That's an EXCELLENT tip! thanks MP&C.

 

MP&C I'm defiently going to remember that one!

 

Here's a cheap and easy bead breaker I made out of a 2x8:



The box was built with very little clearance of the rim and the gussets were added to be able to cover as much surface of the tire as possible.


I used a piece of heavy steel under the rim (you can see it in the center of the wheel in the bottom picture) to wrap the chain around and then looped it over the port-a-power, you could substitute a floor jack. The wheels I dismounted were very old and glued to the rims and I couldn't beat them off. After I applied maximum pressure the beads popped, a couple took about 30 seconds under pressure but they finally popped. It worked on both sides and took maybe two minutes on each side.

 

I hate it when I can't beat them off.

 

GREAT TIPS. THANKS EVERYBODY.

MIKE

 

I have heard of using a strong vacuum pump and sucking the air out of the tire to break the beads. on a really stuck tire that you don't plan on reusing, a little heat applied to the rim until the bead starts smoking will release the oldest rubber bond.

 

Great thread going on here. I thought about this before also. I had to invent a couple tools at various times or find a picture of something I needed and fab it up. If I can ever figure out how to get pictures into a gallery I'll get them in there.

 

Probably not so new a trick but I will post it anyways. I had rust out above rear wheel wells of my panel truck, after cuting out the rust I had to make a template so I used Masking tape (Over laping each piece)to cover the cut out area. then I cut out the hole using a sharp xacto knife. Usinge the cut out area I have a very good template.

 

Thanks for nice information.........

 

First off, thank you for a very educational thread. Some things I already knew, but I've also learned allot of great stuff.
So here is my contribution.
I was changing out a rear axle by myself, in the dirt (sand). Lowered it out on the jack and drug it out on the jack. Easy enough, but then I had to push the new axle under the truck, by myself in the sand. What to do now?
Well I had some 10" diameter, 10' long pvc pipes for moving storage buildings laying next to the truck. So I put them under the truck inline with the frame and easily slid the axle under the truck and had plenty of room to position the jack under the diff. Easy as pie!

YMMV

 

Another trick I use is for removing the metal particles from my welding magnets. I use silicone caulk from a caulking gun (cheaper than rtv) spread the caulk on the magnet and let it setup, then it peels away cleanly, encapsulating all the particles. Repeat as needed.

YMMV

 

I'm going to try that with my magnets. I usually brush off most of the particles with quick flicks of a stainless steel bristled welding brush. Since SS is non magnetic the particles brush off. It's not perfect, but it's quick.

 

I use low air pressure for removing the metal particles from welding magnets, it`s not as safe nor is it perfect but it is quick.

 

Today I discovered that the rear brake hose for the 49 f1 is exactly the same as the rear brake hose for a 1971 9" rear. And, for those doing an engine upgrade from the original flatty you can have an extra 3 inches of space by placing the rad support on the forward holes. The inner fenders also have corresponding holes to accomodate this.

 

Then you will also need a I-6 hood air deflector if moving the radiator from the V-8 rear ward holes to the I-6 forward holes.