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Like stated above, engine will not run if there was no oil pressure. The gauge IS malfunctioning.
Me know that about no oil pressure, no truck run , bad HPOP hose... out goes the oil and truck coasts to a stop.
I am reading off of a Ford Tech break down that is looking into why the oil light comes on and why the needle drops. The questioners truck to the Ford Tech, also ran seemly fine. The Tech was looking first into if there was a fluctuation of oil pressure and why.
I will go with SkySkiJason and say your gauge is malfunctioning..... (which may be due to low oil pressure , or not)
I have seen that gauge or sensor malfunction plenty of times. Including currently on my own junk. It’s not a reliable diagnostic tool.
On trucks, the wire or sensor often get damaged by people laying on it to access engine. I’ve tried to forget what is happening in that area on a van, but I suspect it’s vulnerable because of tight quarters.
I would definitely visually check wires and sensor before hooking up a mechanical gauge.
Gauge is pretty easy though. The plug on top of HPO reservoir is a #4 ORB just like the fuel bowl plug we pull for fuel pressure sending unit. I keep a gauge/hose on the ORB to NPT adapter for checking fuel pressure or oil pressure (on a no-start truck).
Pretty sure the same sensor drives both the light and the gauge. When i got my truck light stayed on and gauge was bottomed out. Changed one sender and both came back. Dumb system
Pretty sure the same sensor drives both the light and the gauge. When i got my truck light stayed on and gauge was bottomed out. Changed one sender and both came back. Dumb system
Got the windshield replaced today at work and drive it 45 miles home. Van started no issue at all but the pressure gauge showed 0, about halfway home it climbed up and then the light went out. I paid for the mobile app of forscan and have the elm adapter I will check it out tomorrow on the data it shows, didnt get to hook to solus up I wanted to leave after a 13 hour day. Air bag light is possible seat belt so Ill order that.
Since it looks with very good certainty that there is good oil pressure.
The Ford Tech sheet that I looked at yesterday said that if there is a short in a wire and was touching all the time the light would ground and stay on all of the time. The light goes out as the gauge line goes up. The tech also said that the next thing to change out and look to would be a sensor that has failed/failing.
(I know that I am repeating what has already been said)
Since it looks with very good certainty that there is good oil pressure.
The Ford Tech sheet that I looked at yesterday said that if there is a short in a wire and was touching all the time the light would ground and stay on all of the time. The light goes out as the gauge line goes up. The tech also said that the next thing to change out and look to would be a sensor that has failed/failing.
(I know that I am repeating what has already been said)
I am going to order a new sensor today and wait for riff raff delete plug to come back in stock and open it all up .
I am going to order a new sensor today and wait for riff raff delete plug to come back in stock and open it all up .
You can make a AIH delete plug out of a Cummins oil drain plug if you don’t want to wait. I don’t remember the details but I did that on my previous OBS.
You can make a AIH delete plug out of a Cummins oil drain plug if you don’t want to wait. I don’t remember the details but I did that on my previous OBS.
M22-1.5 - it’s on the shelf at the local autoparts. Should be able to get them down to about $5 for it.
M22-1.5 - it’s on the shelf at the local autoparts. Should be able to get them down to about $5 for it.
I meant the plug for the EPV delete, to not throw a code, riff raff is out of stock.
So far 200 miles and I have checked under the hood and van everytime I have gotten out to make sure everything is working as it should. Tonight I got back from work and there was a massive spray of oil under the hood. The oil pressure sensor has blown and is coming out through the plug so I ran to Advanced and changed the sensor in the parking lot. Drove 40 miles to my hockey game and back and all was good no more leaking.
I have bellows pipes, EPV delete, OEM o rings for pedestal, air intake heater delete on order, and 4 inch down pipe on coming my way.
Now I am looking for a complete kit to reseal the entire fuel filter housing, and change out any high pressure fuel and oil lines that are in the valley with upgraded lines as I only want to do this once and be done.
Is there a door sticker to find out and decode what rear differential I have? I want to pick up all the fluids I need this weekend.
Any sensors I should replace while I have the whole area open? Ill be towing sometimes 5 to 12 hours away and a breakdown could cost me a ton of time and money put out on racing so I am willing to spend it now to prevent any in route delays.
Tonight I got back from work and there was a massive spray of oil under the hood. The oil pressure sensor has blown and is coming out through the plug so I ran to Advanced and changed the sensor in the parking lot.
Exactly what sensor? Got a part number?
Originally Posted by 97audia4
Now I am looking for a complete kit to reseal the entire fuel filter housing.
Any sensors I should replace while I have the whole area open? Ill be towing sometimes 5 to 12 hours away and a breakdown could cost me a ton of time and money put out on racing so I am willing to spend it now to prevent any in route delays.
For sensors OE Ford or IH is strongly recommended. ICP if not already replaced. Inspect the exhaust back pressure sensor, they can get clogged with soot and give false readings. Mostly just fix what's broke.
For sensors OE Ford or IH is strongly recommended. ICP if not already replaced. Inspect the exhaust back pressure sensor, they can get clogged with soot and give false readings. Mostly just fix what's broke.
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