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i am gettin a boost pressure switch tomorrow, and i'll then have my system finished. the wot switch doesnt do the job
What was the issue with the WOT switch? All the stuff for my 4 stage conversion is here. Im gonna get working on it tonight.
And by the way, I completely overlooked some stuff on my self-mixing system. I am positive i can do it for the cost of a gate valve and an extra tank I just overlooked something. Ill explain when i get it done.
I'm having some trouble with the combination of fittings I'm using. I also need some line. I wonder if braded steel line is really necessary since the mixture is not flamible. I think I may have some time Tuesday to buy that stuff. Then I need to set up a method to get pressure to the hobbs switch to set it. I have a bicycle pump and a gage I can plumb in to it.
I still think I need a throttle based switch and a dash switch for the system.
I also want a pressure gage on the line to see what I am actually getting. I can tape it to the top of the tool box temporairly.
the problem w/ the wot switch is that the boost can be 22-25 without the pedal even 3/4 of the way. it needs the water at 22psi so it cant be dependent on throttle position
the problem w/ the wot switch is that the boost can be 22-25 without the pedal even 3/4 of the way. it needs the water at 22psi so it cant be dependent on throttle position
It needs to be half throttle or so so you are serious and really need it! Even a dollar a gallon windshield washer fluid can add up in short order.
Race methanol is $4 a gallon!
Last edited by Choctaw Bob; Jul 4, 2004 at 06:57 PM.
I'm having some trouble with the combination of fittings I'm using. I also need some line. I wonder if braded steel line is really necessary since the mixture is not flamible. I think I may have some time Tuesday to buy that stuff. Then I need to set up a method to get pressure to the hobbs switch to set it. I have a bicycle pump and a gage I can plumb in to it.
I still think I need a throttle based switch and a dash switch for the system.
I also want a pressure gage on the line to see what I am actually getting. I can tape it to the top of the tool box temporairly.
Adapt an air compressor QD fitting to it, and set the regulator on the compressor to what you need.
Where did you branch the line from to your hobbs switch? The line to your boost gauge or the MAP sensor line?
Im taking some pictures of my meth system and will post them on here tonight. I will include the part numbers and brands of everything in the kit, dunno if anyone needs them/cares, but theyll be there in case.
Curious as to how you guys have your pumps wired in...
Do they kick on the minute you hit the arming switch, and stay on regardless of if it is flowing or not, or do you have them relayed in with the activation switches, so it only kicks on when it is flowing?
Has anyone else tried the water injection besides Bob, BigHoss, and myself?
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Curious as to how you guys have your pumps wired in...
Do they kick on the minute you hit the arming switch, and stay on regardless of if it is flowing or not, or do you have them relayed in with the activation switches, so it only kicks on when it is flowing?
Has anyone else tried the water injection besides Bob, BigHoss, and myself?
Mine will be wired through 3 switches and a relay. For it to come on, it will have to have the dash arming switch on; the switch that will come on at half throttle, and the hobbs switch that will come on with 22 pounds of boost.
All three will have to be on for the system to work.
I found an old floorboard headlight dimmer switch laying in the garage off my dad's old 78 F150. I think I might be able to install it in my floorboard as a master switch for all of my "performance" injection systems, ie. water, co2, (nitrous and propane later) so i can have everything set and ready when im going to be racing, and just hit the floorboard button to arm it at the tree (or at the redlights in town )
I found an old floorboard headlight dimmer switch laying in the garage off my dad's old 78 F150. I think I might be able to install it in my floorboard as a master switch for all of my "performance" injection systems, ie. water, co2, (nitrous and propane later) so i can have everything set and ready when im going to be racing, and just hit the floorboard button to arm it at the tree (or at the redlights in town )
I know if I make it too complicated I will be more than ever prone to mistakes which will make it even easier for you!
Messing with a bunch of controls at one time can get pretty confusing. I figure if I use the floorboard switch, I can run all of my injection and gearing controls (assuming I try one of those under/overdrive transmissions, i really like the idea of it, just lots of extra $$$ ) through it, and have everything set and ready when i need it. Just tap it with your foot and light it up Nothing to screw up on.
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