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Hope the connections don't blow apart under pressure, silicone and glass are slippery when wet, and antifreeze is a good lubricant for both.
When I worked in a chem lab we had a glassblower that worked there that would make special glassware for us. Pyrex tubing can't be bent by hand, soft soda glass (what most glassblowers use) would be quite fragile. You know you can buy clear PVC pipe and fittings?
That's the route I was thinking of going but after talking to the owner of that rat rod, he mentioned that he started with PVC but it cracked around the clamp points. So he went with heavy wall Pyrex and it's held up fine so far.
Yes, I would be concerned about any clear polymer-baser product (no filler) with the continual heating and cooling. But glass ??? . It would handle the changes in temp better but I'd be afraid that I would hit it with a wrench. Of course there are new advances in polymers every day.
Yes, I would be concerned about any clear polymer-baser product (no filler) with the continual heating and cooling. But glass ??? . It would handle the changes in temp better but I'd be afraid that I would hit it with a wrench. Of course there are new advances in polymers every day.
It certainly looks cool though.
The glass is 4mm thick so it's pretty tough. Some car magazine tested the Killerglass version, which is also 4mm, by throwing it against the shop wall and it didn't break. So, we'll see I guess. I didn't get mine from Killerglass, I went the cheaper route and got mine through a glasswork site, but it's pretty much the same thing.
The glass pipes are pretty cool looking. I'm not sure I could handle the pressure though.
I mean, sure they look great when everything is new and clean, what about in a few years when you no longer have nice pristine green antifreeze? Lets be realistic, the majority of cooling systems out there are pretty grungy. I have a hard enough time keeping the exterior of the truck clean let alone having to worry that someone will be able to see into my cooling system at my dirty little secret....LOL
Have you ever transplanted a 48-50 dash from one cab to another ??
Is there any tricks, tips, or short cuts ??
I was going to cut vertically between the gauges and the door jamb a straight line to start ?? and make the long cut where the weld would be under the windshield rubber out front. Is this a good idea or is there an easier way ??
Do you know where any info might be found on the best way to do this ?? (hack saw, plasma cutter, cutoff wheel, etc) ???
The best way to do this depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The dash is structural, the more you cut out, the more chance the cab will distort, and the more difficult the process becomes. The best bet is to remove as little as possible. If you have a cab that needs the entire dash replaced, you might be better off swapping the entire cab.
If you need to replace the front skin, from the roll down (because it was cut up or ?) you could likely do that successfully relatively easily, if you need to replace from the face to the windshield that will be a lot more difficult. If you have that many cabs, cut up the worst and see just what you are dealing with, just remember every brace and flange is important/critical.
Just to understand where you are coming from, how much body work/rust repair/ sheetmetal welding experience do you have? Adequate shop space, equipment?
There's a hollow head set screw that holds the door lock in. It's behind the rubber door seal. Its sometimes a beast to get out. Soak it good with penetrating oil.