There is not much "meat" in the gasket between the valve areas of these engines. No coolant passage there. I've seen more than one leak in this area many years ago when I played with the flatheads. Retorqueing the head may show a change but probably not a permanent fix.

 

I hooked up a vacuum gauge off the vacuum wipers. EZ.
gauge holds steady at 18, if I do a quick punch of throttle it goes 10-22 then back to 18.(if I increase rpms to 2000 or so it increases to 20 then drops back to 18) I do not notice any dropping or floating of needle...well maybe a half a unit at most. According to chart you gave me I believe I show a "normal motor" but I still have 50psi in cylinders 5&6 and good compression 105-115 in the others. So..............am I reading the gauge correctly?

 

These readings are on an engine at normal operating temperature. Make sure that your temp gauge shows that. Remember that these flatheads take a while to warm up.

I'm not sure if your engine has been sitting for a while or not but these ring might just be stuck. Clean oil and regular use might free them up. I would be careful using any "snake oil" (and there are lots out there that make outrageous claims) as you might have unintended consequences using them as most are designed for modern engines.

 

Maybe I can't read the second chart, but I thought it was saying 4-25 was normal when you punch it. I sure expect the vacuum to show something ,considering the compression in 5&6. is low.

 

In your troubleshooting, remember that vacuum drops to near zero at WOT. Sounds to me like you're reading the vacuum gauge right. Why not start a separate thread.

 

I don't think this has been mentioned before:

Frame swaps are almost always impossible and usually end in failure and frustration. Use the original frame and improve upon it. Search for FTE posts about "frame swaps" and read every one of them.

Starting a new post is a very good idea for two reasons, it gets this thread back on point and if you have a separate thread with a topic specific title more people will see it and chime in with more help.

 

Not sure how to start a new thread...look at it later this weekend. thanks.

 

Just go to the main page of the '48-56 board and click on the just above top of the discussion board. A new will pop up and you enter a subject title and below in the box enter your message, just like you did here.

 

Yes, but you only have 2 cylinders with a problem not all 8. And you never reach 25. Do all the other test read normal? Ray is right. This thread is for "Cool Tips & Tricks".

 

For those who have a vehicle that does not get driven for long periods you've probably had the problem where the windshield wipers take a "set" and then jump, skip, and vibrate when you use them after a long dormancy. When I park my seldom used vehicles I place a small block under each wiper arm that keeps pressure off the blade thus preventing it from taking the "set". And if the vehicle is stored outdoors, consider placing a piece of pipe insulation over the blade, keeping the sun off. And RainX works good for these seldom used vehicles.

 

Thanks, good tip. Here in Houston with the hot sun we get, I go through a couple of sets of wiper blades a year on three vehicles. And if I don't use RainX at least one more set.

 

Here if the vehicle is parked outside for a period of time the heat and tree sap "welds" the edge of the blade to the glass, so when you turn them on it rips bits of rubber out of the edge and the blade streaks from then on.

 

Where I grew up in Imperial Valley, it only rains about once a year. So we routinely just removed our wipers and left them in the trunk. You just had to remember to reinstall them if the forcast called for rain. Jag

 

a piece of rubber fuel hose cut to the proper length and slid over the drill bit to control depth.works great and saves trees.

 

I wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit with the end folded back on itself to form a flag. When the flag starts brushing the filings away around the hole I know to stop.