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fuel delivery fix

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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 03:06 PM
  #106  
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hink10
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
Thanks Nut! Just need to figure out the return line fitting and I'm ready to order parts!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:44 PM
  #107  
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From: New Hampshire
more info

The return line from the regulator was terminated with a straight swivel -6AN
hose end fitting. Then i added a -6AN to 1/4"NPT male adapter with 90degree bend,next connect female 1/4" NPT coupler,screw in a 1/4" NPT to 3/8"(= -6AN)ID hose barb,take end of clean cut well taped SS braided line and hose clamp to
3/8" barbed fitting,then cut the return line down several inches on the downward run and slide other end of SS line OVER cut end of rigid return line...add hose clamp and ...BINGO...done that part. Next remove the spare port
allen(english 3/16" ?) plug from the fuel filter housing in the rear for your pressure guage connection. I found a fitting at Home Depot for $3 that fits in the weird size(hard to find) port threads, this fitting went to a 1/4"NPT male
and then i coupled with female coupler 1/4" to another 1/4" male NPT to 1/4" ID
barbed adapter. Had some leftover blue high quality 1/4" hose to run to pressure guage. Pressure guage was purchased from DI for $25 with ship. It has a 1/8"
NPT male fitting. Most of this NPT adapter fitting stuff is available at all hardware stores. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: try to keep hoses and the regulator apart from other hose..etc as u don't need things cutting into each other from vibration.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:57 PM
  #108  
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From: New Hampshire
Tests so far

So far i have had NO troubles starting the truck or running at any RPM with the new system. I currently have the regulator adjusted to 60psi because of the tremendous flow capacity of the -6AN(= 6/16" or 3/8") sized delivery system.
This week i put 325 miles on it. Had several immediate shutdown and restart
cycles pass with flying colors. Big flow here!... and it's awesome. This weekend
i'm adding a inline high capacity fuel filter that uses TP for an element. Will probably never have to replace the fuel filter in the bowl again. My inline
will filter to 1 micron.
Nut
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:49 PM
  #109  
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hink10
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
Thanks for all the info nut! Glad to hear everything on your system is working well. I pretty excited to get this done. I was going to try to keep the factory return intact and tap into the fitting. I picked up a 5/16 male compression fitting at the store and that had the right threads and seems that it would seal good too. I'm only testing on a new metal fuel line that I was going to replace. Maybe tomorrow I will pull the return line off and look to see if this compression fitting looks the same as the factory fitting. Does anyone happen to know if a male compression fitting would work in this case? I am trying to get this together asap because I am going to be running FEMA trailers down to Mississippi starting sometime next week. Last time I ran about 20k miles in a few weeks, would be nice to have these miles be cackle free!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 10:56 PM
  #110  
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jtharvey
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From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by PSNut
cut the return line down several inches on the downward run and slide other end of SS line OVER cut end of rigid return line...add hose clamp and ...BINGO...done that part.
So the -6AN line will fit over the factory return line. That's what I needed to know. I found a T fitting from Jegs with a 1/8" NPT and 2 -6AN lines. My plan is to screw the 1/8" NPT into the pressure snubber that goes into the block off plate that DI makes. Run one AN line from the regulator and the other AN line off to the factory retrun line. But, I didn't know what size that -6AN line was and if it would clamp down ok on the factory return line. I think my question has been answered. Now if I could just figure out what size of pressure snubber to use..... Depending on cost, I may just buy all 3 and then decide which one to use once I have them. Sure wish I knew what size the hole was in the fitting on the ITP kit.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 04:18 AM
  #111  
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by jtharvey
So the -6AN line will fit over the factory return line. That's what I needed to know. I found a T fitting from Jegs with a 1/8" NPT and 2 -6AN lines. My plan is to screw the 1/8" NPT into the pressure snubber that goes into the block off plate that DI makes. Run one AN line from the regulator and the other AN line off to the factory retrun line. But, I didn't know what size that -6AN line was and if it would clamp down ok on the factory return line. I think my question has been answered. Now if I could just figure out what size of pressure snubber to use..... Depending on cost, I may just buy all 3 and then decide which one to use once I have them. Sure wish I knew what size the hole was in the fitting on the ITP kit.
Sounds good JT...look forward to hearing about how u like your setup.
Nut
 
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 04:19 AM
  #112  
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by hink10
Thanks for all the info nut! Glad to hear everything on your system is working well. I pretty excited to get this done. I was going to try to keep the factory return intact and tap into the fitting. I picked up a 5/16 male compression fitting at the store and that had the right threads and seems that it would seal good too. I'm only testing on a new metal fuel line that I was going to replace. Maybe tomorrow I will pull the return line off and look to see if this compression fitting looks the same as the factory fitting. Does anyone happen to know if a male compression fitting would work in this case? I am trying to get this together asap because I am going to be running FEMA trailers down to Mississippi starting sometime next week. Last time I ran about 20k miles in a few weeks, would be nice to have these miles be cackle free!
Glad to help Hink! Good luck!
Nut
 
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:40 PM
  #113  
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sgrol
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From: Gig Em, Tx
Just did my in tank back to fuel pump mod and found a few surprizes along the way.
As I was preparing to lower the tank, I discovered the front vent line was disconnected from the tank. Not a big deal but that could introduce dirt into the tank. When I pulled the sender assembly from the tank I noticed it didn't have the big screen assembly on the suction tube. It had somehow broken off between the relief inlet and the screen section. Pulled the screened piece from the botom of the tank. Needless to say, it was in no shape to go back into the tank so I just ran a straight tube down to the bottom of the tank for the fuel pickup. FWIW, the return steel line in the tank is 5/16 and the suction line is 3/8.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:01 PM
  #114  
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by sgrol
FWIW, the return steel line in the tank is 5/16 and the suction line is 3/8.
Sounds right to me.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:56 PM
  #115  
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jtharvey
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From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by sgrol
I just ran a straight tube down to the bottom of the tank for the fuel pickup.
Just looking out for ya here -- you did check to be sure there was clearance between the bottom of the tube and the bottom of the tank?? That stock plastic "foot" can touch the bottom of the tank and still suck fuel, due to the little "feet" it has on the bottom of it. If your pickup tube is touching the bottom, you'll have a bit of a restriction. If it's really far off the bottom, it'll quit sucking fuel long before the tank is actually empty. Again, not second guessing your work, just looking out.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 09:17 PM
  #116  
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sgrol
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From: Gig Em, Tx
Thanks JTHarvey. I measured several times before I cut the tube to length so, I hope it is just right. Will find out soon when I go to fill up. I would have liked to reuse the screen part but, as I posted earlier, not possible.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 04:24 PM
  #117  
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From: New Hampshire
Leak check

Today i popped the hood and found a minor leak at the fitting to the regulator.
Tightened down and it stopped. Make sure u folks doing the new reg return system keep an eye on those fittings since they're prone to loosening from vibration and such.
Nut
 
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