I've been doing a little research and gathering some parts to do the regulated return, hutch mod and harpoon mods. So far I have located a local shop that will build some engine fuel lines similar to ITP's lines for the engine to get steel in the hot spots (still working on a price quote), a Racor suction fuel filter from eBay (2 micron, 45GPH), and hose for the hutch mod.

The interesting thing that I have discovered about hose are the SAE ratings. SAE hose ratings seem to be the important item when it comes to what will work for diesel hose and what won't. SAE 30R7 hose is rated for diesel applications up to 50psi working (3/8 & smaller, 35psi for larger); Fuel Injection 30R9 hose is rated for diesel applications up to 180psi working and 275* F. 30R10 rated hose would be used for diesel submurged applications such as in-tank fuel pumps, as the outer covering on the 30R10 is resistant to fuel permiation the same as the interior lining.

It also appears as the diesel rating is not so much for the diesel fuel itself, but for some of the additives that can be put into diesel that will attack the inner lining of the fuel line.

 

Thanks for reporting that Guzzle. It's nice to know the flex line can handle more heat than the engine will ever make.

 

Wow!!! Thanks Kwik for the thread, and yes it was loooonnnnngggg reading. At least I feel a little caught up with you guys now. The Webshots are great. Now I need to make my own schematic do some looking at DI. I don't remember seeing Cookie88 on this thread. I am interested in the BIG inline pre filter and am wondering where he got it. Is it worth it. I extend my thanks to you all

 

You got your crash course now.
If you do this, you'll not regret it.
The engine will sound so much healthier you'll think you rebuilt it.

 

Can't wait. I was thinking of adding a larger replacement fuel tank, so I will probably do the mod then....

 

So kwikk, you think I'd see a huge improvement by just replacing the lines from the tank and getting rid of the quick couplers? (I may have already ask this, I can't remember. It's been a hectic week.)

I'm going to wait until it warms up to drop the tank and do the harpoon mod and hutch mod.

 

3/8" for fuel supply prepump. 1/4" for engine reroute.

 

I came across this real strong 1/4" hose that's 1/2 the price of SAE 30R9 hose($5.50/ft) but only good to 212F. I'm figuring on adding this aluminized heat shield wrap that i found at Jegs.com part #893-13500 ($10.00 for 12"X12" sheet).
Nut

 

Your stock thermostat has your engine operating at 190*, so fuel coming out of the head is going to be close to that temperature or possibly much hotter. So the temperature fo the fuel could be a problem if you are doing a reg. return.

 

Does anyone know what the plastic fuel tank is rated for as max temp? I think it's probably rather high since radiated heat from the asphault in southern desert areas can reach close to these temps. I know I have seen fuel coolers that are designed to mount under your truck to lower return fuel temps by about 30*.

 

It's pretty stiff plastic, I'd think it would be very high. After all, you can boil water in tupperware, and it's softer than our tanks.

 

Yeah...so i should definitely go with the 30R9 stuff u think? Thanks Cux.

 

About how much of the 3/8 line do you need to do the fuel supply pre-pump?

 

It takes about a foot at the tank and another at the pump. So a couple of feet.

 

Ahhh, ok. I thought I had to run it from the tank to the pump. Again, I never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer.