So, why doesn't the diesel require an alignment tool? And, had I thought about the alignment tool it would have been good to borrow, but at the price (see below) it isn't worth it to come back.

You are correct, according to Amazon. And, Rusty is 1 1/16" x 10 splines, according to Amazon. Both tools should be here on Tuesday. One was $5 and one was $6. Not absolutely positively sure I'll have to buy a clutch for the ZF, but will need to put Rusty's back, so might as well get them both.

 

I LOVE Amazon!! (Have I already said that?)

I have my wife's Passport torn apart and fine the moulded hose under the rear of the lower intake is rotted and ripped.
Dealer wants $38, and $17 to have it overnight.

I found it from Gates on Amazon for $7.50, free shipping, and ordered it at 10:00AM yesterday, had a tracking number by 1:00 and it was on my porch at 10:00 this morning.

YAY

 

That's some score! I love Amazon as well, but you've heard that before also. Local parts store quoted me ~$400 for a Gates timing belt/idler pulleys/water pump kit for my wife's Subie. Got the exact same part # from Amazon for $175 with free shipping and had it 2 days later.

Yes, we don't get things the next day like you did and like our daughter in Nashville does. She's ordered something of an evening and had it the next morning. Apparently N'ville is a hub, and their house is early in UPS's delivery schedule. UPS come to us about 5 each evening.

 

I suppose none of them require a line up tool. I just turn the output shaft until the input lines up with the splines in the friction disc carrier.

 

If you want to save a few dollars Gary, you can machine a pilot tool out of a piece of scrap shafting.
The splines aren't necessary - just the pilot bearing diameter at the tip, then step up to the I.D. of the splines & extend back enough to hold on to.

 

Bruno,

I thought the point (no pun intended) of the tool is to get the friction disc concentric with the pilot bushing in the back of the crank, before you tighten down the pressure plate.

There's no way that I know of to clock the splines, except to try and have one straight up before you offer the bellhousing to block.
Even then, I sometimes have to turn the crank with a breaker bar to get it to go.

 

Finding the part numbers of these moulded hoses on Gates' website through their "NaviGates" application guide allowed me to purchase all 11! of them for the cost of only a couple from the Honda dealer.
In for a penny, in for a pound, as they say...
I can't see putting any 16 year old rubber back on there when it takes almost two hours to get to them.
The local parts stores couldn't help with applications and couldn't get these numbers from their warehouses.

, sorry...

 

If I understand correctly, I'd use the OD of the front of the tranny's input shaft and the effective ID of the clutch's splines to make that tool. That should work to center the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, which is the reason for the tool. But with the tools being $5 & $6 each buying them is cheap enough. And, I don't remember having any stock larger than 1 1/16" and especially 1 1/4". But, I'll file that away for future use, though.

Somehow I got the shift lever out in some gear rather than neutral, so I should be able to turn the output shaft and feel the splines line up. I hope.

Not a hijack to me. And, I fully agree that it makes no sense to put old rubber back in when it is relatively inexpensive to put new in. However, I've not tried NaviGates but will file that away as well as I like their products. So far Amazon's been spot-on with their vehicle matching, but it always makes me feel good to get a 2nd opinion.

 

Gary,

You need a number (from the thousands of hoses) to see if it will match.
On the Gates site you choose; Belts, Coolant, Brake, Hydraulic hoses and it lists them ALL for you.

THEN you search the numbers on Amazon for matches.

I got ALL eleven for under $80

...It was just by chance the one I REALLY needed came in the first shipment.

 

First, you guys will have to hold the fort today as I'll be in KS to see Dad.

But, on the Gates front it sounds like the Amazon site doesn't find the hose, for instance, for you. That you find it via Gates, get the #, and then see if Amazon has it. Is that correct?

Guess I'll have to try it to fully understand, but I'll bet I can get there from here. I buy a lot of things locally, but when I find price differences like I did on the Subie's parts it just doesn't even come close to making sense.

 

I hope you and him both enjoy the visit.
I understand what it is like when someone you love becomes "forgetful".
Go to this page and enter the vehicle.
It will categorize all the aftermarket products they make for for that application.
They have part numbers and by clicking on that # they show photographs, so you're sure which (heater hose, for example) it really is.
Armed with a list of specific numbers, it is easier to find them on the web.
NaviGates - Gates Website
I would MUCH rather patronize small local businesses, but when they aren't helpful, or can't get it through normal channels in a timely fashion, I go the route of quickest and least expensive for an exact item.

I don't want a no name Malaysian hose any more than I want a 16 year old one..

 

We had a good day. Took him on a long drive, including the same places we went with the truck two weeks ago, but he didn't remember and had a really good time.

I tried it out on Dad's truck and they even have the metallic hose that brings the hot air from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner's snorkel. Control-C'd the PN there and then typed Gates and hit Control-V into Amazon's search and they have it for $8.82 with free shipping. Cool! Thanks

 

So I am curious Gary. Are you being able to keep yourself on track with Rusty's budget so far? The diff didnt set you back too much and I would think what you spent to have it fixed would be comparable to what some new clutch components would have cost.

Any idea or comparisons?

 

I think I'm going to come out at least as well as expected when I thought the problem was the clutch. Given the grinding noise I assumed both the flywheel and pressure plate were goners, and had found a clutch/pressure plate set and flywheel on Amazon for ~$200.

But, I was operating on the assumption that I could just slide the tranny and t-case back to get to that stuff, so wasn't going to change the lube in them. However, with needing to actually pull them to get a good, clear shot at the clutch components for measuring I went ahead and drained them so I'll have a bit of a cost to refill them. And, I'll obviously have to add the cost of the rear axle fill to the total.

So, I will be a bit ahead of plan on cost, meaning I won't have spent quite as much as expected. And, I'll have clean lube in the transmission, transfer case, and rear axle, not to mention that the rear axle will be in top notch shape. IOW, Rusty will be in better shape when this is done than I expected.

Thanks, again, to you and James!

 

Ok, I wasnt sure on what you had estimated the clutch damages to cost. You never know what is really bad in clutches until you get them apart. I always do the full 9 yards-clutch disc, p plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and surface flywheel. However, even on a few of the ones I have done I could have just replaced one of the compnents and gotten several more yrs of service. I just weigh the task of pulling everything apart against gambling on only changing a throwout bearing vs pulling everything again in 2 yrs to replace other stuff. So that had me wondering if you had only planned on replacing minimal parts in the clutch job which we all thought was the original Rusty no go issue. So considering all of the additional lubricants you are still ahead a little. Probably not more than $30-$40 though. I would imagine you are going to spend $40-$50 on lube. If you dont have everything refilled before the NEOFTEGTG let me know . I have a 5 gallon bucket of 80/90W gear oil that I wont be using all of in the 10 yrs. I would be glad to bring a gallon or two out to the meet. Like I said I cant use it all 5 gals is a lot of 80/90W. My dad had it and another couple of gallons in a bucket left over from when he used to own a dumptruck. He is retired and sold his truck so he didnt need it. My cement mixers use it in their gear boxes, but , they only hold 1-1/2 qts and I change them every couple of yrs. It is just sitting out at my warehouse along with my 55 gal drum 10W30. It still has around 45 gallons in it. I had more gas engine trucks a couple of yrs ago , but , sold them and kept the diesels. I go through a 55 gal drum of 15W40 about every 2 yrs. My 7.3 IDI's take 4 gallons per change and my 5.9 Cummins takes 3 gallons. So I can go through 25 gallons of that in a yr.