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Got the ELM adapter working, it helps if you slow down and connect it to the phone first and then connect to the forscan or Torquepro now just need to get the trans temp gauge and few more on the app loaded.
Coolant temp was showing -40 and the gauge on the dash does go up to halfway even after and hour of driving at 70mph on the highway.
I decoded the vin but it does not say if I have the dana 60 or 70 and I really want to change the rear diff fluid before driving it all week again.
Got the o ring to reseal the pedestal and turbo to the block, just waiting on up pipes, turbo back, and delete to the show up
I second what Jason says. The bellowed upipes are a must and the only easy thing to do on the vans. The vans make less hp from the factory. You will want to mod it to get it to perform more like the trucks. Make sure everything is healthy first. Fix leaks, oil, diesel and boost. Might be a roof leak or 3rd breaklight leak that probably contributed to the rear quarter rust.
Every econoline van ive had leaked. Some in multiple spots. Back windows, side glass, at the drip edge and all of them at the 3rd break light.
I checked this out today and both bulbs were blown out and light not working, water was in the housing but no sign of real water leaking in it. I used some clear outdoor metal to plastic silicone on the backside of the light and then when installed around the outside of the light to seal it the o the body an seal up any gaps between roof and body.
The 3rd light on this is so high up on the roof its almost impossible to see it standing on the ground.
Got the ELM adapter working, it helps if you slow down and connect it to the phone first and then connect to the forscan or Torquepro now just need to get the trans temp gauge and few more on the app loaded.
Coolant temp was showing -40 and the gauge on the dash does go up to halfway even after and hour of driving at 70mph on the highway.
I decoded the vin but it does not say if I have the dana 60 or 70 and I really want to change the rear diff fluid before driving it all week again.
Got the o ring to reseal the pedestal and turbo to the block, just waiting on up pipes, turbo back, and delete to the show up
I had the same problem with a similar ELM. Silly thing kept connecting to my phone first, not my laptop with Forscan. Took a while to figure why Forscan would not connect. I then slowly, with anguish and doubt, turned off my phone. Problem solved.
The rear axle will be a Sterling 10.5, if it was a 4X4 the front would be a D60. Here's a good writeup on the fluid change.
When the up pipes arrive dry fit the collector to the turbo on the bench before install. I got cheap chinesum pipes and had to do significant grinding on the collector before it fit properly to the baby's butt.
When the up pipes arrive dry fit the collector to the turbo on the bench before install. I got cheap chinesum pipes and had to do significant grinding on the collector before it fit properly to the baby's butt.
Agree that the aluminum diff cover is a good “cheap” upgrade. The steel covers tend to rust. My previous 96 actually rusted a pin hole through it.
I used a cheaper Dorman cover (part # 697-725) with good results. At least it was cheaper through my local store. Just looked, it’s $62 at Advance Auto and don’t forget you can add an easy 15-20% discount online. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...chTerm=697-725
Heads up, you also have to purchase longer bolts.
I had the same problem with a similar ELM. Silly thing kept connecting to my phone first, not my laptop with Forscan. Took a while to figure why Forscan would not connect. I then slowly, with anguish and doubt, turned off my phone. Problem solved.
The rear axle will be a Sterling 10.5, if it was a 4X4 the front would be a D60. Here's a good writeup on the fluid change.
When the up pipes arrive dry fit the collector to the turbo on the bench before install. I got cheap chinesum pipes and had to do significant grinding on the collector before it fit properly to the baby's butt.
I turn bluetooth or wifi off in settings on my iPhone when I have such problems. It is aggravating when I fire up my Bose bluetooth mini to listen to my iPad and it connects to my phone instead.
Agree that the aluminum diff cover is a good “cheap” upgrade. The steel covers tend to rust. My previous 96 actually rusted a pin hole through it.
I used a cheaper Dorman cover (part # 697-725) with good results. At least it was cheaper through my local store. Just looked, it’s $62 at Advance Auto and don’t forget you can add an easy 15-20% discount online. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...chTerm=697-725
Heads up, you also have to purchase longer bolts.
I agree it’s a good idea to dry fit the uppipe collector on the bench. FWIW the 2 cheapo sets I’ve installed went on with no issues though.
Thanks for the links, I just ordered the same one from amazon even thought it said it didnt fit.. I see mentioned longer bolts but thats not in your write up.
On another note, I also ordered this, and a double din kit from crutchfield along with a single single jl12 an amp.
I had the same problem with a similar ELM. Silly thing kept connecting to my phone first, not my laptop with Forscan. Took a while to figure why Forscan would not connect. I then slowly, with anguish and doubt, turned off my phone. Problem solved.
The rear axle will be a Sterling 10.5, if it was a 4X4 the front would be a D60. Here's a good writeup on the fluid change.
When the up pipes arrive dry fit the collector to the turbo on the bench before install. I got cheap chinesum pipes and had to do significant grinding on the collector before it fit properly to the baby's butt.
Thanks for the tip on the dry fitting, did you need to sand down the v band to make it sit flush or the other two flat surfaces ?
Thanks for the links, I just ordered the same one from amazon even thought it said it didnt fit.. I see mentioned longer bolts but thats not in your write up.
On another note, I also ordered this, and a double din kit from crutchfield along with a single single jl12 an amp.
Any need to upgrade the alternator ?
I do not recommend using the double din kit. See @Sous ’s thread for a better way to mount this radio.
Originally Posted by 97audia4
Thanks for the tip on the dry fitting, did you need to sand down the v band to make it sit flush or the other two flat surfaces ?
Some of the off-brand up-pipe collectors don’t fit well to the turbo.
In that link, I and several other FTE'rs provided our input and details about installing and configuring the ATOTO A6 and S8. I hope you find some of it useful.
One more thing, please make sure your PM's are turned on. I am still unable to send you the instructions to download the FSM as of this post. If you have turned PM's off on purpose, get your email address to me and I will send the instructions that way.
EDIT: I see SSJ was typing at the same time as I was and provided some of the same information.
In that link, I and several other FTE'rs provided our input and details about installing and configuring the ATOTO A6 and S8. I hope you find some of it useful.
One more thing, please make sure your PM's are turned on. I am still unable to send you the instructions to download the FSM as of this post. If you have turned PM's off on purpose, get your email address to me and I will send the instructions that way.
EDIT: I see SSJ was typing at the same time as I was and provided some of the same information.
Only on day 9 of 10 until Pm's become active.
I am reading through that now, I am adding a 12 inch sub an 1000 watt RMS amp to the system.
I am reading through that now, I am adding a 12 inch sub an 1000 watt RMS amp to the system.
Sounds good, I'll keep checking your PM status!
If you still have the OEM 110A alternator, then you could probably benefit from an bigger alternator. The 140A (not sure on that) 6.0L alternator is a popular upgrade, but the big dog, A+, grade A alternator right now is the Leece Neville made famous by Y2KW57 and made public by @F0rdc0wb0y at the link below.
You may not need the 230A it offers though, so up to you and you should do what is right for your project. Whatever you do, don't buy a QuickStart alternator.
Thanks for the links, I just ordered the same one from amazon even thought it said it didnt fit.. I see mentioned longer bolts but thats not in your write up
Hey, sorry about that. My post in that other thread was just basically sharing the Dorman cover install since no one I knew had tried it. I got the bolt size from the Amazon reviews I believe. Just searched my history to find the size.
So the bolts are “grade 8 coarse hex cap screws, 5/16-18 x 1-1/4-inch” along with 5/16 washers. I didn’t want to use the easier to find Allen head screws.
Here’s a link. Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973251550 Grade 8 Coarse Hex Cap Screws, 5/16-18 x 1-1/4-Inch, 50-Piece
Hey, sorry about that. My post in that other thread was just basically sharing the Dorman cover install since no one I knew had tried it. I got the bolt size from the Amazon reviews I believe. Just searched my history to find the size.
So the bolts are “grade 8 coarse hex cap screws, 5/16-18 x 1-1/4-inch” along with 5/16 washers. I didn’t want to use the easier to find Allen head screws.
Here’s a link. Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973251550 Grade 8 Coarse Hex Cap Screws, 5/16-18 x 1-1/4-Inch, 50-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OHUCXF4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I will go back to my post in the other thread and add the info for future readers.
I just checked out lowes nearby and they have these in allen head and stainless so ill pick some up, the cover just arrived today but thanks to covid I work all weekend.
Exactly 4 weeks from today Ill be headed down to WV from Pa for the first race weekend. I decided to order the Mishimoto trans cooler and not a deeper pan. The cooler will increase capacity and surface area for cooling. If my Denali was able to stay under 190 with just a cooler at 3600 rpm up long hills this should be no issue for this.
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