When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ahh, yes! Yet another example of the 'wisdom' of sucking seafoam through a vacuum line directly into the crankcase. The solvent probably dislodged something and slammed it directly into the O2 sensor ... IMO, running seafoam in your crankcase is like pulling the oil drain plug with the engine running. You might want to change your oil with a Ford recommended grade, perhaps the 5W-20, and do it like yesterday.
I also poored the remainder of the Seafoam into the crankcase then ran the engine for 500 miles. When I changed the oil, a lot of the engine gunk came out with it. I don't feel that the Seafoam killed my O2 sensor. The sensor was already weaken by the problem I may have with the head and/or gasket. If it was the Seafoam, I would have lost the left bank sensor also.
I'll collect a sample of the coolant. I take it the local parts store won't have the facilities to test it. I'm not sure who would be able to test the fluid any ideas? After running the engine with the resevoir cap on, there is a lot of foam present. I though the foam was caused by an air leak but it could as well be caused by the exhaust entering the coolant system.
The O2 sensor is the front one on the driver's side. The problem started when I ran Seafoam through the vacuum line to see if that would clear up the hesitation I was experiencing. The code was/is P0133 which is a slow sensor. But, it would reset itself after driving awhile and stay off for a couple of days. Now that the head or head gasket seems a likely candidate along with the loss of coolant, it seems likely that the hesitation is due to coolant getting into the combustion chamber and causing poor ignition. So that would cause unburned fuel/coolant to posion the O2 sensor. Make sense? Or am I reaching?
As far as getting the antifreeze tested, call around to some repair shops. I know when a neighbor of mine needed it done it seemed that all the shops around here could do it.
I also poored the remainder of the Seafoam into the crankcase then ran the engine for 500 miles. When I changed the oil, a lot of the engine gunk came out with it. I don't feel that the Seafoam killed my O2 sensor. The sensor was already weaken by the problem I may have with the head and/or gasket. If it was the Seafoam, I would have lost the left bank sensor also.
You ran the engine for 500 miles with an engine oil dilution product in it? Is that correct?
Guys, NEVER , NEVER put Cardboard in front of a radiator to achieve faster warmup. The surface area of the cardboard could create enough force when driving at 30-60 mph to break solder joints between the radiator and mounting brackets and cause the radiator to be pushed into the cooling fan. This happened to me when I was about 16 years old with my first car. I lucked out and found a good used radiator for $20. I am in my 50's today and I will never forget the sound of the radiator hitting the fan. As soon as I heard that sound I knew exactly whatt the problem was.
Guys, NEVER , NEVER put Cardboard in front of a radiator to achieve faster warmup. The surface area of the cardboard could create enough force when driving at 30-60 mph to break solder joints between the radiator and mounting brackets and cause the radiator to be pushed into the cooling fan. This happened to me when I was about 16 years old with my first car. I lucked out and found a good used radiator for $20. I am in my 50's today and I will never forget the sound of the radiator hitting the fan. As soon as I heard that sound I knew exactly whatt the problem was.
Your radiator mounting bracket could have been weak from some other cause to begin with, and besides that radiators now days are built quite a bit different mounting wise. Here in Montana where winter temps can get down to -40 degs this isn't done to achive a faster warm up, it's done to just flat out maintain a normal operating temperature of the engine. Without doing this the engine would never get up to operating temperatures when it's that cold out. This is something that's always been done here by a large amount of people in the state. Living here my whole life including 35 years of driving, I've never, nor have I ever heard of anyone having the problem you've had.
I finally got done with the compression test (I hate the #7 COP bolt):
Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Pressure 177 197 195 202 210 200 200 200
Plugs were all dry. Still think its the head/gaskets?
Cylinder 1 @ 177 looks a bit suspicious, and if I remember correctly cylinders 1-4 are drivers side, doesn't that coincide with your O2 sensor ? I tend to agree that it's probably the head gasket, as a cracked head would be a pretty rare occurance.
Normally with a bad head gasket you will find low compression between two cylinders that are side by side. Are you sure that all these comp. tests are acurate?
Cylinder 1 @ 177 looks a bit suspicious, and if I remember correctly cylinders 1-4 are drivers side, doesn't that coincide with your O2 sensor ? I tend to agree that it's probably the head gasket, as a cracked head would be a pretty rare occurance.
That's probably the cylinder that took a direct shot of seafoam, probably loosened up those rings by diluting the oil. Maybe it loosened up the crank and piston head bearing surfaces, too. Diluting the oil and running it will do that to an engine. Seafoam in a lawn mower engine, maybe; but in the crankcase of a vehicle engine?
Normally with a bad head gasket you will find low compression between two cylinders that are side by side. Are you sure that all these comp. tests are acurate?
I'll find out how accurate the tests are by repeating them this morning. Remember that the test was done on a cold engine. The #1 cyclinder and O2 sensor are on the passenger side.
Maybe what you could do is while you have the plug out of the #1 cylinder, try to pressure up the cooling system and see if you show any signs of coolant.
To see if there's different compression test results, I'm going to reinstall the plugs and COPs and let the engine heat up. Then pull the COPs and plugs as fast as I can and redo the compression test. After that, I'll check the coolant pressure again.
To see if there's different compression test results, I'm going to reinstall the plugs and COPs and let the engine heat up. Then pull the COPs and plugs as fast as I can and redo the compression test. After that, I'll check the coolant pressure again.
Your going to be pretty good at doing that when alls said and done, do you want to change mine out while your at it.
I mean you dont have to let the truck warm up then "run" to the cylinder and hurry up for the compression check, just make sure the engines hot. After you get your reading, watch the gauge for a few minutes and see if you see any leakdown (the gauge drops).
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.