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Thats good to know SSJ....thanks. A factory tach would be nice.
Audi, you can use a 2" pvc cap to fill that hole after you remove the resonator box. That or a spray can cap fits too. Great progress man! What i am waiting for is your version of the diy cold air intake. The Finlander was able to get a 6637 filter under hood where the battery is. I did not want to remove my ac compressor so ive been looking for a filter that will fit in that spot. He relocated his batteries to the rear cargo area. I remounted my battery to the frame rail next to the factory mounted one. Heads up on this if you have a slider door you will have to move the factory mounted one 6or 8" in order to fit the extra battery box. Those factory battery boxes are available on ebay.
The intake is one thing that really bothers me and I wish I had looked into it before I purchased the van never looked into it in the 2 years I had been searching for one of these.
Looks like no downpipe is coming as the seller cancelled the sale so the hunt is back on for one of those.
First set back that took a ton of time was tearing the front end off and and trying to make the 6.0 cooler work one way or another. Even after drilling out the rivets to all the brackets it still will not fit or sit anywhere near with enough room. So I am going to go with a trucool 40k and make brackets for it to sit on the lower cross member.
There are instruction sheets and vidios on how to install a 6.0 trans cooler in a 7.3
I wish it was that easy, there just isnt the room on the van to mount i, short nose that slopes down limits the way you can mount it.
Ordered a 40k Trucool cooler that will be here Thursday, I run one on my yukon and its lowered temps over 60 degrees. This is mine with the factory bracket flipped and top bracket fabricated out of aluminum bar, and stock lines with fitting made to work so its sits like OEM.
My mind wanders..... Squirrels everywhere...
You have a van and we are very much interested in your progress and I do not drink enough coffee.
Thank-you for being here.
Go the adapter welded up at work today, saw that the turbo rebuild kit and the new billet wheel from Riff Raff showed up from the tracking. Got home late from work and decided that I should start the rebuild at least and prepared for the weekend to get everything back together.
Got home, realized my wallet and my keys were still at work cant get into my garage so it looks like tomorrow is the day now.
I use a quality 8mm box end wrench and a hammer to break almost all of the turbo bolts loose. Then, spin them out with 12pt 8mm socket and my baby right angle impact.
Anyone know off hand which is a 12v constant fuse and 12v with key only ? I am going to be installing my glowshift guage today and running all the wires for the sensors and installing the turbo after rebuilding it with the new riff raff wheel.
Took all the turbo parts to work today and used our parts washer to clean them out .
Sort of disappointed as I installed the 360 bearing rebuild kit and the new billit wheel and now there is more play than ever before not sure where to go from here but I may just source a local turbo for now .
Sort of disappointed as I installed the 360 bearing rebuild kit and the new billit wheel and now there is more play than ever before not sure where to go from here but I may just source a local turbo for now .
I am not questioning your methods, but are you sure you put everything back together the way it was designed to be? I don't recall why you were rebuilding the turbo anyway, was it due to "play" in the shaft?
Also, I embedded your video into my post to make it easier for readers to see.
I am not questioning your methods, but are you sure you put everything back together the way it was designed to be? I don't recall why you were rebuilding the turbo anyway, was it due to "play" in the shaft?
Also, I embedded your video into my post to make it easier for readers to see.
Since I was removing the turbo to replace to complete the ped delete and new o rings . I decide to rebuild it while it was out . It really had no play at all.
It's almost a fool proof rebuild , I'm use to rebuilding cummins and cat vvt turbos .
Since I was removing the turbo to replace to complete the ped delete and new o rings . I decide to rebuild it while it was out . It really had no play at all.
It's almost a fool proof rebuild , I'm use to rebuilding cummins and cat vvt turbos .
I agree it is almost fool proof, but we as humans make mistakes at times.
Does the wheel contact the housing? Does it make noise when you turn the wheel? Do you replace anything else besides the compressor wheel and the parts in the 360 bearing kit?
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