I bought the wife a new to her at one of the biggest dealer chains in the area. I asked about 21 Super Dutys. He said they haven't seen one yet.

 

My dealer had one Tremor that was it. They onely had about 10 F150's and some of those were 19's

 

I now have the one inch hose menders for my Mishimoto oil catch can hoses to extend them so I can mount the S&S DPK filter in it's place. They are made out of stainless steel and are rated for 350 degrees F. They are heavy duty as hell. They should be for the cost of them.

Just have to find a suitable hose to use...

 

I used Parker oil rated hose for my catch can on my 7.3 & never saw any oil seepage. I had tried some hose that NAPA sold me 1st & the oil did start to seep through it so I wished I had just bit the bullit & bought the Parker from the start, it's been on there for 300k miles & still looks new.

 

Hey Dave,
Do the S&S instructions have any detail to them about removing the intake manifold? I can only find directions online for their Gen1 kit, which basically just says "remove intake manifold." I watched an amateur YouTube video on it that made it look like a major hassle. I want to buy the S&S DPK but have been hesitating getting into a project I may regret.

 

Yeah thanks. There used to be a local Parker store where I work but there is a hydraulic shop located not far from me. Appreciate the input.

Yeah. I'll post a pic of it for you when I get a chance.

 

From the instruction booklet:

 

The Airdog I ordered on EBay came in 2 days early. It came in yesterday.

The ad was listed as the older, discontinued 100 GPH at 10 PSI model. The number of that model number is A6SPBF387. it also had the new number that supersedes 387, which is A6SABF488, which is the 165 GPH at 55 PSI.

It was listed as $699.00 so even if I did get the newer model, I saved $65. I received the new one. Once I get the parts I need, I'll post up to show the parts needed to run this pump to feed the factory DFCM. It's meant to replace the DFCM so I do need need more fittings, a fuel pressure gauge and fitting so I can adjust the fuel pressure down to 10 PSI.

I did call Airdog. I told them I figured out what I needed and how to run it like the old 10 PSI models. They told me that these pumps are adjustable and to get a fuel pressure gauge to put in the extra port that the body has.

I'll provide pics of what's included and what's needed. The harness looks well built as the whole unit as well. I'll take pics and post up.

 

Thanks for posting the pictures, Dave, their instructions seem to be pretty good. A couple questions for the group:

1. I watched a video of a guy doing the install who messed up an o-ring and had a leak from the FCA/pump. Wouldn't it seem like a good idea to finish the install and pressurize the system PRIOR to re-installing the intake manifold, so that if you had an issue by the pump it would still be accessible?

2. Instructions say that if the FCA is full of debris, then the pump and fuel system must be replaced. I can see where the pump would need to be replaced, but if it hasn't gotten bad enough to cause any symptoms, is it really necessary to replace your injectors at this point?

What do you guys think?

 

1) That's a great point, to be sure. I agree.

2) I'm not a mechanic here, but if the FCA screen is full of debris like what is shown, more than likely the HPFP took a schitt. And that would mean the injectors are shot. But that would mean the engine would shut down, throw codes and not run...I would assume. I'm curious what I am going to find but we'll see. I MAY buy an Exergy FCA valve with the 25 micron screen since I'm in that deep. Not saying that the OEM one is shot or bad as I'd save it, but I almost look at it like "I'm there, so why not?" Plus the word overkill is in my handle... just saying.

 

Today I edited this post:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19793694

I added some stuff to it.

Anyways, I had been planning to make a video and post on either BitChute or Rumble to post here. I've purchased a tube of water detecting paste so I can prove to the doubters here that K100 works. What I'll do is combine water and K100D in a container. You'll be able see the two combine into one liquid. It's pretty wild to be honest. I'll do the freeze test with it as well. I'll also place a nail or screw in it to test for water. I'll let it sit out in my garage.

So stay tuned. But you guys know me by now, I tend to procrastinate some. You've been warned.

 

I like additive demos

situation A: Pour X amount of water in to the additive....it disappears the water.....water stick can’t detect it.


situation B: add the additive at the recommended rate to fuel.... add some water.....does the water stick sect the water.....oh...I’m sorry....we’re not doing that test.

 

Number one, if it's an emulsion, than the water should separate and then it will become visible on the stick later on. Better yet I leave the stick in there and put it in my freezer for what? A week? A month? You tell me Fritz.

Number two, I have old fuel that I have drained from my past fuel filter changes. I will do a test with fuel, water and K100D. You beat me to the punch.

An emulsion is temporary. K100D puts it in permanent solution. The reason I edited that article I previously put up is because calling K100 an "emulsifier" is not correct. It's not correct because water is soluble in K100D and stays in permanent solution.

I've got no connection to K100 other than I use it in my truck. I'm a police officer in a local municipality. I don't make any endorsements from them. I'm just doing this to show guys like you you're wrong in your assessment of K100. If it was only an emulsifier in nature, it wouldn't pass the tests of what I will do. It would look cloudy when mixed together with water and it would freeze when placed in the freezer.

I don't care what others think as I'm not selling it. I'm just showing what it does, that's all. This is for the guys with an open mind. You can think whatever it is you want to. No problem.

 

I think the key thing to understand is what is the performance spec as claimed by the manufacture and determine how that spec relates to real world use. A good spec would be something like “add X oz of the additive to X gallons of fuel and get water protection of up to X oz’s”.

it really doesn’t matter how much water can be disappeared by the additive only in a container when water is added...

there are additive+water demos all over the internet that claim becuase additives disappear water when additive and water are tested together ..... that this means the additive plus fuel will disappear water.

then there are demos of the additive plus fuel with water added and the mixture chokes the engine and the mixture seperators the water .


in both cases we don’t know if both situations are correct and the secret suave is the water spec....for example...add 8oz of additive to 10 gallons of fuel and get water protection of up to 1 tablespoon.

the whole thing remains confusing and I can see why results are all over the place.


I did buy some of this and used it in my vehicles.....but....I have yet to see a repeatable demo explaining how it works and the demo is of a additive+fuel+ some water nature.

I wouldn’t mind at all if it works ......I can add to the toolbox

 

I'm sorry Dave, but it feels like you are rehashing what's been discussed repeatedly before. There are a few videos out there that show high doses of K100 and water added together. We talked about how those tests left a critical part of the equation (fuel) out of the party. And in the other thread you agreed that doing a test to emulate what's done in our trucks, which is fuel + K100 at the recommended ratio followed by adding water would be something you would like to do at some time. Additionally, adding huge proportional doses of K100 isn't real world because a person isn't given advance warning before they pump water contaminated fuel into their truck. If they knew, then they wouldn't use that fuel. So proportional ratios of K100 is also needed to emulate real world conditions of unknowingly pumping contaminated fuel into your truck and/or condensation forming in your truck's fuel tank.