14 pan bolts could mean aod/4r70w/aode if its four speed or fmx obviously two speed. You could feel how many gears the tranny has when you move the gear selector lever. If its an aod(e) the pan with be square on one end but the other will kinda point at the top and bottom. The fmx is no doubt about it square.

I found this link to show you the pictures of the pan

http://store1.yimg.com/I/kdsperformance_1762_1071367

 

thanks it is an fmx. i got one from a guy i know and i did not know i had one already. what tranny would be the best to use the c5 or fmx i heard the fmx was the big daddy of strong trannies until the c6 came around.

 

In your case, the one that is in the best condition.


I don't have an honest opinion on either, I have not used either one. I did find this link that may help you some.

http://www.hotrodders.com/t19843.html

 

i personaly dont like the fmx because when i have had them they dont last near as long as a c4 let alone a c5. if you only lived closer id give you a c6 with a small block bell houseing im tired of it sitting around

 

ok i am going to use the c5 still but i neec to weld a cable bracket to the housing since this tranny did not come with a place to bolt it. i gutted one of the cats but could not get the plate to weld back in place since i cut too much off. but i did take the pipes to a small muffler shop and let them look at it. they said they could gut the other 2 cats and put a pipe to replace the resonator. i am going to have a good sounding car with flows. that is gonna sound good. he said 60 dollars to do the work. my shifter needs a longer cable. a 5 footer, that is the cable that came with the shifter but i never had it so i have to get it. or try to bootleg one with a cable off a bike or something .

 

So I guess your c5 checked out to be okay? Getting closer every day, your gonn have to put up a video link or something when your done. later

 

i did not take it yet but i know it worked fine when pulled and i hope it works since it has not been used for a while. it moves a little. but so does my aod's. i got the motor out today but i need a ds motor mount and they are 126 at the ford place. it is a dealer item. the parts places will not be able to get them. that sucks. i need a tranny mount too.

 

Well I guess $126 to swap a motor and trans isn't too bad. later

 

dang my friend bought his dad's buik skylark with a 454. his dad built it. that thing nearly comes off the ground. it doesn't even have positrac yet and it squats like hell. i wanna 460

 

Gonna have to put a fire under the t-bird if you wanna keep up. haha. later

 

started taking apart the truck motor. i took the carb and intake off so that i can clean up the corrosion. what is the easiest way to clean it and what cleans it good. it is not bad but i wanna make it look new again. the lifter valley is clean still. that's good

 

I use castrol super clean. YOu have to dilute it with water, in this case I would dilute it more than usual. If your not careful and use too strong a solution, then it may turn your intake and carb white. You could test it on the bottom, I usually mix up a little and use Q-tips, its that easy, rub it on and the junk comes off, wipe it with a clean rag and its clean. I have also been told that mag wheel cleaner does a good job, since mag wheels are aluminum, that makes sense. I would test what ever product you get on a small area to be sure its not gonna turn your intake and carb white. I am sure there are other products but that is all I have used with ease. Later

 

i am going to try and fix the motor mount. i got my motor out and the intake was cleaned with what i had. turtle wax and diesel. it works pretty good.

 

Yeah diesel will do the job. Whats wrong with the motor mount?

 

the rubber is comming off of the metal. i wanna drill 2 holes across from each other in the metal and rubber and put long bolts and washers on it. i have no money and it is 126 each for the mount. i need it going soon.