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Just for comparison, this is what my valve train looked like the first time the valve cover was pulled. The engine had about 80,000 miles on it and was pretty well worn out. I would think though, being a military truck, it would have been serviced regularly. For the rebuild, I believe all the various parts of the valve train ended up within spec and were reused.
Just for comparison, this is what my valve train looked like the first time the valve cover was pulled. The engine had about 80,000 miles on it and was pretty well worn out. I would think though, being a military truck, it would have been serviced regularly. For the rebuild, I believe all the various parts of the valve train ended up within spec and were reused.
Jim
ps Correction. Some of the valves were replaced.
Ok my oil tubes are rusted through in multiple spots, and i already took the top end apart and cleaned the 1 in deep sludge out of the head and put it back together. Ok wow only 80,000 miles, mine has over 150,000 miles and still pulls strong. I will make new tubes out of fuel line that i have laying around.
(Ooh Glass fuel bowl)
I did some digging over the weekend (Friday evening) and it still has the orignal ford distributor cap. Also i didn't drop the pan over the weekend as i got sick on saturday-sunday and i was shocked as i thought even viruses had standards. Guess not.
OK, read some more and i think my current oil tubes are homemade as they had no o-ring or retainers for one and were the same size as the fuel line on the truck.
I found some better pictures of the sludge in my engine. As mentioned, I didn't have to replace any of the valve train parts in the rebuild. Everything was just cleaned up and re-used. Good luck fabbing up replacement oiling tubes. Hopefully you'll be up and running again and be able to stay within your budget.
I'm no expert and can't comment on how important the o-ring seal is on the oiling tubes. I do remember that there are little metal clips that hold the tubes in place. The clips keep the tubes from moving, not the o-ring seals. It's likely though that the oil is moved through the tubes by vacuum or pressure, in which case, some type of seal will be required.
the pressureized oil goes through a port in the head through the mounts for the valvetrain and is returned with engine pressure through the the tubes into the pan. also when i run out of cash i make stuff out of scrap for parts i need.
The quality of oil was not very good back then, sludge was a common find on older engines that did not get regular oil changes or rarely run for long distances at normal engine temps.
what if i pulled off the oil return tubes and let the oil return through the holes in the head where the tubes would normally run through bypassing the need for tubes at all?
what if i pulled off the oil return tubes and let the oil return through the holes in the head where the tubes would normally run through bypassing the need for tubes at all?
the return line drip oil on the cam/distributor gear. It's there for a reason, but back in the day guys would crimp them shut to distribute oil to the rockers instead. They did this because the rocker shaft is completely coked up with byproduct of poor oil
the return line drip oil on the cam/crank gear. It's there for a reason, but back in the day guys would crimp them shut to distribute oil to the rockers instead. They did this because the rocker shaft is completely coked up with byproduct of poor oil
In case it wasn't clear for those who find their way here, this was a questionable band aid and not advisable to actually do on anything one cares about.
