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I'll spend today pulling the guts out of them. Once it warms up to above 60 it'll be safe to venture outdoors and I'll check the heads for warpage. They may be beyond resurfacing. I have to give credit to that engine for being able to function with all the coolant that was being dumped into the combustion ports.
Clean the block very well now and looks for hairline cracks. I doubt you have a bad block but always look just in case. Do NOT use an air sander of any sort to clean the heads, block. You dont realize it but you can take off a fair bit of metal in little time with an air sander. Just use a razor to get the most of the gasket off, then use a light sandpaper to get the rest. Deff. have the heads checked for warpage, and pressure. Like i said any good machine shop should be able to do this for a decent price, and if i was you, you could even have them do a valve job while there at it, or if you have the know-hows you can do it. You might as well while you have the heads off.
I'll spend today pulling the guts out of them. Once it warms up to above 60 it'll be safe to venture outdoors and I'll check the heads for warpage. They may be beyond resurfacing. I have to give credit to that engine for being able to function with all the coolant that was being dumped into the combustion ports.
You don't go out till it hits 60 ? Hell, it was 50 here yesterday and I was outside in a t-shirt installing an MTX custom fit subwoofer, new door speakers, and a back-up camera in mine. That warm weather's got you spoiled.
I checked the heads with a straight edge and light behind it. There was a small area on each of the heads with a gap less than 0.0015 (the thinnest gauge I have). Once my spring compressor comes in, I'll disassemble the heads and send them off to a machine shop to check for cracks. I'll do as 88FordF-150 suggest and do a valve job while I'm at it. I agree that the coolant on the pistons was probably from the heads. I was suprised that there was so much of it remaining in the heads after I drained the coolant system.
You dont really have to disassemble the heads when you send them to get checked, but if your doin the valve job then it doesnt matter plus you will have the valves, springs, seats, guides yada yada right in front of you.
I meant to say in my last post that you will have all the old parts in front of you to match up to your new parts you will be installing, so you can make sure there right.
I'll be calling the machine shop tomorrow. Its been a killer at work the last few days. I'll let you know what they have to say about doing the valve job, cleaning, and inspecting the heads.
Nothing yet. Hopefully within the next couple of days. The place I took them to is loaded with work. Other than heavy carbon build up on the heads, valves, and valve guides, nothing looks obviously wrong. So, if the machine shop tells me the heads are good, then I'll start throwing the thing back together.
The machine shop is going to zyglo the heads in the morning. They're going to do the valves also. In the mean time, I've having loads of fun cleaning the block and top of the pistons. I don't think I've bent in this many directions since I was an embryo.
Dont sand the block to much, just get er clean. Yea with the design of the position of the motor that job your doin is a bear. Think of it this way, your doin one of the hardest jobs one could do to that truck, so if you can do this, you can do anything else on the truck!! Lol might have to get aftermarket headers for it, have the heads done up, get the supercharger for it, haha ya kno while your in there lol..
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