thekingofcows Build Thread
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
Been a while since a posted an update on my truck. I've nearly worn the hawgs out, the lugs are starting pop off, so I'll be in the market soon for new tires.
I pulled my tranny last weekend to fix a leak and decided to go through it and found this...
I don't really know how it was working so well with the low reverse clutches completely gone. I guess the manual valve body really throws some pressure to it.
I'm also in the process of upgrading to hydroboost. I got a unit off like 2008 model f250, and made a conversion bracket for it.
Since I wanted to keep it all low profile, I didn't extend the bracket off the firewall like the original. The booster rod is now too long to bolt to the brake pedal, plus my brake pedal is the one with the weird offset, so I guess rather shortening the rod, I may just weld a bracket to the brake pedal to make up the difference. Maybe this pic will explain it better.
I guess that's about it. Any input is welcome.
I pulled my tranny last weekend to fix a leak and decided to go through it and found this...
I don't really know how it was working so well with the low reverse clutches completely gone. I guess the manual valve body really throws some pressure to it.
I'm also in the process of upgrading to hydroboost. I got a unit off like 2008 model f250, and made a conversion bracket for it.
Since I wanted to keep it all low profile, I didn't extend the bracket off the firewall like the original. The booster rod is now too long to bolt to the brake pedal, plus my brake pedal is the one with the weird offset, so I guess rather shortening the rod, I may just weld a bracket to the brake pedal to make up the difference. Maybe this pic will explain it better.
I guess that's about it. Any input is welcome.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
I like the plate mount for hydroboost. I always reccomend doing it that way for easy install but I just weld plate to firewall.
For rod being too long I cut and full pen welded. Do it if your capable. Here's a couple saved pics I had on this issue.
Couple ways you could go.
Top pic: if rods are same diameter. Slide on sleeve, bevel, weld , grind weld smooth, slide sleeve over weld, weld sleeve.
Bottom one is if your welding two different diameter rods.
It has to be good!! It's the most important weld on your rig
For rod being too long I cut and full pen welded. Do it if your capable. Here's a couple saved pics I had on this issue.
Couple ways you could go.
Top pic: if rods are same diameter. Slide on sleeve, bevel, weld , grind weld smooth, slide sleeve over weld, weld sleeve.
Bottom one is if your welding two different diameter rods.
It has to be good!! It's the most important weld on your rig
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
^^^ I thought about shortening the rod, but I would still have to pull the pedal and re-drill the mounting hole. I've thought about just cutting the push rod, threading it, and building an L shaped bracket to drop the push-rod down the inch or so to the brake pedal hole.
The other option would be to pull the brake pedal and weld a bracket to the pedal that would extended toward the rear of the truck and mate with the stock length push rod. If I did this, however, I would need to shim the brake pedal to the side about an eighth of an inch to clear the wider part of the push rod.
In Hindsight, I should have taken more time and built a bracket that offset the booster the correct difference from the wall, then I could use a stock booster with no modifications... sometimes laziness trumps good engineering though.
I didn't weld the plate to the firewall simply because I have a bunch of dampening material in that area, and it would be a mess to remove. Furthermore, I wanted to retain those four bolts as they hold the brake pedal assembly.
The other option would be to pull the brake pedal and weld a bracket to the pedal that would extended toward the rear of the truck and mate with the stock length push rod. If I did this, however, I would need to shim the brake pedal to the side about an eighth of an inch to clear the wider part of the push rod.
In Hindsight, I should have taken more time and built a bracket that offset the booster the correct difference from the wall, then I could use a stock booster with no modifications... sometimes laziness trumps good engineering though.
I didn't weld the plate to the firewall simply because I have a bunch of dampening material in that area, and it would be a mess to remove. Furthermore, I wanted to retain those four bolts as they hold the brake pedal assembly.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Hickory Flat, MS 38633
If I had know sooner I would have given you my old 44s...
they had like 50% left on them... just put 50s on my rig.
they had like 50% left on them... just put 50s on my rig.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thekingofcows
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
16
Jun 25, 2015 08:33 PM
martin72
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
18
May 22, 2014 07:51 PM
thekingofcows
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
24
Mar 29, 2012 09:53 PM
