seeing in the diff is the side gears are stripped out completely.The axle shafts need to be inspected to see if they are still useable. Now the issue lies with the rear end from and the donor parts. The donor parts are from an open diff. rusty is an LS diff. The carriers as well as the side gears are different b/c in the LS rear ends one side acts as a clutch hub. So the only way to mingle the necessary parts is to change Rusty from LS to open. The bearings need to be changed in the pinion as well, but , there are some bearings from the old parts that are suitable.

On the brighter side of things the case and R&P are in good shape.

 

How do you even do this in a street car (or truck)???

Gary said, that the PO said, that the diff had recently been worked on.
Do you think that someone replaced the R&P but nothing else?
It shouldn't be very worn if it had nothing to push against.

 

I'm on line for the mo. As Bruno now knows Rusty's diff is not LS, so maybe many of the leftover parts from Dad's diff will work. Hopefully he can update us on the plan.

Bruno - Tnx

 

A chevy minivan came in for alt repalcement while we were hashing the diff over. So the alt is off , but , even with the motor rolled all the way forward the alt wont come out of the engine compartment. So hopefully we will have a solution to the GM nightmare shortly.

The bearings from the donor rear end look to be in good shape. There isnt any pitting or gaulding and they still fit tight in the races. They are branded USA so there may not be a problem with using the old stuff. That is the plan for now. We will see what else develops once we get back into the diff.

The LS assumption turned out to be wrong. The diff from Rusty is an open diff as well. The 9"s are funny and a little difficult to identify b/c unlike most others the clutches and springs are concealed inside the carrier. While looking into the carrier to inspect the side gears to determine why Rusty wont go we noticed there wasnt a seperation between the side gar and the clutch hub like there should be in an LS rear end. So no limited slip.

 

Jim - My wife suggested Grizzly early this morn, so I've already checked out what they have. And, unfortunately, none of it will work for me. The problem is twofold: First their drawers aren't deep enough (F/R) to take the Craftsman socket holders; second, they don't have drawers that are tall enough to take the deep sockets. That's a bummer 'cause I really like Grizzly. My mill is from them and I have lots of other stuff from them since we stop by their warehouse/showroom in Springfield, MO frequently when coming home from Nashville and/or DC visiting the kids. Anyway, maybe I'll look at the pawn shops.

I looked at the Sam's box yesterday. Same problem as the Grizzly ones. And, that brings up somewhere else I went yesterday - Harbor Freight. They have a box that does fit the bill and I may go that way. I have their bigger box and side cabinet under my lathe as the stand, and love it.

But, given this discussion, do you guys think I should take the issue to the Tools, Tools, .... thread?

I don't know how you blow out side gears. Yes, I remember him saying something to the effect that it had a new pinion seal, but even if they did that wrong I wouldn't think it would kill those gears. As for the R&P, they don't look new. Good, but used.

Ok, let's go with the bearings that look good. As we discussed via text msg while I was visiting Dad today, I want it done well but it doesn't need to be new.

 

Here are the axle splines on the existing axles. Here's the passenger's side:

And, here's the driver's side:

While you can see wear, it doesn't feel bad at all. In fact, since the size of the picture on my computer screen is several times larger than reality, what you see is exaggerated - I think.

So, the question is they have to be replaced. I'm hoping not as the ones I have in the parts truck have been outside for 6 months w/the diff out, so what little rain we've had may have gotten to the bearings and I'd rather not go to the expense of replacing them.

Thoughts?

 

Those dont look too bad from the pics. I bet they will be fine.

 

They don't inspire confidence but I'd guess you could use them and be OK....

 

Today I got the tear-down bench cleared off so I could use it, and then I put the bell housing/tranny/t-case combo on it to start cleaning them up. Boy, were they awful! Pulled the t-case and bell housing off the tranny and used a putty knife to scape the gunk off, which in some cases was about an inch thick. Ran out of time, but hope to be done tomorrow with the scraping.

And, while I'm scraping tomorrow I'll have the bell housing in the parts washer. Once that's done I'll try to put the tranny in there - if I'm strong enough. Or, I may use the shop crane to dangle it in there. And, I'll do the same thing w/the t-case.

Once things are clean I'll clean the back of the engine, which isn't too bad. But, I want it clean so I can do the measuring I want to do on the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, etc. And then I'll pull the clutch and inspect things, but given what we found on the diff I"m pretty sure the clutch is fine.

Will post pics when things are clean.

 

Gary,

Have you considered an autopsy table for those axles and other things too big for the parts washer?

They are usually stainless but you might find a nice white glazed one.

Comes with a sink at one end and they're self draining.