Water Pump Problems?
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From: Baltimore, MD
I tried the running the truck with the overflow cap off and it did take some water but I still think there is air in the system. the head blows great at highway speeds but anything under 1500 RPM and it is cool at best.
I was told there may be some sort of bleeder valve or stem kinda like a home radiator heating system around the thermostat. Can anyone confirm or deny?
I was told there may be some sort of bleeder valve or stem kinda like a home radiator heating system around the thermostat. Can anyone confirm or deny?
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Originally Posted by madsonp
Did you get your compression test done ? 
How accurate will the compression test be on a realitively cold engine? If the test fails, is there something else I can look for to distinguish between a bad gasket or a bad head? If its the head, the kids better hide their piggy banks.
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From: Billings, Montana
Originally Posted by sbclemens
Two of the kids are down with the flu. It will have to wait until Friday after work. About having the coolant tested, At the time of the over heating, I drained and flushed the system and refilled with a couple of jugs of Super Flush and distilled water. I'm not sure what's in that stuff (I'll have to look at the MSDS) but if its hydrocarbon based, it wouldn't make sense to have it tested. I'm not sure who around here could even do the test.
How accurate will the compression test be on a realitively cold engine? If the test fails, is there something else I can look for to distinguish between a bad gasket or a bad head? If its the head, the kids better hide their piggy banks.
How accurate will the compression test be on a realitively cold engine? If the test fails, is there something else I can look for to distinguish between a bad gasket or a bad head? If its the head, the kids better hide their piggy banks.
Last edited by madsonp; Feb 7, 2008 at 09:30 PM.
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From: Billings, Montana
Originally Posted by BigDASH
I tried the running the truck with the overflow cap off and it did take some water but I still think there is air in the system. the head blows great at highway speeds but anything under 1500 RPM and it is cool at best.
I was told there may be some sort of bleeder valve or stem kinda like a home radiator heating system around the thermostat. Can anyone confirm or deny?
I was told there may be some sort of bleeder valve or stem kinda like a home radiator heating system around the thermostat. Can anyone confirm or deny?
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Originally Posted by sbclemens
I checked the Super Flush MSDS; no hydrocarbons. It looks like I could get the same effect by squeezing oranges (and a pinch of salt to taste) into the resevoir.
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Originally Posted by 88FordF-150
... The reason to test for HC's in the resovour(sp?) is to see if exhaust gases are present in the antifreeze, meanin bad head gaskets. ..
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
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[QUOTE=BigDASH]I tried the running the truck with the overflow cap off and it did take some water but I still think there is air in the system. the head blows great at highway speeds but anything under 1500 RPM and it is cool at best.
Becareful. This is the same thing that happened to me when I did my first coolant change a few years ago. The air takes a while to work itself out so keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few weeks. Carry some coolant/water with you when you drive. Stop the expy as soon as you feel the temperature of the heater drop. This is a sign your coolant is dangerously low. The temperature gauge will probably still read in the normal zone. My problem is that I drove for days and weeks like this because I don't usually have the heater running here in the desert. So now I'm paying for the abuse I caused.
Becareful. This is the same thing that happened to me when I did my first coolant change a few years ago. The air takes a while to work itself out so keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few weeks. Carry some coolant/water with you when you drive. Stop the expy as soon as you feel the temperature of the heater drop. This is a sign your coolant is dangerously low. The temperature gauge will probably still read in the normal zone. My problem is that I drove for days and weeks like this because I don't usually have the heater running here in the desert. So now I'm paying for the abuse I caused.
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From: Billings, Montana
Originally Posted by sbclemens
I'll collect a sample of the coolant. I take it the local parts store won't have the facilities to test it. I'm not sure who would be able to test the fluid any ideas? After running the engine with the resevoir cap on, there is a lot of foam present. I though the foam was caused by an air leak but it could as well be caused by the exhaust entering the coolant system.
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
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From: Billings, Montana
Originally Posted by sbclemens
I'll collect a sample of the coolant. I take it the local parts store won't have the facilities to test it. I'm not sure who would be able to test the fluid any ideas? After running the engine with the resevoir cap on, there is a lot of foam present. I though the foam was caused by an air leak but it could as well be caused by the exhaust entering the coolant system.
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
Last edited by madsonp; Feb 8, 2008 at 12:27 AM.
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by sbclemens
I'll collect a sample of the coolant. I take it the local parts store won't have the facilities to test it. I'm not sure who would be able to test the fluid any ideas? After running the engine with the resevoir cap on, there is a lot of foam present. I though the foam was caused by an air leak but it could as well be caused by the exhaust entering the coolant system.
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?