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Water Pump Problems?

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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #106  
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The bolt through the harmonic balancer (crank pulley), spins out just like any other bolt (counter clockwise is loosing it). You will need an impact gun though to to get it out, because if you try to use a racket you will just turn the motor over. O and about the beer thing, there isnt a soul on this site who hasent drank before there 21st birthday, if they say that didnt drink before they were 21 is tellin fibs. I wish i was from your time, you guys had it easy workin on cars!!! lol.. j/k
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by 88FordF-150
The bolt through the harmonic balancer (crank pulley), spins out just like any other bolt (counter clockwise is loosing it). You will need an impact gun though to to get it out, because if you try to use a racket you will just turn the motor over. O and about the beer thing, there isnt a soul on this site who hasent drank before there 21st birthday, if they say that didnt drink before they were 21 is tellin fibs. I wish i was from your time, you guys had it easy workin on cars!!! lol.. j/k
You know, he's got a point there about the drinking thing
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by madsonp
You know, he's got a point there about the drinking thing
My point proven^^^ lol...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 08:06 PM
  #109  
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Another trick to remove the bolt in the harmonic balancer is to remove the rubber access plug on the side oposite the starter and put a deep well socket on one of the bolts that holds the torque converter to the flex plate. This will allow you to break that bolt lose and tighten it up without using a impact wrench. Just remember to remove the socket and reinstall the plug when you are done.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #110  
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I ran out of day light so I'll tackle the crank shaft pulley tomorrow. I'm going to try going into the inspection plate and see if I can lock down the torque converter. I don't want to risk moving the crank shaft off of TDC.

And yes 88FordF-150, I did my share of sneaking the brews before my 18th. And its only by the grace of God that I made it through those years!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:44 PM
  #111  
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Lol yea its more fun when your "not allowed" lol..
 
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 05:29 PM
  #112  
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Did it get the better of you or are you doing ok ?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #113  
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I've been having to work late all week. I just finished pulling the timing chain cover off. I also pulled the water pump and the impeller looks good. 88FordF-150's suggestion about using an air hammer to remove the crankshaft pulley nut worked great. I used a strap clamp to secure the pulley and zip! It didn't budge from TDC. Now I'm sitting here staring at these chains and trying to understand what the manual is saying about removing them.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 03:33 PM
  #114  
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Should have a tensioner along the chain, loosen the tensioner and it will loosen up. When the tensioner turns when the bolt is loose, it will give slack because it is oblong (sp?). Then the chain will slide off. (p.s. feel free to award some rep points at any time LOL)
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 05:19 PM
  #115  
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Once I get the chain off, do I need to secure the cams before removing the heads?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #116  
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You could remove them, you have timing marks to realign them.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #117  
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If the heads need to be ground flat, I'll have to pull the guts out of them anyway. Any special tools I'll need to time the cams and crankshaft?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 09:58 AM
  #118  
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Do you have a separate radiator cap, or is it just the one on the overflow tank? If you have a radiator cap on the radiator itself, then remove the cap, start the engine, and keep it running until it warms up. Do this outside, because you might get some fluid overflow from the radiator. Have some water ready to add. When the tstat opens the level will drop. This should get all the air out. Also you will be able to see the water movement when the tstat opens. Do you see any water leakage at the back of the motor? Also, if you have a separate radiator cap, you might want to change it out. Cheers


Tommy
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 09:45 PM
  #119  
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Tommyleea, I'm a bit past the bleeding air out of the coolant system. In fact, I just finished pulling both heads off. When I broke the seal between the heads and the block, about a half gallon of coolant leaked out. When I got the heads completely off, I found that nearly all the pistons were submerged in coolant. So, are the heads cracked, were the gaskets blown, or is the block cracked?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 12:20 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by sbclemens
Tommyleea, I'm a bit past the bleeding air out of the coolant system. In fact, I just finished pulling both heads off. When I broke the seal between the heads and the block, about a half gallon of coolant leaked out. When I got the heads completely off, I found that nearly all the pistons were submerged in coolant. So, are the heads cracked, were the gaskets blown, or is the block cracked?
It would be my guess that the coolant on your pistons came out of the heads when you pulled them off, so I wouldn't think your block is cracked. I'm still suspecting the head gasket myself. Are you going to take the heads in and have them checked ?
 
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