Ok, now that I'm back I will try to explain Holley power valves. The single stage that is original in that carb is 125-65, 125 is the Holley group for power valves, 65 is the vacuum value at which it opens, 65 = 6.5 in-hg. The lower the number, the later it opens. The two stage ones in the 4180s open a bleed around 12-13 in-hg, then the main enrichment clear down around 5-6 in-hg.

You can tune the enrichment by changing the valve number. An interesting side note, many of the governor equipt Holleys and the old 390 camper specials used a real low value second stage power valve and had a very small orifice to the valve area, then a passage with a drilled hole in the primary throttle shaft so that at WOT the power valve could not close.

 

Here's some info.
It was 1992 that Holley started putting the check ball in.
http://www.holley.com/data/catalogs/holley/92.pdf
You can also see how the numbers on the face are to be read.It should be a metering plate Gary, but some people swap in a jet plate from an 8150.

Edelbrock went to the trouble of producing a dual plane intake....
An 1/8" isn't much, but it can't be helping the metering signal.
Not sure why anyone would bother to add a spacer that thin.
I advise people on this board that when removing the factory EGR plate to replace it with a spacer because of the throttle linkage geometry.

Cut away the unsupported cloverleaf of gasket, it's just going to end up in the engine.

 

Ok, got it. Tnx. So, since the only # I can see on this power valve is 13 it probably doesn't mean it opens at 1.3".

I'll follow up on that link this evening. Tnx.

The 1/8" plate is commercially made, and it sandwiches the 4-hole standard gasket between it and the carb. Then the open gasket is between the plate and the manifold. I had a new open gasket so put that on, but re-used the standard base gasket.

Concerning the linkage, it seems fine with the carb at that height. However, apparently the Performer 400 moves the carb forward like the Performer 351W does, as the foot feed moves quite a ways before the throttle moves, but it does look like I get full throttle on the carb if you stand on the pedal. Think I'll have to relocate the bracket when I put the engine in Dad's truck, if I do.

Anyway, I didn't find anything wrong with the carb itself, so re-installed it and checked the float levels. Gas went everywhere on both of them when I pulled the sight plugs. Adjusted them down, probably 3+ flats in front and 2 in the rear, to the point it doesn't quite run out. Then I reset the idle mix and wound up ~1/2 turn open on both sides. And, I'm getting a strong 17" of vacuum. Then I found an open port on the vacuum tree at the back of the manifold, and when I capped it the idle went down a bit. Can't get it back with the idle mix, but the vacuum is still a strong 17". Pull any vacuum cap and idle goes up a bit, put it back and it settles back down.

Oh yes, the electric choke was backed 1/2 turn ahead of the scale, so I set it where it was just closing well when on the bench. When it got gas it started immediately and the fast idle came was waaaaaay too much. But, the choke came off pretty quickly so I know it is working. Gotta do a bit of tuning on that choke.

I'm getting ready to take it on a drive on the highway, so will let you know how it runs later. Rusty does have a tach, although it doesn't work. What I find interesting that it has to be turning less than Dad's is at the same speed as they have the same 3.50 gears but Rusty is a manual and has bigger tires. However, it begs for another gear. Must be the Flowmaster exhaust making it seem like it is spinning faster. Lots faster.

 

Apparently 351M's can be Jekyll and Hyde. Rusty's 351M runs more like the 351W I built and sold recently - but stronger. Much stronger. When punching it in 2nd it is time to shift NOW. Unfortunately I'm not adept with the NP435 yet so I don't find 3rd all that quickly, but it takes up where 2nd left off. Punching it at 45 in 3rd gets you to 60 very quickly, and a shift to 4th sees 75 quickly as well. I was grinning ear-to-ear!!

Given the sound of the exhaust I had to listen closely to pick out when the secondaries opened, but they do open and seamlessly. No stumble, no bog, just a changing tone and continued acceleration - rapid acceleration I should say.

And, the thing pulls well from idle. Whatever cam is in it has good low-end torque. I take off from a stop in 2nd, but that's the only time I use it, even on city corners. So, basically I drive it as a 2-speed unless I stop completely.

However, when I got back from this run the idle wasn't all that good so I checked and had to readjust the idle mix. When I got done I was back to 17" of vacuum but had the screws open 1 full turn. So, something changed on that drive.

Anyway, I like it!

 

YAY!

 

See?

They're part of the Cleveland family, and the 351C is one of Ford's best engines.

 

I think whenever you get the Holley dialed in and fixed you should probably put it in Dad's truck and throw that old Junky Ebrock 1406 in Rusty.That will also save you a step and you wont have to go through the trouble of doing a carb swap.

 

Yep, it was a good feeling. I'm not saying this engine is for sure going in Dad's truck 'cause I need to run some tests on it, but it sure is good to know that the M can perform.

I won't argue with you, but I really did like the 351W. It sure had potential.

LOL! Sounds like a man with a motive. Gonna be hard to put that Holley on Dad's as it has a 2bb manifold. As for the "Junky Ebrock", you mean the one just like yours?

Anyway, don't think I'll do anything to Dad's engine but swap it into Rusty and vice versa. I'll let the NO hop that engine up.

 

Sweet ! At least it runs good (I'm assuming that is the right word I'm looking for).

 

I always felt that the 351M needed a four barrel to feed those big ports. The biggest problem with them seemed to come after Ford got hit by the EPA for falsifying test results on 351M and 400 engines, I guess they really killed them in order to make the feds happy.

The reason you had too readjust your idle mixture, you burned a lot of carbon out of the combustion chambers, now it needs more fuel. I used to see it all the time on cars and trucks after a carburetor rebuild. I used to tell customers to bring it back in a week and we would reset it if needed for no charge. Chrysler products were the worst, it would take 10-15 miles of good highway speeds to clean up a 383, 413 or 440.

 

Sweet is the right word. Not sophisticated. Not well sorted out. But sweet. :-)


Hadn't heard about the falsification. Will have to research that as it would be good info to drop in casual conversations.

And, any carbon that was in there is now gone. Going to have to look up the gear ratios to see what it was turning at 60 in 3rd. Guessing 4500, and it hadn't backed off at all.

Edit: Third is 1.66:1. From memory, Dad's truck was supposed to be turning 2700 at 60. Times 1.66 that would be 4,482 in third. But, Rusty has bigger tires so it wouldn't be quite that. Anyway, it hadn't backed off a bit. I think this one is a keeper. Plan to do some quantifiable testing with both trucks soon.

 

This would be an ideal time to sea foam the engine Gary. That would certainly get rid of the carbon if there is any left.

 

Pour some Seafoam in the tank (preferably when your at about 1/2 a tank), pour some more in the oil.

Take her for a drive until she hits almost E.

Then go fill 'er up. Change the spark plugs. Then Change the motor oil and filter.

Then, readjust the carburetor and play with the timing a bit with your vacuum gauge.

I'll bet you can get 19 or 20'' from that motor.

Liking the NP yet? With 4.10's and 31's, I can take off from almost a stop in my truck in 3rd gear.

2nd through 4th for normal driving, 1st for when you need a real man's truck to do a real man's job. The best part is is that the transmission is so tough.

 

The method I endorse is to suck some into the engine via carb vacuum port. Then let it sit for a couple of hrs followed by some hammer time getting on the hwy.

 

And everyone says M-Blocks are boat anchors.