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well looked on the google machine and it brought me back to a post on here lol allin key now to get the hinge pins out doors are off and to the panel beaters
Are the '56 tail lights and '49 tail lights interchangable?
I really prefer the shield styled one to the little round nubbin things from the first gen. The brackets look nearly identical outside of a small kink at the bottom, which doesn't appear to affect the bolt spacing.
My middle son works in the restoration department at the Detroit Institute of Art and they were sharing secrets with the folks from the Smithsonian Institute. The Smithsonian folks recommended a product that I had not heard of before. Superzilla. Apparently it is all natural and is easier on painted surfaces than products like Goo be Gone. At the same time it does a great job of removing rust and corrosion while leaving a lubricating film. This is from their website Superzilla:
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Superzilla is superior as a Penetrating Oil, a Cleaner and as a Lubricant and here’s why:As a PENETRATING OIL it is the best in the WORLD! Superzilla has natural capillary action since it’s made from plants. Superzilla will literally walk through a rusted nut and come out an inch on the other side. While it’s doing this, it is removing rust and lubricating the mechanisms so the bolt is easily removed. . It also frees up seized engines and gets into places nothing else will!.
I just ordered some from Amazon (cheaper than some). I'll let you know how it works.
My wife's cousin JB, who works at Interiors by Shannon, contacted me the other day about making him a dimpling punch and die for installing door panel fasteners..
There's always room for improvement, so I thought I'd add a flat to one side of the lower die so it could be clamped in a vise for more stability. A short piece of V-block was installed in the Aloris tool holder and viola! We have a Southbend Milling Machine!
The alignment pin was added to the bottom die to help keep the panel aligned during the punching process, a 1/4" hole will be added to the panel where fasteners are needed.
My wife's cousin JB, who works at Interiors by Shannon, contacted me the other day about making him a dimpling punch and die for installing door panel fasteners..
I have added blue silicone hoses with Gates Power Grip hose clamps. I got them from Speedway Motors as they seem to have the better price. IMHO they give a nice clean look at a much cheaper price than braided steel.
I cut the lower 1.75" hoses to 8" and the upper 1.25" hoses at 3" pipe-to-thermostat housing and 6" pipe-to-radiator. I uses my band saw to cut the hoses. These lengths are a little different than what the parts book calls out but those lengths seemed too short.
I never did find a length specified for the lower hoses. 8" works fine on my truck.
I am still looking for the pipes you show between the blue hoses. I have a '53 F100, which has the old 8BA flathead in the (then) new '53 - '56 chassis. No repo parts seem to be made. Any idea where I can get them? Thanks.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I don't need the blue hose, I need the formed steel pipe that goes between the hose on the top of the radiator and the hose on the thermostat housing on the block. It is red on the picture. It is unique to the '53 because of combining the old flathead with the new for '53 chassis.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I don't need the blue hose, I need the formed steel pipe that goes between the hose on the top of the radiator and the hose on the thermostat housing on the block. It is red on the picture. It is unique to the '53 because of combining the old flathead with the new for '53 chassis.
If you want to try and have some made at an exhaust shop, I did a drawing. See below.
The only dimensions that are critical are the 12 5/8" long, 6 7/8" tall, and the overall 90 degrees between the two connections. As long as it clears everything nothing else matters.
If you want to try and have some made at an exhaust shop, I did a drawing. See below.
The only dimensions that are critical are the 12 5/8" long, 6 7/8" tall, and the overall 90 degrees between the two connections. As long as it clears everything nothing else matters.
Thanks for the drawing. I haven't found an exhaust shop that has tooling or steel pipe at 1 1/4" OD, but I did find some aluminum electrical conduit at that size. I also found a guy at a motorcycle frame fabricator who can work with that size material;. He bent me up 2 pieces by eyeballing it, and I will check those against your drawing. If I find a steel pipe fabricator with the right material and tooling I will probably have them redone according to your drawing.
Abe here! I was selling the radiator pipe for a Yblock. I bought an NOS pipe on eBay and I thought it was better to use it as a template to make more pipes for us Yblock guys. A local radiator shop bent the pipe for me. It looks like the flathead pipes are smaller OD than what I used. I remember seeing them for sell on eBay and on Dennis Carpenters website.
Abe here! I was selling the radiator pipe for a Yblock. I bought an NOS pipe on eBay and I thought it was better to use it as a template to make more pipes for us Yblock guys. A local radiator shop bent the pipe for me. It looks like the flathead pipes are smaller OD than what I used. I remember seeing them for sell on eBay and on Dennis Carpenters website.
Hi Abe. Thanks for responding. I have had some replacements fabricated out of aluminum conduit but I still hope to get back to OEM style if possible. The small OD is something no shop I have found had neither material nor tooling for. As far as I have found, no one makes repo's for the '53 because of the unique combination of the old flathead V8 and the 'new' chassis. This will not slow my build, just something that bugs me. And I have to comment that the number of folks wanting to help on this forum is really impressive. There is a true wealth of knowledge here.
New snake oil
