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I fubared my order at Riff Riff and have to redo it, at this point ill need to next day air everything to get it here Monday or Tuesday and finish this up in time.
There are no fuel leaks in the Valley and all of it looks like old oil leaks from the turbo pedestal. I will have to reseal the fuel bowl another time when I dont work 18 of the next 20 days that I also need to fit in rebuilding front forks, rear shock and rear linkage on my bike.
No worries we will be here when you have more time.
I helped a friend rebuild the forks on his 2003 SV1000 and do a conversion to the rear shock. I forget the details on the rear shock though... I still have my chain breaker and axle removal tool even though I haven't owned a motorcycle in about 8 years now.
Got some items started today with minimal time. Riff raff AIH delete plug with Glowshift boost pressure sensor installed, along with Atoto head unit wired and all brackets fabricated , and opening trimmed to fit. Removed both batteries and serviced the terminals and cables, change the rear diff fluid and gasket. No fancy cover though, I pulled the stock one off and cleaned the diff housing up only to discover there is no fill hole on the rear of the diff, and amazon sent me a gasket I ordered all folded up so that was a waste as well.
Tomorrows plans are to install the trans temp sensor, egt sensor, and run all the wires and install the gauge. I have about 3 hours before I have to go to work so I'm going to make the most of it.
Bike was getting jealous of all the van parts so I had to pick up a billet gas gap and billet folding levers but ran out of time for those.
I will be deleting the the intake resonator if I can find something at lowes to make work.
This oil in the valley has not changed at all or very little since I have put over 1000 miles on the van back and forth to work and all over, but I did notice some oil pooled on top of the fuel filter today that I dont remember seeing before but it it could have been when the oil pressure sensor failed and shot oil all over the place.
Any common areas on the passenger side that would be prone to leaking oil?
You don't really need a trans temp sensor, just the gauge. The OEM temp sensor in the trans is great, it's just the dash gauge that sucks. TFT can be read from the OBD port too, with Forscan on your Atopo and a bluetooth OBDII adapter.
Common passenger side leak is the fuel line rubbed thru by the clamp in your pic. Clean it up and have a look.
Watching and reading about you doing all this work brings back memories of accomplishing very similar tasks on my truck.
David has some good advice for you on the leak.
Having a dedicated analog gauge is sometimes preferable to the onscreen gauge, but that is up to you.
I hope you enjoy the ATOTO! I had a great 5 hour towing shakedown trip with it yesterday using FSL and Google Maps the entire way. So much easier and more comfortable than wires and devices all over the place.
Remove that clamp from the fuel line or put some rubber in it for protection.
I'm thinking that that's a pretty long run on that fuel line and the engine vibrates a lot so I went for electrical tape around the line. I was worried that in time the metal line would fatigue from all the vibrations.
Remove that clamp from the fuel line or put some rubber in it for protection.
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I'm thinking that that's a pretty long run on that fuel line and the engine vibrates a lot so I went for electrical tape around the line. I was worried that in time the metal line would fatigue from all the vibrations.
The 99-01’s don’t have transmission temp gauge in cluster, but it can be pulled from stock sensor on wiring harness. I’ve seen a few aftermarket gauges hooked up this way.
Electrical tape has a short lifespan in this application and you’ll end up metal to metal anyway. I’ve been removing these clamps for years and seen no change in service life from vibraloc sleeves, etc.
I recommend deleting the clamps, but do what you’re comfortable with. It won’t hurt my feelings! Lol.
The 99-01’s don’t have transmission temp gauge in cluster, but it can be pulled from stock sensor on wiring harness. I’ve seen a few aftermarket gauges hooked up this way.
Electrical tape has a short lifespan in this application and you’ll end up metal to metal anyway. I’ve been removing these clamps for years and seen no change in service life from vibraloc sleeves, etc.
I recommend deleting the clamps, but do what you’re comfortable with. It won’t hurt my feelings! Lol.
I have some self sealing silicone tape that ill use for that its held up grade to 4 years in my race bike harness that sees 15k RPM basically all the time.
First set back that took a ton of time was tearing the front end off and and trying to make the 6.0 cooler work one way or another. Even after drilling out the rivets to all the brackets it still will not fit or sit anywhere near with enough room. So I am going to go with a trucool 40k and make brackets for it to sit on the lower cross member.
I filled the diff with fluid today after 24 hours of the gasket material sitting and curing, EGT sensor installed, trans temp installed, AIHD ground wire installed, and the valley was scrubbed and brushed and vacuumed out.
Waiting on 360 turbo rebuild kit, riff raff intake wheel and now a 40k cooler and then things can start to go back together finally.
Before I forget again, you know you can use a 99-01 SuperDuty cluster in your van to get tach, etc don’t you???
Plug and play.
Thats good to know SSJ....thanks. A factory tach would be nice.
Audi, you can use a 2" pvc cap to fill that hole after you remove the resonator box. That or a spray can cap fits too. Great progress man! What i am waiting for is your version of the diy cold air intake. The Finlander was able to get a 6637 filter under hood where the battery is. I did not want to remove my ac compressor so ive been looking for a filter that will fit in that spot. He relocated his batteries to the rear cargo area. I remounted my battery to the frame rail next to the factory mounted one. Heads up on this if you have a slider door you will have to move the factory mounted one 6or 8" in order to fit the extra battery box. Those factory battery boxes are available on ebay.
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