Bruno - Cool! I'll look forward to it.

All - The clutch alignment tools came in today, so I should be ready to start installing things tomorrow.

 

Sweet ! I can't wait to see the pictures !

 

Got the flywheel up there, bolted on, and then torqued down by holding the crank pulley bolt with a socket and breaker bar. Then hung the clutch in its approximate place with the alignment tool, and got the pressure plate loosely attached. Put the clutch disk where it belonged and snugged the pressure plate up and then torqued it down.

Walked in and gave the NP435 and associated bell housing a bear-hug and it didn't move. Relocated several things in the shop and got the cherry picker over there and the unit up in the air - see the pic below to prove it. Lifted it enough to put on the tranny jack and secured it there. Not nearly as scary up there w/o the t-case hanging in the breeze. Rolled the combo in and started looking for a way to get it under the truck, even though it is on the lift at the highest position. (NB: Be sure to check your intended jack purchase to ensure it goes low enough to come out from under the vehicle.) Got it under there by nodding, rolling, nodding, etc. Got it into position and almost had the input shaft into the clutch when a horrible thought occurred to me - where's the dust shield? Went to lunch.

Well, the dust shield didn't get cleaned in all the work done last week. In fact, it is GROSS. So, the parts washer is warming up while I type. But, I've already reversed the above procedure and rolled the tranny back and removed the pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel. Oh well, it is only time and I have that in abundance it seems. But, it is frustrating nonetheless.

Ok, the dust shield is clean and installed on the back of the engine, hanging on the alignment pegs. But, as the flywheel is swung into place the dust shield jumped off the pegs and won't let the flywheel go all the way on. However, when pulling the flywheel off, which takes both hands, the shield also comes off and straight down. Yep, bent an ear slightly, so it had to be straightened. This time the shield was secured with two short 7/16-14 bolts and the flywheel is now back on and the shield can't come off the pegs.

Well, it is now two hours later and I'm back to where I was before, but with the dust shield in place. I made two guide pins out of 7/16-14 bolts about 3" long to line the tranny up with the engine. Actually, that was the 2nd set I made as the 1st set was 4" long and they wouldn't let the tranny up under the firewall that far back so I made a shorter set and 3" is about right - but no longer. And, by having the tranny in a gear I was able to turn the output shaft to get the input shaft splines to align with the clutch splines. (I'd rather be lucky than good!)

And, finally the tranny is bolted up and the rear cross-member is in place supporting it. But, this cross-member doesn't have the Z-piece that goes to the top of the frame - although there are holes for them on the support and the bolts are still in the top of the frame. Remember, this was a 2wd and has been converted to 4wd, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. I tried a brace that I have a from an auto and while it fits there are no holes in the cross-member to bolt it through. Hmmm. Well, since Rusty will ultimately be automated and I do have the right pieces for that I guess I'll run him this way for a while - the PO did. But, then, look what else he did.

Tomorrow is Dad's birthday so we are headed to KS. Looks like Friday I'll hang the transfer-case, install the driveshaft (rear only for the moment), fill the tranny, t-case, and rear axle with lube, add a shift lever or two, maybe some brake drums and rear wheels, AND DRIVE RUSTY!

 

Great progress on (C)rusty!

And Happy Birthday wishes to your Dad!
Lots of good wishes for you both from out here on the internets.

 

What he said...

 

Thanks guys. Dad will be 92 tomorrow. I'll tell him the Ford truck guys said happy birthday.

 

You tell him that, Gary. I hope hope he has a good birthday too. And I hope all of you's have a good day as well.

 

Yeah 92 is an accomplishment to say the least. Tell him we all said Happy Bday.

 

I drove Rusty today! First time since I've owned him.

Here's what I did to Rusty today:

• Installed the t-case, using some blue RTV I seem to have a bit of (Thanks, Bruno ) instead of a gasket between the NP435's extension housing and the t-case
• Installed the driveshaft and found the front u-joint will need to be replaced soon
• Installed and adjusted the clutch linkage, but the way the linkage mounts to the transmission is cludgy and the bushings are shot so I'll need to replace that stuff when I move it to Dad's truck
• Filled the t-case with ATF and the tranny & rear axle with 80/W90. The ATF was pretty easy using the screw in pump I have for quart jugs, but the 80W90 went in via one of the suction guns and that turns into a workout given the volumes needed for the tranny and rear axle.
• Put the shift levers back in. The t-case lever was easy, but the one for the tranny was a chore.

Initially the carb wasn't working well as it didn't want to take off from a stop very well, but after it warmed up it did ok. And, the engine does seem to have some spunk, although I only have about 5 miles of driving time on it and most of that was in town. But, I'm not sure how I'm going to like the Flowmaster 40 as the exhaust seems loud, although I did have the windows down. Also, this thing begs for another gear! Man oh man, I keep reaching for the gearshift and finding it in 4th already. And yet, it has the same 3.50 gears Dad's has, so the exhaust is probably part of that.

Also, the engine idled way to fast, so when I got back to the shop I did a bit of tuning. The idle dropped down to 600 R's but was only pulling 16" of vacuum. I did find a vacuum cap missing on the carb, and replacing it helped a bit, so I checked the timing - 10 BTDC, which is where I would have put it. Then the idle mix. Hmmm, the driver's side screw was closed while the other one was out about a turn. In the end I got to 17" of vacuum with both screws open 1/4 turn.

As you know, I'm not a Holley guru, but idling at 1/4 turn open just doesn't seem proper. I've attached a couple of pictures of the carb, including one of the #'s on the air horn. I don't know anything about the carb, so maybe some of you can enlighten me? What is it? What could make the idle so fat that the screws can only be opened 1/4 turn? I haven't checked the float level yet, but that might be part of it.

Tomorrow I'll take it out for a longer drive and see how it goes. But, the axle bearings weren't warm at all after the 5 mile drive, and the diff was slightly warm, so I think the rear axle is in great shape. And, as I said, the engine does have some spunk!

 

That carburetor is a Holley 4160 600 CFM vacuum secondary carburetor.

9834-3 is the model #.

Holley Carburetor Listing by minuit10

 

The LIST #...
It's a model 4160.

Float level could be a huge part of it.
First adjust the floats.

Then,

Will it run at all with both mixture screws all the way in?
If so, it is likely a blown Powervalve.

With 17" vacuum you want a #125-185 replacement.
Or maybe as low as -165

The list number shows the choke cap should be set to the index mark, the pump cam in the #2 position and the qualifying (choke pulloff) at .159"

 

Well, yeah, the list number. The model number is 4160. I'm so used to saying model # when it comes to things...

Ya'll know what I mean.

How was the birthday?

 

I do.

Thank you for the link!

There are literally hundreds of build variations of the 4160 Holley.
The List number tells you what it came off the line with, when it was calibrated for a specific application.

These things seem to live lives of their own, passing from one car to another, being sold at swap meets, or on Craigslist.
You'll never know what has been done to this one but it is nice to have a baseline.
And Holley's website has all that documentation in their 'technical library'

 

Thanks! I assumed it was 600 CFM, but really didn't know. And, thanks for the link.

Yes, it will almost run with the screws all the way in. Or, I should say almost idle, but with just a bit of throttle it will run. A blown PV would allow gas to be pulled through it so no, or little, gas is needed from the idle circuit. Right?

And, if I remember correctly the 185 PV opens at 8.5" and the 165 at 6.5"? Given the fact that it sounds like it has a bit of a cam, I'm wondering if I ought to go back with the 165. It should help with the MPG if I keep out of it.

The birthday was great! Thanks for asking. He knew it was his birthday and how old he is. Seemed to really enjoy the day.

Thanks for the info. Yes, this one has been around for a while, judging by its appearance.

I think I'll pull it off tomorrow and see what it looks like inside.

Thanks again, guys!

 

Go CRusty! Maybe driving it will facilitate some more layers of crust falling off the undercarriage. Drive over some speed bumps - or whatever is analagous to speed bumps in Podunk (polecats?).