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Thanks for the drawing. I haven't found an exhaust shop that has tooling or steel pipe at 1 1/4" OD, but I did find some aluminum electrical conduit at that size. I also found a guy at a motorcycle frame fabricator who can work with that size material;. He bent me up 2 pieces by eyeballing it, and I will check those against your drawing. If I find a steel pipe fabricator with the right material and tooling I will probably have them redone according to your drawing.
i would recommend that you find someone with a mandrel bender so the pipe doesn’t get necked down on the curves reducing the flow of coolant. I can recommend someone if you cannot find anyone locally.
Hi Guys I don't know if anyone is working in a home garage and is tired of the dust from sanding but I had an idea and went with it , I took wood lathe and 6mil polly, and some EMT (electrical conduit) rolled the lathe and the other side rolled the EMT and duct tape to make a tent that rolls up and down to keep the dust and paint fumes down to a minimum
The Offenhauser intakes, DP and C, have a thicker flange than does a Hedman header. So that the bolts would tighten both evenly I simply took the oem thick washers and ground down one side to compensate. However, I found that the Clifford intake is the same thickness as the Clifford header flange. You don't need to grand the oem washers to get even torque. But the fitment is poor. There are wide gaps between the two flanges that the oem large washers can't span. I had to back up the oem washers with a large fender washer, grade 8, and drill the hole to match the fastener. I also put a bead of the red, high temp gasket maker around each exhaust port to keep it sealed.
Studs prevent loosening. I used 1.75" grade 8 studs, 3/8 18 into the head, 3/8 24 outside, along with grade 8 crimp nuts and washers. Hillco dot com has them. Ten years running with a Hedman header, studs and the high temp gasket sealer, and never a leak. Tighten half the torque, from the center out in a spiral. Repeat to full torque. Heat to running temp, then retorque, repeat once more and forget about them.
A little bit of grease around the inside of a heater or radiator hose will make it slide on easier. I've used this trick to put the wrong size hose over the too big of a fitting. It works!!
in my teens, in the 60s, I was taught to use spray paint in the inside of the hose. It would allow it to slip on but then the paint dries and forms a good seal.
I have been having trouble for some time with a stumble coming off idle, a no-start cold or hot without holding the choke closed and a higher than normal idle like a vacuum leak. I have replaced the head gaskets and the intake gasket, removed & plugged all the vacuum lines at the source and replaced the carb gasket. The Holley 4160 390 cfm 4 bbl carb was new in 2014 and the truck has been driven less that 100 miles since then. Finally on the advice of a friend I started looking at the accelerator pump. The diaphragm seemed to be n tact but ir was hard and did not flex much. I called Holley because I was having trouble finding the right part number to order. They were most helpful and gave me the number for the stock diaphragm (135-5). I had seen on Amazon a green diaphragm that was alcohol resistant. I asked the Holley tech about that as I know most gas contains 10% alcohol these day (written right there on the pump). He immediately gave me the part number 135-10 that he said would work great. And it does. That got rid of all the problems mentioned above. Cold and hot starts are immediate. Hope this helps someone else. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is an interesting way to clean cylinder heads. (Go to the 3:44 min mark).
(Admins: for some reason the FTE website is wiping out the start at location on Youtube )
Interesting, although very labor intensive. It appears it works well for exposed surfaces but falls short on any place not readily visible.
I'm not sure about that Ray. They seem to have different patterns. About the 6:17 min mark they were going down inside a port on the head with a round pattern. It would appear to be less damaging than a scraper on aluminum heads.
Here's one I use regularly: If you use the triangular welding magnets they soon look like they are growing hair, picking up all the steel shavings and filings around the shop like a... well, magnet. I've found that brushing them with my stainless steel wire welding brush will clean them up in a moment or two without a fuss.
Or... just wrap them in paper before using them. When you've finished welding, remove magnet and paper, stand over scrap barrel, and remove the paper from around the magnet. Shavings fall into the barrel and the magnet stays clean. Used to do the same thing with a telescoping magnet wrapped in paper to check for metal shavings in oil filters.
Or... just wrap them in paper before using them. When you've finished welding, remove magnet and paper, stand over scrap barrel, and remove the paper from around the magnet. Shavings fall into the barrel and the magnet stays clean. Used to do the same thing with a telescoping magnet wrapped in paper to check for metal shavings in oil filters.
I think zip lock baggies work even better than paper bags.
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