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I got the exhaust manifold off tonight without breaking anything. Except for the #1 exhaust port, the rest were dry. Right now (while doing the laundry, making dinner, and doing the kids homework for them) I'm trying to understand the remaining head removal procedure written up in the Haynes. Any clarity would help.
I started a new thread since the waterpump wasn't the problem. The thread is "Removing Heads". Anyway, I've got the right valve cover off, the right exhaust manifold off, wiring, and the intake manifold. I'm looking at the timing cover and wondering what special tools I'm going to need. Since I'm going to pull both heads and have them reworked, do I still need to lock the cams and crankshaft?
No you dont "have to, thats if your just changing your timing belt. When you remove the heads and send them away the cams will be turned and such. Whenever you put the heads back on, you will need to line them up with your timing marks, and turn your crank to so and so BTDC with number one cylinder being at the top. Not to hard to do, then turn the crank a few times manually till number one cylinder is back at the top and make sure the timing marks are still lined up.
Id like to say the same but im only 20 years OLD!!! lol but times have changed between those motors and these ones, there are so many computer controlled systems on cars today that many people open the hood and get nervous lol.. They have the same concepts thought just to many electric and computer systems. I wish the engine bays on our vehicle were as simple as they were 20-30 years ago!!
You must be joking! The valve covers are off, the exhaust manifold is off, and I'm hoping to get the timing chain cover off today. The right valve cover had signs of coolantant leaking at the #1 and 3 cyclinder. The left cover looks clean. Are there any special tools I need to remove the timing chains? Since I'm going to have both heads resurfaced, I don't have to worry about locking them down....or do I?
I'm still hung up on the fan clutch nut. The manual says its left hand thread but others have been saying its right hand. Any ideas? Maybe that 20 year old knows; that is if they still teach your right hand from your left in school.
If your standin in front of the truck lookin down on the nut, it turns to your left. If you dont the the tool to hold the bolts on the waterpump to keep it from turning, have someone put pressure on the belt tensioner and that should hold the the pulley enough so you can get the nut loose. Give your wrench a few easy wacks while its on the nut, that will help deslodge the corrosion and stuff thats on the threads. Should be good to go with that info... Any YES they taught us left from right in school, even though ive been gradamatated for OVER 2 years lol...
Ok, so counter clockwise. Like I had said, the Haynes and Ford manual said it was left hand thread. But the CD doesn't mention it so the default would be right hand. Why do I think I'm going to be searching through the salvage yards for a used fan clutch??? By the way, my three "assistants" are worried about breaking their nails.
Nah them fans come off pretty easy, you should be ok. Like i said give the wrench a few taps with a hammer while your wrench is on the nut, that will shock the nut and break her loose. As far as assistance, call a buddy and offer him a few beers on a saturday and pick at it, should be ok.
You must be joking! The valve covers are off, the exhaust manifold is off, and I'm hoping to get the timing chain cover off today. The right valve cover had signs of coolantant leaking at the #1 and 3 cyclinder. The left cover looks clean. Are there any special tools I need to remove the timing chains? Since I'm going to have both heads resurfaced, I don't have to worry about locking them down....or do I?
Yes, I was joking, and no, the goofer didn't get me. I like you don't have much experiance with newer OVHD cam engines as far as the specifics of pulling them, so I won't be much help from this point on. 88FordF-150 who obviously know more about the tricks on pulling these particular heads will be more help to you than I could be. I like you are more experianced with vehicles from the old days when you could pull the heads and have them back on and the car running in a couple of hours. That was back in the days you could still see the engine. I still have a few of those vehicles around, and have pulled the engines on all of them and many others (67 firebird, 78 ford van, and the easiest most basic one to work on is the 42 ford 9N tractor) That old tractor I can pull the engine, tear it apart, put it back together, and reinstall the engine all in a day. I wish they were all that simple. At least you have the weather for doing it. I'll keep checking in on your progress, and I might go and have a beer because for a couple of reasons, 1. because you're to busy to have one and 2. because I'm of age (and then some) and can legally drink.
Yup, this is my first OHC. The fan is finally off. I only took six hours. I'm glad 88FordF-150 cleared up that one minor issue on the manuals being wrong about the fan nut threading. Now, on to the crankshaft pulley. Is this another one that if you live south of the equator, it's dark out, and its the third Tuesday of the month, that you spin it counter clockwise to remove it?
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