Cool Tips and tricks
New User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Defrost Vents on 48 - 52's
I was finally piping defrost hoses up to the vents in my dash when I discovered I only had the "cup" for one side. Unable to locate another one readily, I decided to improvise, destroying a perfectly good floor-hose end attachment from my shop vac. I had to use a hacksaw and rotate the neck on it so it pointed the other direction, but now the defrost hose doesn't interfere with the wiper linkage! I started by taping it to the underside of the dash to pre-drill some holes, ran some sheet metal screws in it, drew'er up and attached the defrost hose! I may end up doing this to the other vent just to get the hose away from the wiper linkage! I know it sounds trashy but it works like a champ!
*side note: since the defrost hose is such an odd diameter to find in a material flexible enough to route the way you want it, and without having to order it, I found "carburetor/air cleaner" aluminum hose @ Autozone to work perfectly. $6 for each and you're done.
-Toby
*side note: since the defrost hose is such an odd diameter to find in a material flexible enough to route the way you want it, and without having to order it, I found "carburetor/air cleaner" aluminum hose @ Autozone to work perfectly. $6 for each and you're done.
-Toby
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 97,524
Likes: 2,001
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posts moved to 48/56 truck forum.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
Hillbilly Parts Washer
50 gallon drum, 40 gallons of water, a small box of "TSP" and a gallon of PineSol. Dirt and poorly-adhered paint don't stand a chance. I heated it with two of my home made blacksmith's propane burners. 
This is a test of my ability to post pictures as well.
This is a test of my ability to post pictures as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 6
From: Moore (or less), OK.
I don't know if this has been posted before but I used an old ac condenser between my compressor pump and tank as an intercooler to try to lessen the among of condensation in the tank. It works fine keeping the air cooled that is going into the tank.
I had some hoses made with compression fittings in one end and -6 & -8 fittings on the other ends to accommodate attaching the condenser.
I attached the condenser to the belt guard in front of the fan built into the compressor flywheel to optimize air flow.
I had some hoses made with compression fittings in one end and -6 & -8 fittings on the other ends to accommodate attaching the condenser.
I attached the condenser to the belt guard in front of the fan built into the compressor flywheel to optimize air flow.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 6
From: Moore (or less), OK.
No drain on the condenser. Don't think it needs it because the pressure in the condenser bleeds off when the compressor shuts off. Condensation happens when the tank gets hot and cools. With this setup only cold air goes into tank so much less condensate.
I still have water separating units on the air lines by have been noticing much less water in the tank from the drain on the bottom of it.
I still have water separating units on the air lines by have been noticing much less water in the tank from the drain on the bottom of it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
OK, while it looks neat, I don't see how that lessens the amount of moisture interring the compressor tank. Where does the moisture go? is it in the bottom of the AC condenser? If so, it would appear that sooner or later, there will be so much water in the unit that it will begin to fill up the air tank anyway. Maybe a bung welded unto the bottom like a normal radiator with a drain valve would provide a place to purge the condensed water?
Jag
Jag
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 80
From: Northville, MI
Why not just drain the tank and the condensate trap occasionally? The part of an A/C system that removes water from that sealed system is the receiver/dryer, but even if you added that I don't think that they are designed to remove water from an unsealed system.
Are you having that much of a problem with water? Maybe I'm missing something?
Are you having that much of a problem with water? Maybe I'm missing something?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Condensers are designed for pretty low flows compared to an air compressor's output, it may restrict flow. There are also different types of circuits in them, for this application I believe a serpentine would be best, as water can't hide out in it. You should have a drain pot right after it.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
every time you make the flow turn a corner you create a large restriction in the flow. Try one of those curly retractable water hoses sometime, it cuts the flow rate to less than 1/2. The curly air hoses or roll back hose reels do the same, don't use them where the flow rate is critical, spray painting, high volume air tools, etc.
Also use as short a flexible hose as you can, stretch it out as straight as possible, don't leave it coiled up while using.
Also use as short a flexible hose as you can, stretch it out as straight as possible, don't leave it coiled up while using.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 6
From: Moore (or less), OK.
I do drain the tank manually. The way it was explained to me was the cooler you keep the tank and incoming air the less water it will produce. Condensation comes when the tank gets hot and cools. If the tank stays cool you will get less water from the air. I am looking into putting a desiccant dryer to further inhibit condensation. Just having cold air going into the tank has cut down a lot on the water forming in the bottom of the tank.
The water never gathers in the condensor because the air doesn't stay in it for long, it only passes through. The pressure bleeds off when the compressor turns off so, the trapped air in the condensor exhausts and doesn't have the chance to expel its water. Only the top 2 or 3 runs ever get warm.
I got the idea from a local compressor sales and service store. They tried to sell me an intercooler for $250 and I got this one from a friend for free. It does the same job as the fancy schmancy intercooler.
Ross, that is exactly the condensor I have, a serpentine aluminum unit. Very efficient for my application.
The water never gathers in the condensor because the air doesn't stay in it for long, it only passes through. The pressure bleeds off when the compressor turns off so, the trapped air in the condensor exhausts and doesn't have the chance to expel its water. Only the top 2 or 3 runs ever get warm.
I got the idea from a local compressor sales and service store. They tried to sell me an intercooler for $250 and I got this one from a friend for free. It does the same job as the fancy schmancy intercooler.
Ross, that is exactly the condensor I have, a serpentine aluminum unit. Very efficient for my application.
New User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: North Palm Beach, FL
Hi Truxx56. I love your idea about using clear plastic to make templates for metal pieces. I have used cardboard for a while which worked well for the perimeter but had a hard time placing the holes correctly. This string for sharing tips is a great idea. Cheers Paul52
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Franklin TN
My favorite high tech diagnostic tool
I made a 3 foot long jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I used 14 gauge silicone hookup wire because it is very flexible. I have been trouble shooting the temp sensors on my flathead V8 (8BA) motor. Just jumpered across each wire between the two sensors, and each wire going to the gauge to check continuity, then check the temp gauge to see if any change occurs. Then I grounded the temp gauge to make sure it went all the way to "cold" then took off the jumper and it returned to "Hot" (with the ignition switch on) to verify that the gauge is working.
Sometimes simpler is better.
Sometimes simpler is better.