fuel delivery fix
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
fuel delivery fix
Getting ready to do my own reroute of the fuel delivery and going with the external reg set-up. Have a Kirban reg coming and a fuel pressure gauge too.
Got my hosing at IHC.
Any tips, warnings ,looking back with hindsight...etc.
Got a lot of Kwiks data on his air bleed set-up
....excellent info!
I want to correct this poor design.
Got my hosing at IHC.
Any tips, warnings ,looking back with hindsight...etc.
Got a lot of Kwiks data on his air bleed set-up
....excellent info!I want to correct this poor design.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Maybe start putting liquid wrench on the plugs on the backs of the heads. Are you going to run the fuel through the heads? I'd also consider a fuel cooler if you are. I am going to before next summer. Your fuel in your tank will rise to 160+ which in itself isn't a problem but your pump doesn't like it. I'm thinking an aluminum 30" straight through design on both the pump side and the return side. You may also pull off your pump and see if there is crap in the screen which seems to be a common issue.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Wings
I wasn't aware that the fuel delivery had a problem to begin with. What up the this? I will watch this thread and hopefully learn.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=260173
And LarryM over on the diesel stop has compiled a HUGE list of good things to read. Plan on devoting a LOONNNGGGG time to read it all.
Cat=&Number=1173329&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=3 1&fpart=1
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Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Have you Hutched the fuel tank and gotten rid of all the quick connects? That made a bigger difference than modifying the fuel rails on my truck.
Got to admit that working on a fuel tank is a little intimidating to me.
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Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
Maybe start putting liquid wrench on the plugs on the backs of the heads. Are you going to run the fuel through the heads? I'd also consider a fuel cooler if you are. I am going to before next summer. Your fuel in your tank will rise to 160+ which in itself isn't a problem but your pump doesn't like it. I'm thinking an aluminum 30" straight through design on both the pump side and the return side. You may also pull off your pump and see if there is crap in the screen which seems to be a common issue.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Wings
I wasn't aware that the fuel delivery had a problem to begin with. What up the this? I will watch this thread and hopefully learn.
...it is how i'm setting up my fuel delivery system with the exception of the return routing. I'm going thru an external regulator(red block in picture). Connecting a fuel pressure guage to the unused port on the filter housing assembly and mounting it in a position to be determined. I have the SS HPOP cover which is larger than the plastic cover so i have to work around it...any suggestions on a good mounting spot is appreciated.
Nut
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by PSNut
Nope haven't done that yet...i plan on installing a FASS. Would i still need that mod Kwik?
Got to admit that working on a fuel tank is a little intimidating to me.
Got to admit that working on a fuel tank is a little intimidating to me.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
You don't really need to Hutch the tank as long as you always run 1/4 tank or more. What the worst problem is: is the quick connects that attach the fuel lines to the tank and the fuel pump. As the fuel is drawn through the line from the tank to the pump they allow air to bleed into the fuel supply, contaminating the fuel with air. You don't have to pull the tank to get rid of them, but it's tight on top of the tank. You must change out those quick connects for a piece of flex line and hose clamps, preferably two clamps per union at 180 from each other. One head on top of the hose and the other head on the bottom of the hose. That's where the majority of the problem begins, not in the tank. If you want to get that air seperator in there, that's great, but you don't really need it if you eliminate the quick connects.
