While I was sippin' on coffee looking at you recent pics, I was wondering if there's an easier way of communicating with you.

I know it can be done because I've seen it done.
I played around a bit, pushing buttons, like this , and guess what, I have a new toy to play with.

You're about to see a flurry of posts.

I'll post one picture at a time, and use numbers with comments.

We can then reply to, and discuss, specific posts, one at a time. That will hopefully get rid of confusions, and be a lot easier to follow.

I thought that the wiring running along the fender from the ICM had been worked on by someone previously, and that's why I wanted to open it up (stage 2).

Now that you have said it is actually factory wrapped, with an aftermarket wrap over it, fine, we can ignore it.

The next, and probably last job, is simply measuring voltage at several points to confirm what we think.

We can't start the day without you know who : https://giphy.com/gifs/ussoccer-danc...OpJRJMhRPGqUsE

 

We have 2 circuits in the ignition system, 1 is 12v start, and 1 is 6v run. (Let's pretend for now that it really is 6v)

We know that both circuits are working because the engine runs, so that's a good starting point.

Today, we're not looking for a problem, we're simply looking to make sure we 100% understand what wire is doing what.

The following picture did not need numbers, but I have a new toy, and everything is getting numbers ! LOL

This is the start circuit and the wires are red/brown stripe, or, pink/brown stripe. You can clarify which color we should use in your reply.

The wires with question marks are the ones I've been questioning because I cannot see where they are going, and don't know their purpose.

This number 3 wires provides 12v to the coil during start only.

I wonder if the ? wires are ending up at the ICM white start wire.

Please test the male and female pins in start and run, and post up your findings.

I expect 0v in run and 12v in start at the female side, and 12v (6v when fixed) in run and 0v in start in the male side.

 

These wires are being ignored because we already proved that they are not part of the ignition system.

 

Hopefully the voltage tests in post 287 will confirm this :




Wire 3 is the brown wire that's been my bone of contention.

 

Yes, I agree, based on your previous postings which stated the same.

Doing voltage tests in start and run along those circuits will 100% confirm though.

Until recently, I've been stating that the brown wire, 4, connects to the pink wire, 5, thinking it was the ICM pink wire, 6. Wrong !!




I think that the pink wire, 5, above, ends up at the red wire, 7, below, via the yellow/blue dots wire.

 

Mrs 6 by 8 just walked by and asked me why I'm only using one color.

Hmm, I didn't know I had a choice, so I looked, and I found another toy, as illustrated :

 

You have the confidence and competence to test the start and run circuit voltages.

Once you've posted up your findings, we can correct any incorrect thoughts, fully understand the wiring, and proceed straight to fitting the new resistor wire.

You asked how a resistor wire can lose it's resistance properties. I have no idea, but will simply assume wear and tear given the age of the wiring.

I would expect to see something like, 6v, then 7v, then 8v, etc, all the way up to 12v. I.E. A gradual deterioration.

But instead we saw 12v, 6v, fluctuations, and I must admit, that's still niggling at me.

Regardless, if your observations confirm 12v everywhere in the 6v circuit, then 12v it is. Period.

If that were my pickup, I wouldn't want to spend hours f$$king around under the dash, or wherever.

I prefer the idea of easy access, and a 10 minute job, and I have an idea, subject to your test results.

In the meantime, I asked Mr Happy Dance Man what he thought of my artwork thus far, and he replied with : https://giphy.com/gifs/ussoccer-danc...OpJRJMhRPGqUsE

 

Nice job with the editing tool. I’ve thought along the same lines but hadn’t invested the time to do anything.

Here’s the fly in this ointment: the 3 wire is the spliced-in tach wire so it has to have 6v power in Run. I “think” that wire is coming from the ignition switch through the resistor and would be 0 volts in Start and 6v in Run. Power to the coil in Start would come from the yellow wire in the harness that connects to the ICM white wire, but I don’t know exactly how. In Run the power is switches to the yellow/blue dot. But I could be totally wrong, too.

I’ll perform the tests you describe in your preceding posts and get back. It may not be for a day or so.

Thanks for hanging in there with me on this!

 

I wish I'd learned about that tool weeks ago, would have made life sooooooo much easier.

I was convinced that brown/pink wire was the starting circuit, but only because I relied on the 1975 diagram. No more.

It also makes sense that it is in fact the run circuit, especially after you explained the tach attachment in an earlier post.

Ok, so the brown wire looks like it is the start circuit.

The tests will tell us EXACTLY what is what.

I'm just about done with my informal medical studies, which was prompted by the Covid virus and associated BS that came with it.

So, FWIW.

The vaccine is not a vaccine. Period. It is a test 'something'.

Natural immunity keeps being ignored by the mainstream BS media, and for 90+ % of us, that's all we need.

Regardless of vaccine status, consider taking a daily supplement of 4,000iu vitamin D3, 50ug of vitamin K2, and 10 - 15 mg zinc.

Those amounts are well within the safe limits that our bodies can take without side effects.

Combined they will ensure our immune systems are as strong as Mike Tyson. Not just for the O moronic cron virus, but any virus, like flu.

An additional benefit of D3 is that it can soften the harshness of arthritis and dermatology issues like psoriasis.

Thanks for giving us a day or two off.

 

You didn't state if I could have the rest of today off, and I wanted to play with my new toy anyway.

The run + start circuits work, we know that.

All we want to do is get 6v to the coil, and you have a spare ICM if we need to use it, so, here's an idea :

Test the voltages here only. White should be 0v in run and 12v in start. Red should be 12v in run and 0v in start.




If the above voltage readings are correct, we can cut the red wire and simply install the resistor wire (pink below but black in real life) between the cut wires :




Using your shop manual diagram, it shows that you should have this :




We know that the blue wire doesn't exist, so we'd end up with this : (Red to green, which we have already verified. The white is my attempt at erasing the original lines drawn.)




Temp wiring will take 5 minutes.

Test the resistor wire before fitting it to ensure that it is in fact +/- 1.4 ohms.

If the engine shows 6v at the coil in run, fire it up !!

If the 'funny' behavior has gone, Houston we have ignition, and you can make the wiring permanent.

If I'm totally wrong, and your engine catches fire, umm, oops, sorry. LOL

Can I take the rest of the day off ?

 

Yea by all means get outta here! Go away but come back. I understand your concept but need to look at your drawings closer to understand them. I WILL be back, just not today and only maybe tomorrow. I’ve already enlisted Mrs. GS! for her help cranking the engine as needed. Following cranking voltage will be helpful for me to solidify my understanding. Yours too I think.

 

Thank you Boss.

 

Whilst having coffee earlier this morning, I decided to look at the 1975 diagram one last time, but this time, use my new found toy.

Until now I've been looking at the diagrams on a screen, and had to keep switching between the diagrams. Bloody difficult to follow them.

The fact that your actual wire colors don't match the diagram colors didn't help.

Anyway, using different colors, I summarized where to fit the resistor wire, admired my work, felt very clever, and went out to have breakfast with Mrs 6 by 8.

I thought I'll post up the pics when I come back so as to give you a one page summary which should really clarify your understanding.

This page shows where the wires feed to the ignition switch. Simple enough.



This page is very useful and shows where the new resistor wire is to be fitted, top left red arrow :



Wow ! 6 by 8 is the man ! 6 by 8 fixed the wiring issue !

No, he certainly did not.

6 by 8 is a f$$king idiot and gave you stupid, really stupid, really, really, bad advice.

Things have been niggling at me throughout this thread, and just as I was getting ready to post up my latest 'artwork' one question came to mind.

Why are we testing the wiring ?

So I traveled back into the abyss to find out.

More comments to follow, but the most important comment for now is, ''YOUR WIRING IS 100% OK, AND THAT INCLUDES THE EXISTING RESISTOR WIRE'' .

 

What a way to leave a cliffhanger. I have no clue what epiphany you’ve had but I am dying here to hear what you have to say next.

Finding the resistor wire good wouldn’t be a surprise. It’s way too “coincidental” it went bad while working on the ignition system, and how could it fail in an on-again off-again fashion? I agree with your theory of failure as a slow gradual process.

Waiting… 🤔

 

Oops.sorry ! LOL I didn't expect you to pop in today, except maybe much later in the day.

I'm still red faced with embarrassment, and I thought I'd better prove it you, so here's a selfie :



I'm not sure exactly what's causing my right ear to swell like that.

Gonna make coffee then will return with lotsa waffle.