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Assuming your answers to post 226 are yes, please do the following :
Using picture number 2 in post 219 as the reference, please put the 3 cut wires to the right side of the valve cover. One is ostensibly the electric choke. What are the other two, and I’m especially curious about the big black/white one??
Please put the orange,black with blue dots, and black wires to the left of the valve cover. These are the 3 wires from the dizzy.
Put the remaining wires down the middle of the valve cover and post up a pic. Coil +, coil - and coolant temp sensor.
Or, if there are only 7 wires in total, just confirm that all 7 have been verified.
Then, please check which of the yellow wires connecting to the ICM plug feeds to the starter relay. (Yellow one or yellow with blue spots one, per page 1 of the recent attachment.
Then follow the other yellow one and see exactly where it goes to. These were answered in my post just prior to this one.
You might have to unwrap and follow wires all the way to the ignition key after all. We can follow wires but I’m not inclined to unwrap any more factory loom…
Why ???
Because we need to thoroughly check what we have/have not, so as to correctly supply the coil with 6v in run, and 12v in start. Might it not be time to check the resistance wire at the switch per the Ford manual?
Because we have cut wires, 1975 bits, and the wiring diagrams aren't 100% helpful.
Ah, your tach wiring is a new one on me. Can't argue that ! Thank you for the diagram.
Mine has only one wire, to coil -, but it is not OE.
I'm off to bed now and will check in again with my morning coffee.
Here is the pic of all 9 wires laid out. The left 3 are from the dizzy, 2 in the middle are from the coil and 1 is from the coolant temp sensor, and the right 3 have been cut.
Thank you very much for the latest detailed posts.
Please ensure that the damaged/exposed wire on the thick red/yellow diagonals wire is taped up, and then cable tie or tape the three cut wires safely and neatly out of the way.
(Note that the red/yellow wire is live in run !!)
Please replace the HT leads except for the coil HT lead. The coil HT lead can be reconnected when we're ready to fire up the engine.
I had asked you to make notes here and there. That was stupid and lazy of me.
I re-read the posts in the last few days, made notes, and will deal with them as we go along.
Recently I mentioned a 12v reading at the coil - post. Wrong ! Please read the short posts 197 +198 on page 14.
I incorrectly misunderstood the red/green wire.
When looking at your pictures, I only see a red wire with white or faded yellow stripe, whereas you will state that it's a green thin stripe on the red wire. This is the reason I asked for pictures etc coz I wanted to be safe, not sorry.
Does your vacuum pipe attach to the back of the carb, and then to the tranny and brake booster via the T ? (Just checking.)
I also reviewed the 1974 and 1975 wiring diagrams, yet again. The 1975 is far more relevant and useful.
I've been kind of fixated on the 6v/12v fluctuation issue, but not anymore.
That brings us up to today.
A while back we measured 12v at the ICM unused pink wire in the plug in run, but yesterday we realized that it plugs into a brown wire which connects to the coil + red/green stripe wire at yet another plug.
Think about it. We will always have 12v at the coil + because of this pink/brown connection.
Please do the following :
Run wire
Using the picture in the previous post, please turn the ignition to run, and measure the voltage at the exposed pin (male side) in the 4 pin flat connector, where the brown wire connects to the coil + wire. Does it read 12v ? (It should.)
If that was a yes, can you disconnect the plug where the brown meets the pink ? If yes, disconnect it and measure the voltage again. What is the voltage ?
Start wire
With the ignition in run, measure the voltage at the female side of the 4 pin flat terminal, where the red/brown wires enter. This is the spliced wire which connects to the male brown and red/green wires.
If it reads 12v, f$$k, stop.
If it reads 0v, turn the key to start. What's the voltage ? (This test is why the coil HT lead isn't yet connected. )
Resistor wire
If the above tests are successful, we have our answer, and don't need to delve into the wiring behind the firewall.
Before I forget, the brake booster is connected to the back of the carb, and the vacuum line to the tranny tee’s off it between the carb and booster.
I read and re-read your last post. Then I printed the 1975 wiring diagram and see what you’re looking at. I’ve traced the circuits on the diagram and sort-of see what you see. I’m not certain how to read the ignition switch but it seems the top section is the Run circuit and the bottom is Start. Correct? That would make sense since the resistor is in that circuit. If that’s right I don’t understand how there is 12v on the coil+ in Run.
Maybe it will make sense after I conduct the voltage tests. One thing’s for sure and that is I’m learning as we go along.
Before I forget, the brake booster is connected to the back of the carb, and the vacuum line to the tranny tee’s off it between the carb and booster. Perfect.
Then I printed the 1975 wiring diagram and see what you’re looking at. I haven't had a printer for years, but boy did I miss having one during this thread.
I’m not certain how to read the ignition switch but it seems the top section is the Run circuit and the bottom is Start. Correct? I have no idea. LOL I was purely checking for OE splices and if the colors corresponded.
If that’s right I don’t understand how there is 12v on the coil+ in Run. Maybe it will make sense after I conduct the voltage tests. Yes, maybe.
One thing’s for sure and that is I’m learning as we go along. I'm pleased to hear that.
I suspect the 'unused' ICM pink wire is feeding a constant 12v to the J circuit via the solid brown wire, and both are not shown in the wiring diagram.
Your test results will confirm if that is correct or not, and the suspense is killing me.
The brown wire that connects to the coil + wire should get power at run, but only 6v, not 12v.
It will get nothing if it's only the pink wire feeding it. Duh !
If you are able to take away the 12v pink wire from the brown wire, is there another wire connected at that point (Red with thin green stripe ?)
It really is annoying that the pink/brown wires aren't in the diagram, and this sort of crap is why I keep saying we have to delve in behind the firewall. Let's see if we get lucky first.
I suspect the 'unused' ICM pink wire is feeding a constant 12v to the J circuit via the solid brown wire, and both are not shown in the wiring diagram. This is where the ignition switch comes into play. It ‘should’ switch 12v power from the Start circuit to the resisted 6v circuit in Run, correct? If correct that is why I think there should be 6v at the coil on Run. What am I missing?
Your test results will confirm if that is correct or not, and the suspense is killing me.
See my question above. I need to know and understand as much as I can when I’m back under the hood. I’m trying my best for today.
The brown wire that connects to the coil + wire should get power at run, but only 6v, not 12v.
It will get nothing if it's only the pink wire feeding it. Duh !
If you are able to take away the 12v pink wire from the brown wire, is there another wire connected at that point (Red with thin green stripe ?)
It really is annoying that the pink/brown wires aren't in the diagram, and this sort of crap is why I keep saying we have to delve in behind the firewall. Let's see if we get lucky first. They ARE in the diagram. The jumper is brown and it turns to pink. Look at your circles area and follow it to the switch. That’s the start circuit. Anything in the Run circuit goes thru the resistor and should 6v. Right?
When you see ''brown-pink'' in the diagram, do you think that means ''brown leading to pink'' ?
If you do, no, it means the wire is ''brown with a pink stripe''. (The actual color looks like brown with a red stripe in the photos.)
Does that make sense ?
it probably will when I get home and can look at both the diagram and the wiring under the hood at the same time. I will get back as soon as I can but it I’ll be a few hours at least.
Follow the red/green stripe wire from the coil +, to the brown at the connector, all the way to where the red/green stripe enters the firewall.
Follow the pink ICM wire to wherever it goes.
Post up EXACTLY what you find.
I'm stopping at the firewall because in theory, the other side of the firewall is 6v. (I'm leaving the inner side of the firewall wiring to last, if required.)
While I do that, can you see the brown/red (brown/pink) wires are the 12v start circuit ? First, after closer examination, I can make out a stripe on the brown wire that is tied into the red/green wire at the flat connector. It must be pink. And these wires should be 12v at Start and 6v at Run according to how I read the wiring diagram. I’m getting 12v at Run.
If the pink (ICM) wire and thick brown wire are in the start circuit, then we are missing something.
Please go and take a quick look. Follow the coil + red/thin green wire to the flat connector, then follow that thicker brown wire it connects to.
Where does it go to ? (I.E. what does it connect to ?) It connects to the ICM pink wire.
That circuit should take us to where the 6v wire meets the 12v wire. It should all be 6v in Run, right? Everything downstream of the resistor, correct? But all I have is 12v everywhere I check. Hmm… I think I sense a pattern…
Originally Posted by 6 by 8
To summarize, when you get home later :
Follow the red/green stripe wire from the coil +, to the brown at the connector, all the way to where the red/green stripe enters the firewall.
Follow the pink ICM wire to wherever it goes.
Post up EXACTLY what you find.
I'm stopping at the firewall because in theory, the other side of the firewall is 6v. (I'm leaving the inner side of the firewall wiring to last, if required.)
I included the first quote to respond to some questions and provide additional info and thought.
I finally see what you mean by missing brown-pink wire that is shown on the wiring diagram. The diagram shows a brown/pink wire running to the ignition switch, coming from the connection with the pink from the ICM. That wire isn’t there in my harness. The brown plug in the center of this photo is that connection. The diagram shows another brown wire going to the switch from this point.
This picture also shows the 4-pin flat plug you asked voltages for in post 142. In Run there is no power at any of the exposed pins (logically since they are getting power from the female side of the plug). In Run there is 12v at the far left two female sockets. There should be 6v, at least on the red/green coil wire.
It looks to me like except in Start all ignition power under the hood should be resisted, 6v. All I have is 12v. The common element after checking all the wires, is a bad ballast resistor. It looks like time to go behind the instrument cluster to get to the ignition switch to test it.
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