update, drove about 40 miles down to by friends house to install the amp and sub service engine light soon and all the codes were the same. Bought 1/0 wire for ground and power wire for the amp and hooked up to the battery below the sliding door. I ended up torching off both ends and going with ring terminals and grounding the amp direct to battery and adding a 200 amp fuse in line with power wire. Routed everything up and over the heat shields and hole sawed two holes in the drivers side and fed the wire up and through to the left of the driver seat.

started it up and now there are no codes and no service engine soon light and another 40 mile drive home was no issue.

 

Pretty soon you will run out of the "need" to do tasks and get to the "want" to do tasks.

Your accomplishing a lot and doing it right, we commend you for your efforts.

 

I wan to build out the back eventually, I found out the rear seat has quick locks so that is helpful.

Got the gauge mounted and all the wires run, even though I dont believe the boot gauge is working properly, only showing about 13 psi.

All the codes have gone away now after a quick disconnect of the batteries to install the amp wiring, I used 1/0 wire so there is no voltage drop and its quality all copper wire not coated bs.

 

The ATOTO head unit looks sharp in there, well done. Just to be sure you are aware, the gauges can be enlarged by using two fingers and spreading them apart on the screen, just like on a tablet or smart phone. FSL will rearrange the display to make the gauges fit if you feel you want to do this. BWST tends to like to use the "table" view and I found it quite visually pleasing while messing around with FSL during a recent 10 hour heavy towing trip.

We are looking forward to the next updates sir!

 

So far I ordered a roll of outdoor gray carpet and high temp spray 3m adhesive for the walls and doors to remove all the broken plastic but will spray some sound deadening spray before hand.

Going to also be checking for boost leaks, Boost pressure showing 12 psi but I also never really stood on it WOT. All the boots were clea ned and had grip to them when I installed the spider. New air filters are also on order the current ones have a ton of blockage.

 

Well I took the first step today at took a look at this as I have started now to take on Enduro racing in addition to road racing. If ATC can track me down on with a dovetail version I am In and will take it home.

28 foot with a bathroom and front bedroom, all aluminum meaning I could wash the bikes in the back and not worry about rotting out the frame.

 

So it's time for a hydra and a kx300 turbo upgrade. Riffraff advised I will need to welt a truck flange to the downpipe for it to work, no issue there tons of exhaust shoots near me to make that happen .

Also can't seem to find any info on the van installs for the hydra

My issue is I really don't want to worry about having issues with the hydra on the road . I plan of multiple 1000 mile trips this coming year . The van did great all race season this year and I put on 12k in a span of 6 months between road racing and hauling the dirt bike to single track area .

 

Paging @FinnishStroker and @T-wood to the stage in order to provide some sage advice to 97audia4.

 

Hey welcome back!

Glad it’s been working out well for you. If I remember this thread correctly you had some extra pains while getting this thing up to speed.

Being too lazy to read back through the thread… didn’t you install a billet wheel or KC balanced assembly?

If that’s the case, I wonder if you should just try the Hydra first? You may be surprised with the results.

Hydra should cause you no issues as long as the PCM is properly cleaned and the chip is securely fastened. I have no experience with it on a van but the process should be the same.

If you still plan on a KC turbo upgrade then maybe consider talking to KC direct. Riffraff is an excellent resource for us and well trusted. The reason I suggest this is KC may have a workaround for a van that Clay isn’t aware of.

 

I recommend to just put Hydra on first.

Vans have 1.15 exhaust housing and 70mm exducer turbine(68 in trucks)
It will pull hard when fueling is taken care with Hydra.

KC turbos has s300 style upgrade turbine also.

PCM connector unbolts from under the hood.
PCM is located behind/above the accelerator pedal and pulls out from there,after the connector is removed.

PCM has plastic casing in it and i broke mine while pulling it.
(didn't really had any affect in holding in place,when put PCM back)

Major PITA to pull the PCM behind the pedal.
What comes to PCM,chip installation doesn't differ from trucks.

 

I was at first seeing 13 psi high egt and lack of torque . Cut the cat off and realized it was clogged ever since then 21 psi and it's been fine . Currently I have riff raff billit wheel and rebuild kit that's it all stock other wise .

I will try the hydra and go from there .I just figured since it's kc300 is 1200 it's worth it to keep egts even lower while making towing easier .

My racing commitments arent cheap and none of it is refundable even worse is I travel with my friends most of the time so it would suck for them to lose out thier investment if I had a breakdown . I have a spare ipr spare cps and spare ips if I need to install on the road . Shouldn't need a radiator for a while since last April I did that on the road .
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@97audia4 Your handle looks awfully familiar. Are you on MNAudi?

 

You can drop the KC S300 turbine wheel (for van turbo) right into your turbo and continue using the Riffraff 4+4 compressor wheel or upgrade to the KC 6/6 wheel with extended tips that comes with the S300 Balanced Assembly ($450). No downpipe mods needed.

If you opt to replace the whole turbo, you’ll need a different downpipe.

The vans (and OBS trucks) are definitely more of a challenge to control EGT when adding more power because of no CAC (‘intercooler’). I would consider adding the Hydra with custom tuning (Andrew Arthur!) and see where you are with that. Then change turbo up if you need to.

The 1.15 exhaust housing was in part to compensate for no CAC and helps by reducing back pressure through the turbo. I’ve built a few trucks that are 400-500HP and used the ‘van turbo’ as an inexpensive turbo that can get the job done without the high EBP deltas we’d see with stock SuperDuty .84 exhaust housing. The large deltas (boost to EBP) put excessive lateral loads on the turbo shaft and cause excessive wear and short service life for the journal bearings, etc.

The S300-style turbine wheel is HUGE compared to the stock turbine wheel. This is in effect a bigger sail that makes better use of the air moving out of the combustion chamber. The van turbine wheel is already a little different (bigger) than SD wheel, so I think an S300-style wheel in a van turbo might be even more of an improvement than we see in the trucks with stock turbos.

I’m anxious to see what you decide and what WE learn from it!! Good luck and thanks for sharing your journey!!

Here’s the KC ‘balanced assembly’ next to a stock SD assembly. You can see the ‘extended tips’ on that KC assembly have the ability to move a lot more air. Especially at 50k rpm or whatever these things spin!!

 

Hmmm. Speaking of that. Shameless plug for the OP to add his experiences to the Turbo Matrix once he gets this thing dialed in. We need some van input on the chart!

 

Thanks Sous for sending the link.

Audi i installed the kc drop in wheel and SSJ ebpv delete. I got as far as getting the gauges installed when life and maintenance derailed my project. I have a headunit and hydra ready to install when i get caught up.
I am practicing self control, i need better brakes before i add boost. My van is a work rig and my daily driver.

That toy hauler is awesome! Look over those aluminum frame trailers real well. I had a aluminum cargo trailer that after 18 months would eat tires. It acted like the axles were bent. The problem was the steel brackets that "stand" off of the aluminum frame. This allowed the brackets to roll. Bad design on my trailer so i sold it.
The pcm has 2 , 10mm nuts holding it in on the firewall. I removed my pedal assembly 3..13mm to access it from the inside. To remove it push from inside out. Or the plastic bracket breaks.