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These show the wire connections from the coil. Red/green is 2nd from the right on the male (bottom) part of the connector and corresponds with a direct connection to the female side. I called that electrical post #3 in prior posts. 1 and 2 are coolant and oil pressure sensors. 4 is the red/yellow cut wire with 12v at Run. It comes from (inlet side of plug) a separate wire loom. I don’t know what it is intended for but confident it’s not associated with ignition.
Did you physically follow the red/green wire from the male inner left plug to the coil + 5 minutes ago ?
I need to read that yes you did, or no you didn't. Please post up.
I fully understand ignition systems, and I know what I'm seeing.
Yes. I only know what I’ve learned here over the past several weeks but I know what I’m seeing (which is also documented in pictures) and I have not moved wire connections, only unplugged them for voltage tests.
The brown/red wire entering the female plug connects to the male coil + and brown wire. Agreed ? Yup
The brown/red wire is the starter circuit, so power only goes to the coil in start. Agreed ? Nope
So, with a key in run, power cannot get to the coil, and yet it does. See what I mean ? I would, if I agreed with the second statement above
I still contend that the red/green (you call it brown/red), the brown/pink and the pink wires all are 12v in Start and 6v in Run because of the switch in circuits from non-resisted to resisted at the ignition switch. I can’t explain the missing brown/pink wire from the second connector to the ignition switch, though.
The solid yellow wire on the ICM is 12v on Start while the yellow/blue is 0. The yellow goes to 0 and the yellow/blue wire goes 6v when switched from Start to Run. According to the 1975 diagram.
You’ll need to explain a different operational sequence to me that makes sense.
I’ve learned and learning but am SO ready to get this figured out and am SO anxious to see if it fixes the vac advance problem.
You must like punishment and that’s why you’ve stuck around. Even Hank is impressed!
If I knew then, what I know now, I would have run a mile from this thread. LOL
I entered this thread with the intention of helping you out with a, ummm, small problem.
We didn't know that it was gonna turn out to be 'not so small'. LOL some more.
Given that you've repeatedly made huge efforts, and followed logical paths as you learned, there's no way I could leave the party early. That would be disrespectful and down right pathetic.
I'll be here to shout the 4 words, and it will take as long as it takes.
That said, we can jump to stage 3 anytime as we've just about finished stage 1.
Stage 3 is replacing the resistor wire.
Stage 2 is a bit more fact finding in the engine wiring area.
Haha, I'm also keen to see how she runs with 6v to the coil.
Seeing the picture in post 255 on page 17, I thought that the pink wire, connecting to the brown wire in the plug, was coming directly from the ICM.
Seeing as there is no power going into the pink wire at the ICM, or so I thought, I then thought that no power could feed the brown wire.
I then thought that the coil + wire cannot possibly be going to the brown/pink wire, as that is a start only wire.
That sh$t's been niggling at me for a while.
Earlier today you corrected me and said that you had measured 12v at the pink wire. Given my last few sentences, I doubted it.
Fast forward to the earlier pictures in post 261, and I can now see that the brown to pink wire is indirect.
I have to assume that somewhere within the covered wiring running along the fender between the ICM plug and brown/green plug, there is powered supplied from 'somewhere'.
There has to be otherwise the engine wouldn't run.
Your PCV valve is only one half of the PCV (a.k.a. Positive Crankcase Valve) system.
Engine vacuum sucks crankcase gases out of it back into the carb, which end up out of the exhaust.
However, the engine needs fresh air to flow back in, so the oil filler cap needs to be one that has a nipple on it, to which a pipe is fitted, and connected to underneath your air filter.
I use something like this :
You could use something like this if preferred, which doesn't which doesn't need a pipe to the filter :
And as you said, a picture speaks a thousand words :
We've agreed that the 12v start system feeds 12v along the coil+ wire to the brown wire connection at the plug at start.
I still don't know where the 6v power source is coming from, but using the pics in post 261, here's what I'm thinking :
The brown wire is the actual 6v source, which connects to a pink wire in the brown plug. Top pic.
From there I think it runs somehow along the non-factory wrapped wiring in the lower pic to a yellow/blue dot wire which in turn connects to the red wire at the ICM.
No idea why there's so many different bloody colors.
Anyway, stage 2 would simply be identifying what is going on with the 6v supply, but it's optional and your choice.
Stage 3, as mentioned, would be replacing the resistor wire from the ignition to the firewall plug, assuming the existing wire is in fact resistor wire.
Hmm, putting the resistor wire in the stage 2 section could work and be a lot easier ?? Food for thought.
No, I hadn't forgotten about him, and here he is :
Your PCV valve is only one half of the PCV (a.k.a. Positive Crankcase Valve) system.
Engine vacuum sucks crankcase gases out of it back into the carb, which end up out of the exhaust.
However, the engine needs fresh air to flow back in, so the oil filler cap needs to be one that has a nipple on it, to which a pipe is fitted, and connected to underneath your air filter.
I use something like this :
You could use something like this if preferred, which doesn't which doesn't need a pipe to the filter :
And as you said, a picture speaks a thousand words :
I’ve never had this explained this way and it makes a lot of sense. I’m going to make some plumbing changes. Thanks!
The red/thin green stripe from the coil + to inner right male plug receives 12v in start, and 6v in run. We agree.
The brown/thin pink wire entering the other side of the plug, at the female side, is 12v start only. We agree. Look again. The brown/pink wire enters the plug on the male side. The wiring diagram shows it on the side you referenced, the female side. I puzzled over that for awhile the other day and decided it didn’t make a difference. What do you think?
I also think that wire is either/or 12 or 6v depending on Start or Run.
(I won't mention brown/red again, only brown/pink. The red/green wire has always been referred to as red/green.)
Seeing the picture in post 255 on page 17, I thought that the pink wire, connecting to the brown wire in the plug, was coming directly from the ICM.
Seeing as there is no power going into the pink wire at the ICM, or so I thought, I then thought that no power could feed the brown wire.
I then thought that the coil + wire cannot possibly be going to the brown/pink wire, as that is a start only wire.
That sh$t's been niggling at me for a while.
Earlier today you corrected me and said that you had measured 12v at the pink wire. Given my last few sentences, I doubted it.
Fast forward to the earlier pictures in post 261, and I can now see that the brown to pink wire is indirect.
I have to assume that somewhere within the covered wiring running along the fender between the ICM plug and brown/green plug, there is powered supplied from 'somewhere'.
There has to be otherwise the engine wouldn't run.
Does that make sense ?
From what I see the ICM is getting power from the yellow (white on ICM) wire in Start and yellow/blue dot (red on ICM) in Run. The question remains: where is the connection to the resistor wire to check it?
Do you see and agree those are the circuits?
I’ve posted this picture before and think there is something here. These plugs contain the white wire, white with blue dot, white with pink dot (?), and the thick black/white wire that was cut in the coil harness. Do these fit into the equation and if so, how?
We've agreed that the 12v start system feeds 12v along the coil+ wire to the brown wire connection at the plug at start. 6v on Run too I believe
I still don't know where the 6v power source is coming from, but using the pics in post 261, here's what I'm thinking :
The brown wire is the actual 6v source, which connects to a pink wire in the brown plug. Top pic. The brown wire is only a jumper between pink and red/green from what I see
From there I think it runs somehow along the non-factory wrapped wiring in the lower pic to a yellow/blue dot wire which in turn connects to the red wire at the ICM. It’s actually factory-wrapped harness covered by aftermarket loom.
No idea why there's so many different bloody colors.
Anyway, stage 2 would simply be identifying what is going on with the 6v supply, but it's optional and your choice. Stage 2 needs finding the physical resistor wire and/or where it connects to the red/green wire. Under the dash? In the engine compartment? Or of course, removing the instrument cluster to get to the ignition switch to test the resistance wire there per Ford procedures.
Stage 3, as mentioned, would be replacing the resistor wire from the ignition to the firewall plug, assuming the existing wire is in fact resistor wire. One of the first steps to replace the resistor wire is to cut and tape both ends of the old one. Sure would be nice to know where it is, and out my eyes 👀 on it!
Hmm, putting the resistor wire in the stage 2 section could work and be a lot easier ?? Food for thought.
No, I hadn't forgotten about him, and here he is :
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