That is the original Wagner Lockheed kit number. You probably don't want an original stock kit as the seals may have deteriorated. Additionally, a generic 1 1/2 bore kit marketed as a Wagner Lockheed K-5379 replacement may not be of the best quality and have a less than desirable fit, and some even skip out on what is included. Heck, even more reputable kits by named brands have these issues, including fitment especially if the wheel cylinder is of a different name brand. Hence my recommendation to go with a complete cylinder to avoid headaches on such a critical system. Thinking further on you every penny counts budget, if going the kit route, you need to factor in the copper crush washers - the 91A-2149 with a .45" inner diameter and a .69" outer diameter - which are not reusable. They are generally included with the new wheel cylinders. A few bucks here, some shipping there, and all the sudden, the kit savings over new cylinders significantly diminishes or even evaporates. This is not even considering additional costs incurred if the kits are duds or a cylinder is found not to be salvageable.

Going back to the generic kits, many pictured on the internet auction site seem to show pictures of NAPA parts - when looked up, things don't quite line up:

UP 725 for the cups - 1 1/2 bore - plausible
UP 5975 for the boot - Interestingly a bore diameter listed as 1 3/8 and not 1 1/2... this should set off some well deserved skepticism.

 

I cant afford new wheel cylinders and a cheap kit is probably better than me making my own new seals.

 

It looks to me like new wheel cylinders might be available for $20 or even less. What are the kits going to end up costing? Brakes are critical. They have to work every time. I wouldn't try to cut costs when it comes to brake parts. Find somewhere else to save a few dollars.

Jim

 

The wrong parts are the wrong parts regardless if cheap or DYI... and brakes are a CRITICAL SYSTEM impacting SAFETY! Save up and do this right.

Reiterated: A few bucks here, some shipping there, and all the sudden, the kit savings over new cylinders significantly diminishes or even evaporates. This is not even considering additional costs incurred if the kits are duds or a cylinder is found not to be salvageable.

Really, $24.79 a cylinder is breaking your budget? Kits on the internet auction site with boots, cups and springs are $14 or so... add on the copper crush washer, shipping and taxes and and it just doesn't make much sense...

 

Hey @DieselDog409 , if you don't have a shop manual already, see if you can work something out here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...this-rare.html

 

You can download a free master parts catalog from here: https://charpindustries.com/diagrams/
It's not the shop manual, but it is a great resource.

 

i got all the parts for the brakes for $25 on ebay including new cups, washers, boots, and springs.

 

Also should i move the 12v battery to the engine bay, or get new cables made for it? This truck has 2 electrical systems, a positive ground 6volt, and a positive ground 12volt.
12v runs the air horn, fuel pump, and starter, while the 6v runs everything else and is fitted with a gm 10-si alternator that i converted to 6v positive ground when the old generator nearly burnt the truck to the ground.

 

and how should i rig up an alternator for the 12 volt battery as it never had one and was put on the charge overnight while in service.

 

also should i fix the rust holes or leave them?

 

does anyone have a dash harness as mine has no insulation and is hacked up.

 

A few thoughts:

Wiring Harness
Application specific wiring harnesses are available, but I'm guessing the pricing will shock you and is out of your budget. This is an example of what is out there:

https://www.lmctruck.com/1948-56-for...wiring-harness

There are also generic vehicle wiring harnesses, but usually they are undersized for 6V systems and requires a lot of reengineering the electric system. An example:

https://www.ezwiring.com/wiring-kits-switches

Being that a manufactured replacement may be cost prohibitive, you can always repair your existing. Just be sure to get something that is pure copper, of the proper gauge per the original wiring diagram, and marketed and rated for automotive/marine use.

FInally, chances are any used harness you can obtain undoubtedly will also require refurbishment.

6V vs 12V
I generally find refreshing your existing 6V system is more cost effective than a 12V conversion and just as reliable. First, 12 being a higher number than 6 doesn't make it "better". The engineers knew what they were doing and many of the 12V conversion "success stories" using fresh parts would have been as successful and reliable if done as a stock 6V system as well. First ask your self, why convert? In your case, it seems your engine and whatnot is operating with the current 6V setup, your cost sensitivity is yet more reason to leave it be.

12V Charging
The disparate voltage systems on your truck is fine, and I'd leave the 12V battery where it is. If you are wanting maintain to charge it from the engine, I would investigate an appropriately rated isolated boost transformer instead of rigging a second alternator. Likely more cost effective as well.

Rust Patching
Opinions and goals will differ here, but I would suggest focusing on getting the truck reliability operable and roadworthy first. Generally, there is no point putting a great deal of time, money, and effort into cosmetics on a project that doesn't show promise of operating. If you wanted to do something in the meantime, I'd take some steps to prevent rust from getting worse. This can include fluid film and bar and chain oil on the underside, and some linseed oil based concoction on the body:

You Tube

 

Looking at cost and since your "six volt generator nearly burned the truck up" I would convert to 12V. 12V alternators needed for the conversion are cheaper than a 6 jor 12
V generator. You indicate your wiring is a mess so do it right. A basic wiring system and conversion is not that difficult.

 

"Also should i move the 12v battery to the engine bay, or get new cables made for it? This truck has 2 electrical systems, a positive ground 6volt, and a positive ground 12volt.
12v runs the air horn, fuel pump, and starter, while the 6v runs everything else and is fitted with a gm 10-si alternator that i converted to 6v positive ground when the old generator nearly burnt the truck to the ground."

The closer the battery is to the power source, the better. Interesting that you converted the GM alternator to six volt positive ground. Perhaps the truck almost burned up due to a mismatch wiring?

 

For those confused about the 6V GM alternator that OP likely used, there are inexpensive kits like this available: