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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Hope the connections don't blow apart under pressure, silicone and glass are slippery when wet, and antifreeze is a good lubricant for both.
When I worked in a chem lab we had a glassblower that worked there that would make special glassware for us. Pyrex tubing can't be bent by hand, soft soda glass (what most glassblowers use) would be quite fragile. You know you can buy clear PVC pipe and fittings?

That's the route I was thinking of going but after talking to the owner of that rat rod, he mentioned that he started with PVC but it cracked around the clamp points. So he went with heavy wall Pyrex and it's held up fine so far.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 11:35 PM
  #362  
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Yes, I would be concerned about any clear polymer-baser product (no filler) with the continual heating and cooling. But glass ??? . It would handle the changes in temp better but I'd be afraid that I would hit it with a wrench. Of course there are new advances in polymers every day.

It certainly looks cool though.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 11:51 PM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by petemcl
Yes, I would be concerned about any clear polymer-baser product (no filler) with the continual heating and cooling. But glass ??? . It would handle the changes in temp better but I'd be afraid that I would hit it with a wrench. Of course there are new advances in polymers every day.

It certainly looks cool though.
The glass is 4mm thick so it's pretty tough. Some car magazine tested the Killerglass version, which is also 4mm, by throwing it against the shop wall and it didn't break. So, we'll see I guess. I didn't get mine from Killerglass, I went the cheaper route and got mine through a glasswork site, but it's pretty much the same thing.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 07:50 AM
  #364  
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The glass pipes are pretty cool looking. I'm not sure I could handle the pressure though.
I mean, sure they look great when everything is new and clean, what about in a few years when you no longer have nice pristine green antifreeze? Lets be realistic, the majority of cooling systems out there are pretty grungy. I have a hard enough time keeping the exterior of the truck clean let alone having to worry that someone will be able to see into my cooling system at my dirty little secret....LOL

Bobby
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #365  
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LOL on using that on the intercooler piping... Like you're going to see.... AIR... moving thru it!

Yeah, Bobby, I'm sure those guys are running all-aluminum systems. On a flathead you'd probably see chunks flowing by...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:41 PM
  #366  
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48-50 Ford truck dash replacement

Have you ever transplanted a 48-50 dash from one cab to another ??

Is there any tricks, tips, or short cuts ??

I was going to cut vertically between the gauges and the door jamb a straight line to start ?? and make the long cut where the weld would be under the windshield rubber out front. Is this a good idea or is there an easier way ??

Do you know where any info might be found on the best way to do this ?? (hack saw, plasma cutter, cutoff wheel, etc) ???

Thanks for your help.

Brad
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:20 PM
  #367  
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The best way to do this depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The dash is structural, the more you cut out, the more chance the cab will distort, and the more difficult the process becomes. The best bet is to remove as little as possible. If you have a cab that needs the entire dash replaced, you might be better off swapping the entire cab.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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I have acquired 3 cabs now trying to get a good one. Guess I will look for #4
Thanks for your input.
Brad
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #369  
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I have acquired 3 cabs now trying to get a good one. Guess I will look for #4
Thanks for your input.
Brad
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #370  
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...................
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #371  
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If you need to replace the front skin, from the roll down (because it was cut up or ?) you could likely do that successfully relatively easily, if you need to replace from the face to the windshield that will be a lot more difficult. If you have that many cabs, cut up the worst and see just what you are dealing with, just remember every brace and flange is important/critical.
Just to understand where you are coming from, how much body work/rust repair/ sheetmetal welding experience do you have? Adequate shop space, equipment?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 02:51 PM
  #372  
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needs help to dismantle a doorlock in 1951 F3, passenger side, how do i do, can't see anything is there a tool thanks
 
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 03:37 PM
  #373  
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There's a hollow head set screw that holds the door lock in. It's behind the rubber door seal. Its sometimes a beast to get out. Soak it good with penetrating oil.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #374  
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thanks a lot i try that tomorrow, i have to make new door keys, they are missing cylinder must go out. Hans J Grundtvig
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 10:49 PM
  #375  
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Holding on to a nut and washer in a tight spot.

If you are not able to get two fingers on the nut and washer use contact cement to stick the nut to your finger and the washer to the nut.
 
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