When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I work with PDF 99% of the time, and it would appear that I cannot convert/save PDF to another format without extra software. Not urgent.
I've attached a diagram that you posted a while back, simply to illustrate that the drawing of the coil wiring on the right could have been drawn better.
It looks like only 1 wire comes off the coil, and to a person starting out on the electrical learning curve, it could be confusing. (Confusing as in ''Where's the other wire ?)
I'm pretty impressed with my first time 'art'. LOL
The following comments are for consideration on +/- Monday, not before, coz between now and +/- Monday you'll be spending quality time with your family.
Looking at the cut wires in picture 1 and 2, picture 1 looks to be a possible candidate.
It looks open ended, and seeing as we're looking for the cause of the 6v to 12v to 6v etc issue, did you happen to notice what is was close to whilst removing the wrapping ?
All 3 cut wires were blunt-cut and the end wrapped in black tape. They were then tucked back into the harness and the harness was taped. Nothing was close to a grounding point.
When you remove the rest of the wrapping, do it in good light, do it slowly, and look for issues.
Once done, clean all of the wires and check for issues again.
What is the black box jammed in between the dizzy and radiator hose ?
It's the electrical connector for the dizzy to engine harness.
Looking at picture 3, at the very bottom, where the wires meet the connector, is that a huge slice across 1 or 2 wires exposing some wire ? Easier to tell when they've been cleaned maybe.
No, it's frayed electrical tape.
Hopefully the shop manual will tell us if the wire in picture 4 is a resistor wire or not.
Neither my Engine nor my Electrical Ford Service Manuals have an engine wiring diagram and I haven't found one elsewhere yet for Solid State Ignition.
The shop manual wiring diagram might also help us to determine why someone cut so many wires in the first place, like the red/brown wires in picture 4.
A wiring diagram would help answer several questions!
What's the thick cable for in picture 4 ? (park brake?)
Throttle cable
Hope everyone had an enjoyable and safe Turkey Day! I'm back with an update. There are also some responses to earlier questions in the quote above.
I removed the loom from the wire harness that runs from the front of the engine along the top of the drivers-side intake towards the firewall, further exposing the 3 cut wires found previously. All 3 were blunt-cut and the end wrapped in electrical tape. They are identified as follow:
*Large-diamter black/yellow dragonal hash. Voltage in Run: 0
*Red/yellow diagonal hash. Voltage in Run: 11.75
-both of these were found cut approximately midway along the valve cover, near the carb
-thinking out loud:electric choke?
*White/black stripe cut in the vicinity of the coil and dizzy. Voltage in Run: 0
The red/yellow and black/yellow wires were both damaged under the black tape that was around the entire harness. The black/yellow wire appeared to be deformed by (heat?) and the red/yellow had missing insulation/exposed strands. The two seemed almost fused together but when I pulled them apart and examined then closely I didn't see any evidence of shorting. See pic 1 below.
I traced the red/light green wire from the + side of the coil back to a flat 4-pin connector at the rear of the engine near the firewall. See pic 2.
The description of the wires in this plug, from left to right:
#1 red/white, 0 volts in Run, goes to coolant temp sensor
#2 red/yellow, 0 volts in Run, goes to oil pressure sensor
#3, red/light green, 11.74 volts in Run, goes to + side of coil. There is also a brown wire coming out that turns into pink at another connector, which is the pink wire that connects to nowhere at the control module.
#4, red/yellow hash, 11.74 volts in Run, this is one of the cut wires. There are two wires on the inlet (firewall) side.
Also, interestingly enough, both of the wires in the other 2-wire connector in that photo are two of the three wires that were cut (the larger diameter black/yellow and the white/black that both have 0 volts at Run and both cut at the same place in the harness, midway along the intake on the drivers side).
There are several feet of loomed wire harness from the inlet side of the 4-prong flat plug to the fuse panel that I did not expose. This harness appears to be wrapped and installed from Ford. On the far end of this harness the red/light green wire from the coil reappears and goes into the back of the fuse panel. See pic 3. The red/green wire is the middle of the 3 reds.
There are some electrical connectors in the fuse panel area that has the bigger black/yellow hash wire that looks like the same one that is cut on top of the engine. The same plug has the white/blue wires that connect to the control module. I didn't go any further or do anything more with these. See pic 4.
A wiring diagram would be a big help to me at this point. I feel the connectors with the white/blue wires from the control module and the black/yellow wire (pic 4) are a piece of this but can't make the connection (pun intended) in my head.
I'm not sure where exactly to go from here. It seems I either need to find where the connection to the ballast resistor (wire) is made to the red/green coil wire, or follow Ford's trouble shooting and check the resistance wire at the ignition switch which is no mean feat but doable.
I won't ask your thoughts, 6 by 8. I've got a good idea what at least some of them are. But what do you glean from all this, and where would you suggest going from here??
Hope everyone had an enjoyable and safe Turkey Day! Yes, thank you, and same to you.
#3, red/light green, 11.74 volts in Run, goes to + side of coil. There is also a brown wire coming out that turns into pink at another connector, which is the pink wire that connects to nowhere at the control module.
That makes perfect sense. Can you post up a picture of the brown wire connection to the red/light green wire ? The brown wire should be 0v in run, and 12v during start, but we'll come back to this.
(Hmmm, you'd measured 12v at the pink wire previously !!??)
Look at the wiring diagram in a recent post, and you'll see that it matches perfectly.
#4, red/yellow hash, 11.74 volts in Run, this is one of the cut wires. There are two wires on the inlet (firewall) side.
Please tape up the exposed wiring.
I took headache tablets after reading your post, but they had no effect.
I called my Doc and he said that I need to be put on a drip, and he can only do that later.
Once I'm connected I'll come back to this thread.
It's a shame that we couldn't find a clue as to what caused the 12v, 6v, 12v, 6v, readings.
We also mustn't lose sight of the fact that the current wiring seemed to work 100% fault free until tinkering commenced on the dizzy.
Have you received the Standard Motors p/n RW34 resistor wire yet ?
I don't think we're far off from hearing the four words we've been waiting to hear for a while now.
When you remove the rest of the wrapping, do it in good light, do it slowly, and look for issues. Once done, clean all of the wires and check for issues again.
Hello ? WTF didn't you understand about the bold underlined bit ??
You know the drill. Guess where you need to be on Friday at 4pm !!
If you look at pictures 1 and 2 back in post 199, one can see 6 (?) wires.
If we look at picture 1 in your recent post, it looks like maybe 3, or maybe 4, or maybe 5 wires.
FFS !
Please clean up those wires and post up a picture which shows all 6 (?) wires.
What wire is going to the coil - ? Is it the green with yellow dots wire which one can see in your recent picture 2 ?
Where does the orange wire in picture 2 go to ? I don't see it anywhere else or in post 199.
I'm starting to wonder if the OP converted from a ''conventional'' points system to a ''solid state'' non points system, but I can't tell just yet.
And just for info, I've been connected up to a headache tablet drip.
But get this, the clever Doc installed a valve which switches from the medicine section to a coffee section. Cool huh !
It's a shame that we couldn't find a clue as to what caused the 12v, 6v, 12v, 6v, readings.
We also mustn't lose sight of the fact that the current wiring seemed to work 100% fault free until tinkering commenced on the dizzy. I keep thinking about this and can’t make the connection how dizzy work could cause a problem with the ballast resistor??
Have you received the Standard Motors p/n RW34 resistor wire yet ? I got the call it was in stock but have not picked it up.
I don't think we're far off from hearing the four words we've been waiting to hear for a while now. And exactly what are those words? I can think of several phrases at the moment, beginning with “Let’s get this done!”
Hello ? WTF didn't you understand about the bold underlined bit ??
You know the drill. Guess where you need to be on Friday at 4pm !! The first picture was taken immediately after uncovering that section BEFORE doing anything else (separating, inspecting, cleaning, then taping the bare wire). Most of the other pics are after cleaning. You gotta remember this is 47, almost 48 year old wiring. I’m cleaning it the best I can but can only do so much. I’m using 91% isopropyl alcohol and cotton *****. Let me know if you know something more effective.
Guess Hank will need to cool his heels for awhile…
If you look at pictures 1 and 2 back in post 199, one can see 6 (?) wires.
If we look at picture 1 in your recent post, it looks like maybe 3, or maybe 4, or maybe 5 wires.
FFS !
Please clean up those wires and post up a picture which shows all 6 (?) wires. You can see all wires in some other shots but I’ll post better ones.
What wire is going to the coil - ? Is it the green with yellow dots wire which one can see in your recent picture 2 ? Yes
Where does the orange wire in picture 2 go to ? I don't see it anywhere else or in post 199. I don’t recall offhand. I’ll look again and post back with some more pics.
I'm starting to wonder if the OP converted from a ''conventional'' points system to a ''solid state'' non points system, but I can't tell just yet. Hmmmm. Maybe but I don’t think so only because the wiring harness from the ignition control module and related electrical connectors looks factory.
And just for info, I've been connected up to a headache tablet drip.
But get this, the clever Doc installed a valve which switches from the medicine section to a coffee section. Cool huh ! Can you switch the coffee for beer? Then you would REALLY be onto something!
As usual see my comments inside the quotes. There are other “life events” today, but I will post more pics and any additional observations before the end of the day.
I’m still trying to wrap my head around HOW working on the dizzy could have affected the ballast resistor…
So here are the 3 pics you’ve asked for: 2 at the same angle as post 199 and the connection between the brown and red/green wires (at the flat plug).
I’m a little surprised you haven’t asked about the crimped butt connectors on the upstream side of the flat pin connector. Years ago I replaced the stock idiot light dash cluster with the proper Ford OEM instrument cluster from a GT. The butt connectors are where I spliced into the red/green coil wire for the tach. (Not how I’d splice today but it works). The tach has always worked during this whole months-long odyssey even though that wire has had 2 different voltages on it. FWIW.
The orange wire you asked about is one of the two wires (the other is purple) from the magnetic pick-up.
The white wire with a black line which was cut near the coil, may have been to an electric choke, or to the voltage regulator.
This 1975 diagram comes from the same site as the 1974 I posted earlier for points ignition. I’ve been ignoring anything but 1974. The voltage regulator is on the radiator support. This wire must be the electric choke on the OEM carb. The Holley replacement has manual choke. I sure don’t remember what I did in 2008 but that’s probably my handywork on that one. That leaves two more to account for…
I’m a little surprised you haven’t asked about the crimped butt connectors on the upstream side of the flat pin connector.
LOL, I mentioned them in post 203, but didn't ask a specific question at that time.
I was going to ask at some point, but you've just answered the upcoming question.
Those pictures are great. Thank you, and sorry that you had to remove the HT leads yet again.
The reason I'm asking you for so many photos and so many details is because that's what I'd be doing if we were face to face or if I was working on my own electrical system.
(Ok, I wouldn't be asking for photos, but you know what I mean.)
I'm also asking because I want to understand why the PO made changes !!
Picture 1
Referring to picture 1, and pages 1 and 4 in the attached, we can confirm that the green wire (coil- to ICM) is 100% correct.
The two red wires are confirmed.
The white wire can be looked at another time as it is not part of the ignition wiring.
I expected to see 3 wires coming out of the dizzy, not 4.
Where does the far right wire go to ?
The 3 (4?) wires leaving the dizzy all appear to be the same color, black.
If that's the case, how did you know which ones to connect to the different colored wires in the OE harness ?
You haven't finished unwrapping the wiring !!!! How do you know what's awaiting us underneath ???
Oh dear, you can't get out of this one, Friday 4pm it is then. LMAO
Gawd you’re a taskmaster but OK, how are these? And we’ll talk about Hank time, later, during wrap-up, and hopefully that’s sooner than later!
There are 3 wires coming out of the dizzy. The 4th one you saw is a capped wire you can see in these pictures. That connector plug is one I had to adapt for this use so there is an extra unused wire.
That looks like an assumption to me. Hmm. Add 8am to 4pm on Saturday to your detention list.
Yes it's an all day event coz we covered assumptions already. *****! In my defense it wasn’t an assumption it was not reading for full comprehension. I went back to see
what you said (because I was certain you said it “was” one or the other) and saw where you said it “may” be one or the other.
The electric choke doesn't show in the 1974 diagram, but does in the 1975 one.
That said, and while we're here, what color wires leave the regulator. (This will tell us if it's a 74 or 75 model. We know it should be 74.)
Our last posts crossed. The voltage regulator is tucked behind the battery and not convenient to get to. Here’s a pic.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
Easier to tell when they've been cleaned maybe.
)
