X3 on Hydra. This will really wake up the van and make towing less cumbersome. No need for upgraded valve body. I strongly recommend EGT and fuel pressure gauges and transmission temp is a good idea too. Fuel pressure is one parameter the PCM does not monitor and it will be significantly easier to install it with turbo off.

I also recommend rebuilding the filter water drain valve and removing the clamps on fuel lines from filter to heads. Use the upgraded o-rings for drain valve from www.dieselorings.com The ‘mechanics parts cabinet’ is a good investment. It will have all of the o-rings, etc to fix common leaks.

If you have ‘green’ coolant, I would consider a cooling system flush (must remove block drains) and fill with ELC so you don’t have to monitor/add SCA’s and change coolant every 100k miles.

Other stuff to look at would include brakes. Specifically check caliper slide pins to insure they are well lubed with the correct product (not bearing grease or anti seize). I am a big fan of EBC Yellowstuff pads because they have the most stopping power you can get fro stock size brakes.

I would consider investing in a scan tool. Many of us are fond of the FORscan app for Android. I have had good luck with the (inexpensive) BAFX OBD2 dongle. This tool gives you the ability to self diagnose almost anything that can go wrong and almost guarantees you’ll never have to go to the dealership to figure out a problem.

 

Thanks I will be sure to add that stuff to my list to check out.

First minor issue today, van starts no problem cold or warm but the level gauge shows full and then goes to almost red low side when driven and oil temp light comes on.

Motor does not sound any different and the motor is full and no leaks visible from underneath

 

I believe that light there is your seatbelt light or maybe air bag.

 

Yes that is also on but I am more concerned with the oil pressure H-L gauge.

The oil pressure temp light comes on after a short time as well after driven little.

 

I didn't know there was an oil temp light. Do you have a scanner? You can monitor oil temp and pressure. If a sensor is bad tough, you'll get bad readings.

 

Well I'm an idiot it's the oil pressure gauge .

It starts right away and goes to half at idle and then slowly down to almost red and then the oil temp looking light comes on . Drives fine and no noises .

 

I'd like to see a picture of that light to which you are referring.

 

They won’t run without oil pressure. So I would be suspecting a bad sensor or wire. Of course this is worthy of deeper investigation.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I heard that the oil pressure "guage" is simply responding to an oil pressure switch that is binary in signal. If it's slowly dropping, then I believe it would simply be a poor electrical connection somewhere.

 

Guys say it's more of an idiot light, same as the water temp but it's above my pay grade.

 

Here a picture after the truck has sat for 24 hours in below 20 degree temps . I turned the key let the wait to start to go out and cranked it over, it fired up right away no issue and running normal .

 

A ha. Maybe one of the guys will have the skinny on that light(s). So...is it running in that picture? I see nothing on the oil pressure gauge.

 

i think normal for that light to come on and go off when starting (upper left by fuel gauge)

Very good question. Was this after the 'wait to start' light went out and before you 'started' the truck??? or was the truck running??

Are you able to test for any tripped codes?

 

Is it one light or two? Does one light cover both oil pressure and coolant idiot lights at the same time? He reports it coming on whilst driving.

 

Ford Tech says from what I am reading is to find out your true oil pressure at idle (10.5psi) and 3300rpm (40 to 69psi)
to do this is to install a mechanical pressure gauge and check pressure, to get that worry out of the way.