just a note: when u have more roll-stiffness in the rear of a front engine/rear drive machine, oversteer can drop u off the road REALLY fast.....so be careful.


changing the shims/wedges in the front suspension for more caster(tilt back) should happen at the same time as ur rear roll bar. especially if someone other than u may drive it. plus it will be "twitchy" in a steer-in

 

This is true. I have a Mustang with aftermarket upper and lower control arms. Even adjusted to compensate, the initial overstear is very quick. I like it instead of the factory understear. It just takes some getting used to. No SUDDEN MOVEMENTS at speed!

 

Yes, it can and will. Ive plastered the ditch several times myself. I have learned to compensate by turning the wheels into the slide BEFORE the tires loose full traction; during the touchy period between stability and break-loose. If you wait too long, you will be unable to control the slide and the back end will come around on you. If you catch it at just the right moment, you can go into one beautiful, controlled drift that will seriously increase your cornering speed The really tricky part comes in the S-curves...

 

How do you adjust the front caster on the 4x4's?

 

u can put wedges in between the spring and axle to roll it back, just like u do on the rear axle when u lift it, only not as much....2-3deg is plenty

it doesnt take much at all so it wont hurt ur drive angle

 

WHOA !!!!
I'm not talking about a four wheel drift in my 8K lb excursion like I can (and have in Autocrosses) in the lincoln LS !!!

I'm talking about a simple rear sway bar upgrade to keep the back end a LOT more planted than stock so when you do the merge onto the interstate you don't have to plan the switchback 5 minutes ahead to go thru there at anything over 20 mph!!!

If you don't have a rear bar, the $135 from Summit or J.C. WHitney is the BEST money you can spend on your truck (other than the Predator of course !)

And yes, the Hellwig is 40% (IIRC) more torsional strength of even the 30 mm towing setup ford stock bar, much less the 23 MM bar without the trailer tow setup... It is a bigger diameter and a stronger metal...

DO IT - you'll thank me !

 

If installation of the 550 sway bar isnt possible; I will give the Hellwig bar a try. You CAN drift your excursion, if you are so-minded. As long as you dont slide off the road; if you hit dirt it would probably go over. My SC SWB SRW looks quite topheavy, however, when you really hit the turns it sways little to none. The addition of my Rancho RSX shocks has virtually eliminated all of it; if I put a stronger sway bar it will be phenominal. I personally have very little experience with cars, so I can't really vouch for any high-speed experience in them. With some practice, I find drifting in my truck to be relatively easy and controllable (that is, after practicing in the ditch a couple times...cost me a new front bumper on my old truck). The only time it is really tricky is on a downhill incline, as these things have little back end weight.

 

It's good having you around Big. You are a wealth of interesting and important datails!

 

Ok..you convinced me!

 

I second that.

 

Guys, check my latest post in the EGR thread. Most here will be interested.

 

Check out this truck for some ideas http://www.dieselinnovations.com/

 

I like the 33 12.50 MT drag slicks on that truck. You should consider a set of those for the track, Bob.

Anyone know of any cons to shooting c02 into the point where the two uppipes come together to reduce EGT's?

 

Did you notice that it had a Dana 60 Rear end (early Chrysler) with 5 bolt 35 spline axels. That is how they got a 15" wheel on the truck.

Where the 2 pipes come together it will be 1250 degrees. It would take a lot of C02 to make a difference. You really need to retain heat close to the maximum to maintain exhaust gas velocity so the turbo will spin up to the max. Optimum heat would be just short of damaging the vanes.

 

Will 15's not work on the truck as it sits? Im sure someone makes an 8 lug, 15 inch wheel. The only compatibilty issue I can think of would be the enormous diameter of the brake rotors.