thekingofcows Build Thread
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
I think I might take my original trac bar, cut both of the round holes (for the bushings) off leaving about ten inches or so to chuck up in my lathe.
Then I could turn and thread the cut off pieces to 7/8s by 18 right and left handed threads. Then build a D.O.M. link to connect the two threaded bushings things so i can have an adjustable trac bar
What do ya'll think?
Then I could turn and thread the cut off pieces to 7/8s by 18 right and left handed threads. Then build a D.O.M. link to connect the two threaded bushings things so i can have an adjustable trac bar
What do ya'll think?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
why not finish setting up your suspension and measure for the correct length trac bar. No need to make it adjustable.
Now on your drag link it is necessary to make it adjustable. Id tap the ends of your piece of DOM to accept off the shelf kevlar lined heims. For $20 each Im not sure its worth the time and effort to make one yourself.
Now on your drag link it is necessary to make it adjustable. Id tap the ends of your piece of DOM to accept off the shelf kevlar lined heims. For $20 each Im not sure its worth the time and effort to make one yourself.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
I making it adjustable so that I can fine tune the axle lateral stance. I know I shouldn't have to, but this being my first truck I have done extensive modifications to, I don't want to take any chances so I came up with a free, stout, and cool way to do it.
That peter bilt tie rod I mentioned earlier has 1-1/8-12 right hand threads on one side, and left on the other so what i have done is sawed off the ends of my track bar and cut left handed threads on the lathe to get it to fit in the existing threads on the peterbilt tierod. Next I cut the right hand threads on the lathe. I cut off the tie rod to the right lenghthand since 1-1/8-12 is a common thread I just borrowed a tap and retapped the now shorter tie rod to accept the original ends of my trac bar, the bar appears have been forged so i believe this will be exceptionally strong, plus I can use cheap stock bushings that are available at any parts store.
I need to take a picture of the whole deal, so I'll try to do that this weekend. But here is a picture of the lh threads.
That peter bilt tie rod I mentioned earlier has 1-1/8-12 right hand threads on one side, and left on the other so what i have done is sawed off the ends of my track bar and cut left handed threads on the lathe to get it to fit in the existing threads on the peterbilt tierod. Next I cut the right hand threads on the lathe. I cut off the tie rod to the right lenghthand since 1-1/8-12 is a common thread I just borrowed a tap and retapped the now shorter tie rod to accept the original ends of my trac bar, the bar appears have been forged so i believe this will be exceptionally strong, plus I can use cheap stock bushings that are available at any parts store.
I need to take a picture of the whole deal, so I'll try to do that this weekend. But here is a picture of the lh threads.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
1-1/8-12 RH Tap. RH thread Bushing LH Thread bushing.
There is the left hand thread busihng threaded into the peterbuilt tie rod. (Which already had the right threads)
All I got to do now is meaure for the right length when I finish up my front suspension (hopefully this weekend) and cut the tie rod to the right length and tap the approiate right handed threads.
Total investement of like 15$ in this adjustable trac bar, but it will probably come back to bite me one day...
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
just like the one on a stock ford tie rod end, the clamp slides over the end of the tubing were the slots are and you tighten it up. This binds the threads of the tubing with the threads inside it.