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Hi, I am installing a 5531 in my '49 F4 behind a T98 and a Mercedes 3.0L turbo diesel. As 38Coupe said there is not a lot of room in these cabs. Does anyone have photos of where and how they mounted the shifter in the '48-'52 trucks. F6guy posted a couple of years ago that he installed a 5531 in a '51 or '52 F6. I do have the Spicer shifter for the transmission.
Thanks, Mark
Have you thought about using a column shifter? The factory column shifter common in late 50 through 52 F-1 pickups should bolt right onto the stock steering column. You would need to fabricate linkage including a cross shaft. I am hoping that I can have a regular three-on-the-tree shift pattern less reverse if everything works out for me. My big concern is if the column shift handle can take the force required to shift the 5831 and still have reasonable throws on the shifter. I don't want the shifter in front of my gauges when I am in direct drive, or in my right leg when I am in overdrive.
Anyone have any luck locating the seals/gland/packing for the two shift rods on a Model 41? I found a part number for the Model 5831 which I believe will be the same size. 60-41-2 and 60-43-1. I just tore my 41 down last night and looks pretty good. There is a little
I recently got a 1946 2 1/2 ford truck. My wife's grandfather bought it new in 1947. I had it shipped from Idaho to indiana where we live. I got it running and rewired the engine since to old wire was in such bad shape. I drove it about 2 blocks today. Now for my question. It has a 2nd shifter that goes between your legs when you drive. It goes to a brownie 3 speed Aux gear box Under, direct and overdrive. My question is what is the proper shift pattern for this set up. Do i shift (1st direct) to (1st Overdrive) then (2nd Direct) to (2nd Overdrive) and so on? I am only 29 years old and have never driven a split shift truck so i am really looking forward to it but i want to make sure im doing it properly. Any adive would be great thank you
I recently got a 1946 2 1/2 ford truck. My wife's grandfather bought it new in 1947. I had it shipped from Idaho to indiana where we live. I got it running and rewired the engine since to old wire was in such bad shape. I drove it about 2 blocks today. Now for my question. It has a 2nd shifter that goes between your legs when you drive. It goes to a brownie 3 speed Aux gear box Under, direct and overdrive. My question is what is the proper shift pattern for this set up. Do i shift (1st direct) to (1st Overdrive) then (2nd Direct) to (2nd Overdrive) and so on? I am only 29 years old and have never driven a split shift truck so i am really looking forward to it but i want to make sure im doing it properly. Any adive would be great thank you
If you're running empty, I would just leave it in over and go through the main gears.
How you split depends on the ratios. Some brownies are close ratio so you can split 1lo-1D-1O-2lo...etc, or they have a deep lo range that would shift 1lo-1D-1O-2D... the only place to use low is in first when you need it, or if yoy need a big downshift on a hill.
Sometimes, you can have gear overlap, say 3O = 4D, and you would probably go 3D-4D. This is unlikely as I imagine your main box has a fairly wide split.
Also, keep in mind your brownie box isn't synchronized.
If you're running empty, I would just leave it in over and go through the main gears.
How you split depends on the ratios. Some brownies are close ratio so you can split 1lo-1D-1O-2lo...etc, or they have a deep lo range that would shift 1lo-1D-1O-2D... the only place to use low is in first when you need it, or if yoy need a big downshift on a hill.
Sometimes, you can have gear overlap, say 3O = 4D, and you would probably go 3D-4D. This is unlikely as I imagine your main box has a fairly wide split.
Also, keep in mind your brownie box isn't synchronized.
Hope this helped.
That did help alot thank you. Since it is not synchronized what is the best way to shift it? i have read alot of people shift these old trucks without the clutch. Is that a good practice?
That did help alot thank you. Since it is not synchronized what is the best way to shift it? i have read alot of people shift these old trucks without the clutch. Is that a good practice?
I would start out double clutching until you figure out the rpm drops. With the main in gear; clutch- out of gear- release, then press clutch again- into gear. If you know anyone that drives a truck, I would take them out with you so you can get first person critiquing. You'll learn much faster.
I have double clutched before i tried that in it when i drove it last weekend and it didnt go so well but that could be because i only drove it about 2 blocks so im sure there is a learning curve to it. Thank you for all of your advice. I plan to drive this truck everyday so im looking forward to getting it finished up
Hi Fred, Thanks for the tip on the column shifter. I have the proper Spicer shifter for the brownie and I think I have figured out where I can put it without it being in the way and still easily usable. I could use he column shifter but I have already utilized the hole in the column drop for something else and I think I would have to change the column tube also. The brownie has a really short movement on the shift rails so I think the column shifter would probably work really well. You should be able to get a leverage advantage on the linkage as the column shift has a lot more travel than the shift rails on the brownie needs. I am also thinking that with the diesel in my truck that I may need to split shift the two transmissions when the truck is loaded. That may be easier to accomplish with the two sticks side by side.
BTW, I always thought that the ratios on my 5531 were 2.0 under drive and .85 for overdrive. I checked it the other day and I have 2.0 under drive and .72 overdrive. I think that will work better for my truck and engine combo.
Thanks again for the reply, Mark
Anyone have any luck locating the seals/gland/packing for the two shift rods on a Model 41? I found a part number for the Model 5831 which I believe will be the same size. 60-41-2 and 60-43-1.
The part number I have for the shift rod seals from a 5831 is 28P-19. I am told these cross to a National 350567 seal.
You should be able to take your worn out seals into a good parts store and have the person who knows how to read a parts book find you new ones by the ID, OD, and seal type.
Hi, I am installing a 5531 in my '49 F4 behind a T98 and a Mercedes 3.0L turbo diesel. As 38Coupe said there is not a lot of room in these cabs. Does anyone have photos of where and how they mounted the shifter in the '48-'52 trucks. F6guy posted a couple of years ago that he installed a 5531 in a '51 or '52 F6. I do have the Spicer shifter for the transmission.
Thanks, Mark
Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
Hi Fred, Thanks for the tip on the column shifter. I have the proper Spicer shifter for the brownie and I think I have figured out where I can put it without it being in the way and still easily usable.... I always thought that the ratios on my 5531 were 2.0 under drive and .85 for overdrive. I checked it the other day and I have 2.0 under drive and .72 overdrive. I think that will work better for my truck and engine combo.
Thanks again for the reply, Mark
I just remembered the picture of Chuck's F-7 with a Coleman convertion. He has a Spicer 5831 in that big 4 wheel drive rig. There is an intimidating number of shifters coming through his floor. Post with picture here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...l#post10341841
Thanks for the thoughts on the column shifter. I plan on using a 337 flathead in front of my 5831. I suspect I will use the auxiliary more as a range shift box than for split shifting. The 27% overdrive does split the gear ratios of a T-98 really nicely though.
I like your install uniwagon. I half agree with the 10K and fire deal. Sometimes the fun of the build is the challenge of the hunt. My F350 has 1310 u-joints. I didn't want to destroy the original shafts, in case I ever want to put them back. LOL that'll never happen. So once my aux was in place, I started mixing and matching. I had the front shaft cause it came with the tranny. I had a bunch of yokes a friend gave me. I measured my length to the rear diff and went shopping at my local junkyard. I found a shaft that was close, had the 1310 joints on it. It came from an Izuzu Rodeo!! The slip spline was wrong to fit the yoke, so I had it changed. My total cost with tranny, new bearing for tranny, seals, and driveline components was just under $400.
Of course I'm a butcher welder so I used scrap steel laying around for my brackets.
I like your install uniwagon. I half agree with the 10K and fire deal. Sometimes the fun of the build is the challenge of the hunt. My F350 has 1310 u-joints. I didn't want to destroy the original shafts, in case I ever want to put them back. LOL that'll never happen. So once my aux was in place, I started mixing and matching. I had the front shaft cause it came with the tranny. I had a bunch of yokes a friend gave me. I measured my length to the rear diff and went shopping at my local junkyard. I found a shaft that was close, had the 1310 joints on it. It came from an Izuzu Rodeo!! The slip spline was wrong to fit the yoke, so I had it changed. My total cost with tranny, new bearing for tranny, seals, and driveline components was just under $400.
Of course I'm a butcher welder so I used scrap steel laying around for my brackets.
Hello,do you have any pictures?Thank you for the nice words.I am just at a point in my life where I want things done now or if possible yesterday.Also I have found once you drive old iron with an auxiliary with overdrive and hit 75 mph and she is smooth as silk it is ok to throw the old drive shafts in the shredder pile.There is no going back/just in case.
Chris
I noticed today that the hub for my e-brake on my brownie gear box is cracked. Is there anyway to replace it? Also the e-brake pad is gone is that replaceable? thank you
Last edited by parker757; Jan 29, 2016 at 01:41 PM.
Reason: added pictures
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