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Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
Go Seahawks! is giving me a f$$king headache.
LOL
FFS stop fixating on 6v.
You don't have a ballast resistor (pic in post 233), you have resistor wire. (Just being specific.)
We've known for a while now that the resistance is an issue. (12v at the coil)
If you do the ignition test referred to in the last post, we'll still get 12v.
Chances are, if we swap in the new resistor wire between the ignition and connection in the fire wall, we'll have our 6v. There, sorted.
Had you not distracted yourself, you would have posted up the result to the starter wire test in post 242.
You've just stated no voltage at the male/exposed pins. It is logical now, but wasn't when I was thinking about it, and here's why :
Post 197 on page 14 : ''11.95 volts at the pink wire that doesn’t have a matching spade in the ICM socket''.
No, the pink wire we've been talking about is 0v in run. See below.
Post 213 on page 15 : ''#3, red/light green, 11.74 volts in Run, goes to + side of coil. There is also a brown wire coming out that turns into pink at another connector, which is the pink wire that connects to nowhere at the control module''.
I think this is incorrect, but see below.
We've wasted many hours so far because we were using useless, confusing, inaccurate, diagrams, and although the latest 1975 diagram is the most accurate, and somewhat helpful, it's still not great.
For example, the green ground wire from the coil - goes straight to the ICM in the diagram. In real life, as we can now see, it goes via a connector. Enough said.
I won't be using the diagram anymore, and will only use your actual wiring.
I see nice tidy (albeit temporary) wiring in that last picture.
I've been repeatedly suggesting that you unwrap wires so that we can see exactly what is going on, and that last picture is a good example.
We can now see that the pink wire meets the brown wire via a connector, and then connects to the start circuit via yet another connector.
Seeing as it's the starter circuit, it can never have power in run.
We can also see that the ICM ground black and green wires are connected within a connector, for what that's worth.
Most importantly we can see that the brown to pink circuit only gets power in start, and ends up in a dead end. (This might have been for seat belt overdrive relay.)
I've been talking sh$t for the last few pages because my thoughts were based on incorrect info.
Do you have a DeLorean parked in your garage ?
I ask because it's the only way I can think of, that you were able to travel ''back to the future'' and get 1975 wiring into your 1974 pickup.
That brings us to today's 'to do' list.
Please do the following without distractions, and without the ''Ghost of 6 volt past'' haunting you.
1/
The flat 4 pin connector reads 12v in run at the outer left (OL) and inner left (IL).
What does it read at the female Inner right (IR) in run ? (0v?)
2/
What does it read at female the OR in run ? (12v?)
3/
What does it read at the female IR in start ? (Yeah, we both know it will be 12v but do it anyway)
4/
Where EXACTLY does the OL wire go to ? (Coil + ?) (Follow this physically with your finger to make sure.)
5/
On the female side of the connector, you have joined wires to the red/brown stripe starter wires.
Where EXACTLY do they go ? Can you post a picture ? You said in post 229 these went to the Tach, but it doesn't make sense coming from the starter circuit.
Please post up the answers in a 1/ to 5/ format without quotes. (Keep it nice 'n neat.)
Several things are about to fall into place which will clarify/solidify your understanding.
Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
Go Seahawks! is giving me a f$$king headache.
LOL
FFS stop fixating on 6v.
You don't have a ballast resistor (pic in post 233), you have resistor wire. (Just being specific.)
We've known for a while now that the resistance is an issue. (12v at the coil)
If you do the ignition test referred to in the last post, we'll still get 12v.
Chances are, if we swap in the new resistor wire between the ignition and connection in the fire wall, we'll have our 6v. There, sorted.
Had you not distracted yourself, you would have posted up the result to the starter wire test in post 242.
You've just stated no voltage at the male/exposed pins. It is logical now, but wasn't when I was thinking about it, and here's why :
Post 197 on page 14 : ''11.95 volts at the pink wire that doesn’t have a matching spade in the ICM socket''. I just looked at that post. I had written: “With key in Run, taken at the disconnected harness plugs into the ICM…”. The readings were at the ICM plug, not the flat pin connector.
No, the pink wire we've been talking about is 0v in run. See below.
Post 213 on page 15 : ''#3, red/light green, 11.74 volts in Run, goes to + side of coil. There is also a brown wire coming out that turns into pink at another connector, which is the pink wire that connects to nowhere at the control module''.
I think this is incorrect, but see below. I’m not sure what you think is incorrect. The wire colors and connectors have been shown on pictures and the voltage has been verified several times.
We've wasted many hours so far because we were using useless, confusing, inaccurate, diagrams, and although the latest 1975 diagram is the most accurate, and somewhat helpful, it's still not great.
For example, the green ground wire from the coil - goes straight to the ICM in the diagram. In real life, as we can now see, it goes via a connector. Enough said.
I won't be using the diagram anymore, and will only use your actual wiring.
I see nice tidy (albeit temporary) wiring in that last picture.
I've been repeatedly suggesting that you unwrap wires so that we can see exactly what is going on, and that last picture is a good example.
We can now see that the pink wire meets the brown wire via a connector, and then connects to the start circuit via yet another connector.
Seeing as it's the starter circuit, it can never have power in run. I don’t agree. If I understand the sequence of operation and associated wiring, and I think I do, then that wire, as would all ignition-related wires (red/green + and green/white - at the coil and throughout that circuit) would have 12v in Start and 6v in Run, switched through the ignition switch. Where do you see it differently?
We can also see that the ICM ground black and green wires are connected within a connector, for what that's worth. Grouped in a plug but not physically connected. That would be a dead short.
Most importantly we can see that the brown to pink circuit only gets power in start, and ends up in a dead end. (This might have been for seat belt overdrive relay.) This is a point of debate between us.
I've been talking sh$t for the last few pages because my thoughts were based on incorrect info.
Do you have a DeLorean parked in your garage ?
I ask because it's the only way I can think of, that you were able to travel ''back to the future'' and get 1975 wiring into your 1974 pickup.
That brings us to today's 'to do' list.
Please do the following without distractions, and without the ''Ghost of 6 volt past'' haunting you.
1/
The flat 4 pin connector reads 12v in run at the outer left (OL) and inner left (IL). Clarification: outer right and inner right, i.e. #3 and #4. Copied from post 213 page 15: The description of the wires in this plug, from left to right: #1 red/white, 0 volts in Run, goes to coolant temp sensor #2 red/yellow, 0 volts in Run, goes to oil pressure sensor #3, red/light green, 11.74 volts in Run, goes to + side of coil. There is also a brown wire coming out that turns into pink at another connector, which is the pink wire that connects to nowhere at the control module. #4, red/yellow hash, 11.74 volts in Run, this is one of the cut wires. There are two wires on the inlet (firewall) side.
What does it read at the female Inner right (IR) in run ? (0v?) See above
2/
What does it read at female the OR in run ? (12v?) See above
3/
What does it read at the female IR in start ? (Yeah, we both know it will be 12v but do it anyway) See above
4/
Where EXACTLY does the OL wire go to ? (Coil + ?) (Follow this physically with your finger to make sure.) See above
5/
On the female side of the connector, you have joined wires to the red/brown stripe starter wires.
Where EXACTLY do they go ? Can you post a picture ? You said in post 229 these went to the Tach, but it doesn't make sense coming from the starter circuit. I’m sure you mean the red/green wire from the coil, that has the brown wire coming off it at the flat connector, then is splices into on the remake side of the connector for the tach.
Please post up the answers in a 1/ to 5/ format without quotes. (Keep it nice 'n neat.)
Several things are about to fall into place which will clarify/solidify your understanding.
Please see my responses buried in the quote above. I saw your ‘nice and neat’ comment at the very end. I could have answered it in the 1-5 format except we need to make sure we’re on the same page first on what voltage should be where and when. Also staying consistent with how we are identifying wires and connectors. See my thoughts and comments above and give me your feedback when you can.
I’ve learned and learning but am SO ready to get this figured out and am SO anxious to see if it fixes the vac advance problem.
You must like punishment and that’s why you’ve stuck around. Even Hank is impressed!
EDIT: I just reviewed my post and saw it is hard to decipher each of our posts within the quote because of all the italics. You’ll have to look at closely to be sure to pick up on everything I wrote. Sorry for that.
Pictures are worth thousands of words. Better than sending you a description of the connection point of the red/green coil +, here’s the picture that corresponds to each pin, in and out, of the flat connector it goes to. You can also see the brown/pink wire that is coming out of the male side of the connector.
Red/green coil wire is under the brown/pink wire that can be seen going over to the brown connector, where that wire connects to the pink wire coming from the ICM. On the flat connector the red/green wire connects to the same color wire coming from (ignition switch? Not confirmed. This circuit would be proven with the resistance wire test at the switch.). The tach splices are also shown.
This is a good picture of the ignition circuit including ICM and all associated wiring and connectors.
Ask away with any questions. I have and can provide close-ups of all the connectors.
I know where the pcv fitting is, but what I don't know, is why you haven't gone out to find out exactly where the coil + wire connects to the 4 pin connector.
I know where the pcv fitting is, but what I don't know, is why you haven't gone out to find out exactly where the coil + wire connects to the 4 pin connector.
I am genuinely confused by what you are asking for, unless you’re subtlety nudging me towards something. I sent the picture. It connects exactly on the second pin from the right which is what is feeding that wire it’s power, either 12 or 6 . At that connector it also ties in the brown/pink wire to send power to the ICM pink wire.
It connects exactly on the second pin from the right which is what is feeding that wire it’s power, either 12 or 6 . At that connector it also ties in the brown/pink wire to send power to the ICM pink wire.
The bold section is what I need confirmation on.
I know we read it back in post whatever, but I need to know today, NOW, if it is in fact connected as stated, hence my request for you to go out and double check in person.
If the coil + wire connects to the inner right, as believed at present, then I am at a loss, and am wasting your time, and I'll explain regardless.
If the coil+ wire actually goes to the pin I think it should be going to, then, bingo, I'm not an idiot and I'm not wasting time, and we can proceed with confidence.
If the coil + wire connects to the inner right, as believed at present, then I am at a loss, and am wasting your time, and I'll explain regardless.
If the coil+ wire actually goes to the pin I think it should be going to, then, bingo, I'm not an idiot and I'm not wasting time, and we can proceed with confidence.
And if it goes anywhere but where I’ve described then I’m the idiot. Wouldn’t be the first time here or any number of other places. I will go look right now and post back.
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