As you said, always people looking. I don't get a chance to read these threads as often as I would like to but I do have some of this information in catalogs. Have you located any yet?

8031G & 8035G are the same
1.29 under, direct and .84 OD

There is no 8031R unless it was added in later years but there is however an R8031R with 2.38 under, direct and .75OD

8345A 2.40 under, 1.29 under, direct and .84OD

I have parts manuals for the following but no URL for posting.
Send a PM if any one needs any of it. I can copy and email them.
3 Speeds 5831, 7231,8031,R8031
4 Speeds 6041, 7041,8341,R8341,RP8341, and 1241

Some other info, food for thought. No such thing as cannot fix loose on the shaft gear. Sure they are hard but machine shops do it every day. Bore a gear no more than necessary to ensure the bore is straight then turn the shaft and fit it with a bushing. Shafts are not as hard as the gears and turn fairly easy.

uglydukwling:
If you want a shop to look at one of these you have to go to a big truck shop, tranny shops are useless. If the shaft is oversized it has most likely been welded and turned. Such was once a common everyday thing but now labor costs a fortune and no one fixes any thing. If the only yoke you have is too tight turn the shaft. All 1&3/4 yokes are not the same size. There are old and late yokes. Early models did not have yoke hub seals later models do. Both inside and outside diameters vary with age of manufacture. I have many times found that a rear tranny yoke will not change from one spicer to another spicer of the same model because the minor diameters were different. I just finished putting OD in a 5031 bought a new yoke to fit a 1510 U-joint and guess what? it won't fit. Outer Shaft diameter is fine but the minor diameter in the yoke is too small and has to be bored to fit. Spicer boxes are often a lot of machine work they do not have plug and play toyota parts. If you order new spicer parts do not ever do any machine work ahead of the new parts. Spicer anticipates wear and many new parts made by Spicer are .003 to .004 undersized.

 

It looks like I finally have all the issues sorted out and I'm ready to put my 5831 back together.

Since gaskets aren't available, there are a couple of things I'd like to check: All the rebuild threads recommend using gasket eliminator. Is there a "best" one to use or does it matter?

The Spicer manual says to bolt the front cover and gasket on, set the countershaft bearing preload, take the cover off, assemble the input shaft, and replace the cover. The thickness of the gasket will affect the preload, so do I just bolt the cover on with no gasket and set the preload assuming that the gasket eliminator will have zero thickness when it comes to final assembly? The other alternative is to make a gasket. If I do that, does it matter what material and thickness I use? What about the other end of the countershaft, where the shims go? There doesn't appear to be any gasket there.

 

Gasket thickness on the front cap does make a difference but only affects the thickness of the shims necessary for the rear cap. Motors Manual says "After counter shaft is assembled, measure clearance between the rear bearing cap and the case. Then select a shim or shims that will provide .001-.003 endplay. When adjustment is satisfactory torque bolt to 45-50 ft. lbs.
It has been my experience that different thicknesses of gasket material is easier to find on Ebay than it is in the local parts stores.
On many spicer boxes a cover gasket of less than 1/16" often allows the shift forks to make unwanted constant contact with the sliders.
Bearing caps with shims are without gaskets. I epoxy the joints after assembly. Epoxy is not permanent, does not hinder disassembly and is easily scraped off when heated.

 

this is a replay to all.
check out my posts #66 & 143.
removed a gv and installed a 7231b into a 1986 f250 with 6.9 for trailer towing.
works great

 

Hi I have a F350 I got from my uncle I came with a 3 speed synchro brownie in it that is duble under under & direct wich is nice because the thuck now has a curb weight of 5 tons and that with out the 5 wheel flatbed, I wanted to mount my tranfer cace after the brownie but could not afford to have an adapter made. Thw the brownie looks like it was set up to be a 4 speed and and was just built in to a special 3 speed application. So if it will take another gear I am gona put an over in it abb that will complete my drive train :-)

 

Just jioned the forum in hopes to solve my problem.In the middle of installing a Cummins 6BT with Allison 545 plus a Brownie 6031. Hoping to keep rpms down. Running into a problem finding the mate to the input and output flanges.Bought the transmission with both flanges attached,now in need of the yoke flange to bolt to the flanges on the gearbox. Sounds like a lot of flanges.Locally a truck transmission shop siad if I know the driveline series that would help the search.Really would like to find some used ones.Sure would fit my budget a lot better.Seem to be running into a dead end here.Any help would be greatly apprishated.Thanks in advance and have a great weekend.

 

Subscribing so I won't lose it again...

 

I am looking for information on Brown Lipe Transmissions like a fiend for my 65' Marmon Herrington project. I have read this thread and think the picture below wont be a re post. I found it in an old over the road truck forum. I for got to grab the link for proper citation purposes, so yea.



I have a 3 speed in the shed that this list does not cover. Can anyone comment as to what I have based on the below pictures?

 

I've seen that one before, it is a good one to have around with the hand written weights and lengths on it too.
I saw it with a watson page with similar info.
This link has the ratio for your M41 in it.
http://forums.aths.org/PrintTopic31310.aspx

It will fire up a printer prompt so ignore that.

 

Thanks skyking1 for pointing out the link. I had seen that one before, however i neglected to notice the ratios for the model 41.

 

1.26
1.00
.83

Those are the classic tight gears for low powered rigs
I now have a couple of US Gear Underdrives to play with, but if I went with a brownie I'd want a .83 OD and a 2.00 under for backing trailers into bad spots. Very nice to have a low low for backing.

 

I think the ratios will be ok. The Powerstroke puts out 225 HP in healthy stock condition. It is relatively low power by today's standards. By coupling the 1.26:1 under and my low range transfer case post brownie I think I'll be creepy crawly enough. The low gears will come in handy for the tight technical turn arounds at the end of haul roads, or lugging 2 green cords of wood up my 10% plus grade driveway.

 

Yup, it will be great. I was referring to when that box was built and you needed all those tight ratios because your powerband was very narrow.
I have a 2wd truck and wanted that deep low to make up for not having a transfer case with a low in it.

 

I just stumbled across this eBay listing for a Brownie:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201150160348?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
No relationship or knowledge to offer,

Archie

 

Cannot add anything useful but if you look at the picture, this particular unit is useless unless you have a main tranny it will mate to. This unit was part of a compound tranny.
There is currently another sleezebay listing with a box that is of the same type that works independent of main tranny