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I plan on replacing my whole line from tank to inlet of pump. That way it has a large volume feed line and the pump isn't sucking thru a small "straw".
You plan on running the 3/8 from the tank to the pump? How much do you think it'll take? And which will you use to get a larger ID? Seriously, since you started that thread, evertime I start my truck I go over to the passenger fender well and listen to the "cackle". It drives me nuts now. But the regulated return thing is over my head. I've been reading and reading but it intimidates me.
You plan on running the 3/8 from the tank to the pump? How much do you think it'll take? And which will you use to get a larger ID? Seriously, since you started that thread, evertime I start my truck I go over to the passenger fender well and listen to the "cackle". It drives me nuts now. But the regulated return thing is over my head. I've been reading and reading but it intimidates me.
Same here but I did it with a helper and the directions were great. We took our time and it took 6-8 hrs. All the fuel lines are molded to fit.
Just finished my fuel delivery system(engine side) mod yesterday. Took it
out for a short drive and ...WOW!.. nice quieter operation. Idle is noticeable
and 65-75mph cruise is quieter.
I'm amazed at how small those inline check valves are for each cylinder head.
I measured 4mm ID(1/8" NPT) on outlet side and the inlet has a mesh screen.
Glad they're gone! Replaced with -6AN(nominal 3/8") SS braided line and fittings.
Can u say max flow! Minimally i would go in and replace the feed line and remove those dang valves...cheap fix.
My reg return system total cost:$350.
Nut
Last edited by PSNut; Jan 22, 2006 at 07:10 AM.
Reason: add photos
Thank you for the feedback PSNut. Notice any extra midrange power?
Yes...it seems across the entire band too. Different feel,sound...i like it!
Wondering if having the batteries disconnected,the power reset on electronics,
is responsible for any change? Time will tell. Runnig my pressure at 65psi...measured a max of 70psi.
Quite the project! I'm just about ready to power up the fuel pump yea know...
check,double check all fittings for tightness, replace fuel filter(pretty brown!)...
here goes...pressure building...air escaping thru reg...then....splash!!!....shower
from LOOSE fuel filter cover . Now i have a real clean motor compliments of
#2 diesel fuel washing. Diesel fumes in the house really suck!
Nut
psnut can you post some pics of your setup? The more i read about this mod the more i want to tackle it. What size are the fitting in the back of the head? Any info on fitting sizes would be great!! Thanks in advance Lancer
Another question on this subject. I was planning on gathering the parts to do a regulated return but Kwik's method also very interesting. I'm trying to reason out what may be the 'better' system and why. It seems like both the regulated return and the orifice method gets rid of the air in the system, but Kwik's method looks less expensive. Can I get some insight on the technicals?
Thanks............
Kwik's design is effective and cheap...probably less than $75.
My design allows enough head room to grow into down the road if i want to upgrade to bigger injectors. I used SS braided line(racing stuff for any fuel)
-6AN size(nominal 3/8" ID) with 350F heat handling and real high pressure. Looks REAL nice...doesn't rust. I got the swivel fittings making it easier to run line and set up in the tight valley space. The external reg gives precise control of FP.
I'll have some pictures for everyone soon.
Nut
psnut can you post some pics of your setup? The more i read about this mod the more i want to tackle it. What size are the fitting in the back of the head? Any info on fitting sizes would be great!! Thanks in advance Lancer
Lancer, all the port fittings are 1/8" NPT. Jeg's has all the stuff u need to connect to the 1/8" ports. Look for 1/8"NPT w/-6AN size setup.
Lucky for me my truck isn't my daily driver and i can keep it in the garage and work on it.
Nut