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Built a drop hitch last Saturday. It required about a 17" drop. Im sure you all know how to build a good strong hitch but here's a pic or two so if anyone needs a reference.
Start with a bard of 3x1 and mill out a square at the angle you want it be...
Then weld it all together with a stick welder in multiple passes. Sorry this is as detailed as its going to get...
The gusset is very important, this one could be better however.
This is an aside but if your ever setting up any axle that has a crush sleeve, these are handy.
Now, I just need to redesign my towing package as all this new found leverage will probably take is toll on it.
In my quest to cool of my transmission. I have relocated the cooler to the bed of the truck, and I built an aluminum housing for the cooler to reside in. On the front , there is an electric fan pulling liberal amounts of air through the cooler. I currently have it set up of a switch in the cab, but I have plans to one day make it thermostat controlled. As I am famous for not revealing completed pictures of these mini projects here are two pictures I snapped when almost done with the relocations.
My tig welder exploded withing the first inch of the weld due to a dog that chewed through one of my lines, so I resorted to gluing it together. It doesn't look as good but it should be more than strong enough.
Since I put this cooler in, I have noticed less of the typical transmission problems, so I expect that maybe (fingers crossed) I have solved the problem.
Perhaps later on I will take pictures of the set up.
I figured I would post an update on my Ford since it has been a while.
I ended up ordering a Yukon Grizzly Locker to replace the broken Detroit. It works way more smoothly so I figure the Detroit was indeed a manufacturing defect...
While I waited for that to come in, I rebuilt the transfer case, and since I have had so many problems with the transmission shifting at the wrong times, I installed a different governor. It didn't help any. I'm still shifting the truck manually through the gears as the transmission does not go back into first gear at a stop, and shifts through the gears as quickly as it can when left to its own devices.
I found a highliner brand headliner in a junk yard (like the one LMC sells for +-$300) for $15, and installed it along with a cb and 4 inch speakers. It looks cool but I don't have any pics of it so you'll have to take my word for it.
Because the 4 4" speakers are right over my head I got a small amp and two 6x9s to go behind the seat here are the speakers in the homemade boxes.
I also decided that white rims didn't look as cool as black rims, so I spray bombed the steelies black and installed chrome lug nuts. I figure as I use the truck, the wheels will gather a natural patina like everything else has.
I have come to the conclusion that C6 transmissions are pretty terrible.....
and i have come to the conclusion you have a **** tranny. i'm not too sure what's up with mine since i really haven't done any driving with it, but this one is by far my worst c-6 and i assume my issue is just crappy old linkage as it misses 1st when manually shifting and is slow to find gears in general. in auto it still works great.
I plan on ridding of the 460 of its 'no low end problem' building a different tranny, and reinstalling air conditioning.
I have never installed a timing chain before (or had the timing cover off for that matter). What problems would that much slack cause? Would that throw my power band off?
I decided to go on and rebuild the motor. After further disassembly (and a camshaft mishap...)
And I rebuilt my power steering box and added hydro assist.
I havent gotten the motor back yet.
Looks mo better in person I guess but I'm happy with it. It works great.
I'm ready to play in this thing again! I haven't be enable to take much of anywhere since August. But you gotta pay to play, and in my case wait to play I guess.
A little slack in a timing chain is normal. In my '93 wrangler, I changed the chain when the motor had 90k on it (probably the first time it'd been done to it) and it would flop in and out at least an inch (probably like 1.5"). It still ran, but with the newer parts (cam/chain/bearings/etc) it ran a lot better! A sloppy/stretched chain will tend to retard the cam timing, which can make the motor feel a little lower on power. When you put the new timing chain on - make sure the timing gear is an "OLD" style timing gear (for a 68-71) - the emissions 460's (1973+) had 4* of cam retard BUILT INTO THE GEAR (which can't be changed without cutting a new keyway). The older style is set to 0* retard, which will also give you a little more torque.
Looks good - you're inspiring me to keep working on mine, though...I'm not building a crazy mud truck like you - mine is going to stay a little bit stock for now, get it running 100% (or as close as I want), fix the stupid stuff that keeps me from really enjoying it, then worry about lifting it and getting bigger tires.