I just remembered this as well. You'll want to heat shield the passenger side fuel line from the heat of the downpipe. The picture is about the EBPV, but you can plainly see the tin shield that I installed. It's simply a small piece of galvanized roof flashing.

 

What size hose did u go with at tank and engine?

 

Yup. I have all your pictures from the original post on the computer...gonna
make one of those too.

 

Kwikkordead, i just bought the intank/prepump kit from dieselmanor, it was $50 and it included everything needed to re-do the hosing before the pump. i guess this is a hutch mod too? what else does the hutch do?


will this help eliminate the fuel cackle, after i pass all the air through the system?

 

So kwik, if i get rid of the quick connects at the tank will i notice any differance even if i don' do the whole rest of the setup?? I guess what i'm saying is it worth just doing the quick connects?

 

Kwikk, so do you think that by replacing the lines from the tank to the inline pump will give the biggest improvement? I'm not yet ready to dive into the tank to get rid of the mixing chamber or to install your great air bleed system.

A couple of questions about replacing the lines:
1) What type of hose do I need? I saw a spec in one of the threads, but now I can't seem to find it.
2) Does the tank need to drop to get access to the fuel pump connections?
3) Is there a special type of hose clamp that I should be using?

I'm getting a shim kit for my FPR, so I'd like to have the most fuel available with the least amount of air in it.

 

I'll try and answer all the question in this one post. If I forgot one please remind me and I'll address it.
The fuel hose that I used was 7mm ID fuel injection rated from the tank to the pump. It's the flexible fuel line that a lot of European cars use. I buy it by the 20 meter roll from World Pac. You might be able to substitute 5/16 hose, but make sure that it's the good stuff. It will be expensive. The cheap stuff might rot from the inside out. I don't know for certain, but the only way to be sure is to use fuel injection rated hose.
The hose that I used on the engine was 1/4" fuel injection rated. The 1/4" is too small for the fuel supply lines between the pump and the tank. Likewise the 7mm is too big to use for the 1/8 NPT fittings required to modify the fuel rails. I bought the 1/4" hose at NAPA. $50.00 for ten feet. Very expensive, but I didn't want to play around with mediocre hose with fuel at 70 psi and hot exhaust manifolds.
The biggest difference will be found by eliminating the quick connects. Once you get the source of the air in the fuel eliminated, it will take a good long drive to get the worst of the air out of the rails. You will never get it all, but the lion's share will be gone.
Strokin'_it your kit is the Hutch mod.

I'm anxious to hear what you all think after you are all done, even if you think that you completly wasted your time. It sure made a difference in mine, and if it does the same for you all, (or not) then I'll be better equipped to help in the future for other people as well.

 

BTW, i'm figuring around $215 for my regulated return system:
$125 for reg, $25 for fuel pressure gauge, $50 for hose, $15 for adapters...some
approx values there....this = half the price of other dealers kits(typical $429-$450),, $200+ saved for other mods.

 

PSNut, that's why I did this. I didn't want to spend that much money and knew that something could be worked out.

 

u were right there!...subtract $125 for the Kirban reg and your lookin at under $100 for a good fix that serves a few worthwhile purposes. Longer injector life,less noise, better flow maybe better economy,less smoke...etc.
After reading your posts and TDS stuff i was convinced of the effectiveness of the fix along with the low price.

 

No problem PS nut. Here's a pic of how my ITP regulator is mounted if that helps. It has the fuel gauge mounted right in front which is great for setting the initial pressure, but I have a feeling my pressure is dropping under load. I've recently picked up a fitting to use the un-used port on the fuel bowl for a remote gauge. The only thing holding me back is the 200 bucks for a good isolated setup. Anyway, here is the aeromotive regulator mounted to an L bracket that relocates some thingy off to the side. The L bracket has a hole bored through for 99.5+ air heaters to clear.

 

Fat Diesel, do you have a metal fuel tank or a plastic one?

 

Freak'in awesome Fat...thanks!

 

Here is my plastic tank and the guts from the inside at about 150k. My tank was almost brand new looking on the inside at that point. I do run it nearly empty every time though. I'm starting to think I have pictures of my entire truck, inside and out...

 

Ok, I was thinking that your fuel pressure problem might have been caused by a metal tank that was beginning to shed a few rust particles like mine was and clogging the fuel pump.