Hello again. If your budget is truly $500, that isn't going to get you much further than having the valves ground and hardened seats for the exhaust valves. In my case, I let the machine shop decide what was needed and source the parts. The shop did the measurements and decided what was in spec and what wasn't. I only purchased what was needed, and the shop had the responsibility for ordering the correct parts.

You mentioned the intriguing possibility of swapping in a different carb. An unintended consequence of making a change like that is that the stock distributor is engineered to work with the stock carb. If you change one, you have to change both. A different carb and a different distributor very likely would take most of your budget...And if you had a 4bbl carb, the next logical step would be duel exhaust...and it could go on and on...

Get your truck running and driving. You're 16. You have lots of time for modifications and the extra $$ involved. When I was 16, my dad taught me how to drive on my truck. I didn't get around to rebuilding the engine until I was 70. LOL.

Jim

 

Ok I will modify it later and focous on the rebuild, I want to modify it now because i dont know when my Inherited cancer will show itself and screw up my plans.

 

So look at your project as an investment. This old man believes a well-maintained apparatus as you have would be more valuable as a good stock original than something that has been cobbled.

 

DieselDog, the reason it is so hard to find information and parts for these engines is because they were fairly unpopular with hot rodders back in the day. The reason for that is because they were simple utilitarian engines for average cars, and of course there were/are better engines around more suitable for modification.

The others are telling you to disregard modifying the engine to save money and spare you from a difficult learning curve. I'm suggestion you not modify the engine because if people in 1960 couldn't justify it, we sure as hell can't today lol

There are some scattered people who have modded 223's, but it's very rare and the parts are rare if they exist at all.
There are pictures of a turbo 223 floating around on the net, from what I'm told they were taken in the mid 70's lol. That's about it.
Performance cams don't exist and must be ground from scratch.
Performance cranks don't exist from what I can tell.
Performance rods must be taken from another motor and adapted to work.
Same with performance pistons and most likely valvetrain.

Get it running and forget about it. The engine isn't worth the trouble of a "performance build"; I drive one daily, they get you from point-a-to-b.

 

Ok will do.

 

Although i will make a header for it as the log manifold is cracked.

 

NO, the oil comes from a port in the block just above a cam bearing. The hole in the head is just to get the tube to the port in the block. You will see this when you remove the side push rod cover..

 

Ok i think both of us are giving our best guess but dont entirely know. so anyone else have a diagram?

 

Some of us have worked on a few more of these than yourself. Here is the oil flow diagram

 

Do not underestimate the vast knowledge base on this forum. A few of us have been into these old engines.

 

This is the correct information ^^^^^^^

 

Ok i wasn't doubting you i was just wanting to confirm who was right, because no matter how much experience you have you can still be wrong or make a mistake.
Everyone does it from time to time, it is part of what makes us human.

 

Ray, your sage advice given reminds me of a famous quote by Darth Vader he makes to an underling. "Do not underestimate the Force."
https://www.google.com/search?q=dart...id:L4EdtpCvF8I

 

Man when are you gonna post some pictures of this beast, both the engine and the truck!!!!?!?!?!?!

 

Good point! How did we get to post #73 before we started asking for pictures? We normally ask for them in one of our first responses. We love pictures of trucks and parts and pieces of trucks.