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Picking up a 2003 E350 with the 7.3 Monday to tow my enclosed trailer and two race bikes during the summer and dirt bike in the bike for single track riding..
It has some rust on the rear quarters I plan to address but frame is solid and the engine is completely stock, no tune or any mods.
Trailer is a 7x16 extra high v nose and is about 6500 lbs. loaded. I tow from Pa up to NY almost every other weekend and it is mostly hills so I am looking on recommended mods or a trans tune only to firm up the shifts and keep the fluid cool during long inclines.
And we're really good at helping people out with spending their money, welcome to FTE, let PMS begin!
Ill be doing plenty of that, just really want this to be reliable.
Looks like the valve body upgrade is a must for line pressure increase.
Here is what I used to tow the trailer the last two years but now its getting heads, cam and blower so really not interested in towing with it anymore.
I second what Jason says. The bellowed upipes are a must and the only easy thing to do on the vans. The vans make less hp from the factory. You will want to mod it to get it to perform more like the trucks. Make sure everything is healthy first. Fix leaks, oil, diesel and boost. Might be a roof leak or 3rd breaklight leak that probably contributed to the rear quarter rust.
Every econoline van ive had leaked. Some in multiple spots. Back windows, side glass, at the drip edge and all of them at the 3rd break light.
I second what Jason says. The bellowed upipes are a must and the only easy thing to do on the vans. The vans make less hp from the factory. You will want to mod it to get it to perform more like the trucks. Make sure everything is healthy first. Fix leaks, oil, diesel and boost. Might be a roof leak or 3rd breaklight leak that probably contributed to the rear quarter rust.
Every econoline van ive had leaked. Some in multiple spots. Back windows, side glass, at the drip edge and all of them at the 3rd break light.
Thanks for the heads up ill check that out when I do a complete service.
I plan to do the ebv delete and at the same time reseal the pedestal and do the up pipes, down pipe and intake. Also ordering the valve body for the trans to firm the shifts. Id like to stay away from tunes if possible with those mods or just a mild tune.
Thanks for the heads up ill check that out when I do a complete service.
I plan to do the ebv delete and at the same time reseal the pedestal and do the up pipes, down pipe and intake. Also ordering the valve body for the trans to firm the shifts. Id like to stay away from tunes if possible with those mods or just a mild tune.
Personally I would do tunes before the VB. Tunes modify the shifting and pressures. You might be happy with it with just the tuning adjustment. The Hydra comes with free access to their standard tune library. You could just throw a 25hp tow and 40 daily tune on it if you wanted. The Hydra can hold 15 tunes that you load yourself. Just my opinion but I’d check it out before dropping the money on a VB.
T-wood is correct about checking and sealing up any boost leaks as well.
Personally I would do tunes before the VB. Tunes modify the shifting and pressures. You might be happy with it with just the tuning adjustment. The Hydra comes with free access to their standard tune library. You could just throw a 25hp tow and 40 daily tune on it if you wanted. The Hydra can hold 15 tunes that you load yourself. Just my opinion but I’d check it out before dropping the money on a VB.
T-wood is correct about checking and sealing up any boost leaks as well.
First time ill really tow with it is when race season starts is the end of next month, so I will take my time and change all fluids and open the dog house in the cab and inspect all the the lines.
I bit the bullet and pulled a carfax on it and shows it was serviced at the dealer for over 200k and has 220 on now so its been maintained somewhat.
I did the ssj ebpv delete. Its easy, cheap and a link to it is in the tech folder above. At the same time i deleted the aih and solenoid. And i cut the bracket where the aih solenoid was. This gives a tad more space for accessing the fuel bowl. If the resonator (van specific) is still mounted in there get rid of it. You can use a spray can cap or pvc cap to plug the hole in the intake. Its only function is being in the way of working on anything in there. It wont come out in one piece unless you remove the turbo. So i suggest this during the ebpv delete. Make sure to post how you approach the intake. Its a diy project as nothing fits under the hood.
Another vote for tunes. Ford left a lot on the table performance wise in pursuit of idiot proofing. Need a few gauges to keep on top of the extra ponies.
Definitely uppies, OEM is done by now. Research and ask here before you buy.
Set up right that rig will tow that trailer great for a looong time.
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