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I had occasion to replace my rear spring pins and bushings. When I pulled my axle out I was shocked at how worn they were.

We all know the hand Ford dealt us on the Bonus Builts -- no access to the backside of the front pin. You can drill a hole in the crossmember that blocks access, but in my case, even if I did that, my exhaust would prevent me really getting a hammer on it. So...

I did some quick measurements, and found that a 3/8" bolt is real close to the right diameter for a 1/8"-NPT thread (what the zerk fittings use). So I took a 3/8" x 2-1/2" bolt, cut the head off, and tapped (died?) the plain end of the bolt. Tightened it into the zerk hole by double nutting, got it nice and tight. Slipped a 3/4" socket over the bolt, put a washer and nut on it. Tightened the nut and it broke the pin free and extracted it with no drama!

If I were going to do it again, I'd use a plain finish Grade 8 bolt, with fine threads, and possibly use a longer bolt so a deep socket could be used.

 

Had you rethreaded the bolt to 3/8 NPT (pipe thread) it would have fit better and not gummed up the threads in the pin. GOOD solution and tip tho!

 

Not sure what you mean? The zerk hole is 1/8-NPT, which is around 3/8" diameter. There's no way on earth to re-tap those pins, they are hardened steel. I figured the threads in the pin might pull out from the force, but they were undamaged.

 

Wow, what a good day. Checked out my flathead v8 239 . Compression tests showed good compression in all but cyclinders 5&6. Did a ?spash down test by squirting in some oil in each cylinder to see if compression comes up. It did not, stayed at about 50 in 5&6 while rest of cylinders at 105-110. So I guess I have two bad valves. Now the good news,my oil gauge always shows 60-80 and I didn't trust it. So removed the oil sensor and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge (20.00 at o"reillys). Shows great compression at 50psi when warming up, then 40-45 when warm and 25psi at idle. I believe I have a pretty good engine, but need a valve job soon. Engine runs at about 185 F when warmed up.....
The discovery process is half the fun........or is it the backfiring going down hills......

 

I tried this trick Ross. I even found some hardened all-thread so I was able to use a deep socket as you suggested. It worked on one pin but not the rest. I'll bet that works on most trucks but mine has really been abused and came out of Minnesota in the heart of the rust belt. The shackles were worn past the bushings (only half a bushing left) and the shackle body hoies were egg shaped. I was able to get the rear pins out through the hole in the frame but a cross member was in the way on my F-2 so I couldn't drill a hole in the frame in order to get to the front pin. I finally had to drill out the rivets holding the rear mounts in place. Once the mount was removed I could get the pins out.

This of course let me sandblast and repaint everything. But on reassembly I noticed that the 2 new pins that I got from C&G Early have a chamfer on the insertion end (opposite end from the Zerk fitting hole). They went in very easily. 4 of the original pins were OK but they did not have a chamfer and hung up on the inside hole. So I ground a slight chamfer on each and they fit in very easily.

Now the rear end is done and it is on to the front to install the toyota P/S box.

 

I painted my kitchen cabinets this summer. Prior to the repaint, I had to degrease them (especially the tops which had about 20 years of grease and dust). I did an internet search for kitchen degreasers and many users recommended Totally Awesome (in the orange squirt bottle). It's sold at my local Dollar Tree. The stuff cut right through the kitchen grease like it was nothing. So, I bought another bottle for my garage and I've been using it to clean up my engine compartments where it works just as well as the Auto-parts store's engine cleaners in a can.

 

I use Simple Green straight out of the bottle.

 

I've had good luck with Greased Lightning.

I've had engine brackets and other accessories with 30+ years of cooked on gunk come clean down to the bare metal after a few hours soak in the stuff.

Bobby

 

Quite possible you have nothing more than a head gasket leaking between cylinders 5&6.
Agree on the discovery process being the fun part. The downgrade after firing can usually be fixed.

 

No noticeable coolant loss so I figured it had to be a couple of bad exhaust valves in 5&6. I also thought the bad exhaust valves would cause backfiring. Also tried the paperbill trick on the tailpipe exhaust where
you put a paper bill near the end of the exhaust. It should just blow away from the exhaust pipe. If it blows away and comes back( a little bit back n forth), it indicates a burnt valve allowing suction in the exhaust system when its piston is in its downstroke. At least thats how I understand it.

 

No noticeable coolant loss or I figured it had to be a couple of bad exhaust valves. I also thought the bad exhaust valves would cause backfiring. Also tried the paperbill trick on the tailpipe exhaust where
you put a paper bill near the end of the exhaust. It should just blow away from the exhaust pipe. If it blows away and comes back a little bit, it indicates a burnt valve allowing suction in the exhaust system when its piston is in its downstroke. At least thats how I understand it.

 

If you have a vacuum gauge this chart should help (old school high tech):

 

Thanks!!!I'll pick up a vacuum gauge today.....great chart

 

We diagnosed and tuned a LOT of engines at the service station with a vacuum gauge. My boss had one mounted in a plywood console along with a fuel pressure gauge and ammeter with a hook on it so we could hang it under the hood. It was the second thing that went under there right after the drop cord light when doing a tuneup.