Okay only because I like Ian did I respond. And I will finish at one point also.

I am considering buying an LED H13 9008 bulb for my truck. I have two that I've looked at before but I'm not done yet.

There's this one from Diode Dynamics:

https://www.vleds.com/shop-applicati...o-evo-h13.html

It says as bright as a 35 watt HID which is really *****ing bright but I want to look into how well those LEDs are engineered in their placement on that bulb to reproduce what a halogen style bulb would produce; light without glare and being scattered everywhere.

They put out 3500 lumens per bulb.

It's just so obvious when someone has a piece of schit led bulb in their vehicle and it blinds you because the light output sucks.

Only a 2 year warranty but it's cranking some serious power. What I like is you have your choice of a 5000k bulb for more halogen like light color or a 6000k with a slight bluish tint which I personally do not like. $150.00 for the pair.

Also looking at these:

https://www.headlightrevolution.com/...lbs?quantity=1

These Morimotos are not DOT legal but I'm not too worried about that. They are not 6000k but 5700k so not as much blue as the 6000s. Sounds like the high beams aren't that great. 3 year warranty $194.00

These also have a sealed fan which blows the cool air over the hot electrical components inside and then blows the warmed air into the headlight housings to keep the housings free of snow and ice. I just wonder how good that works.

There's also these:

GTR Lightning Ultra 2.0 for $250.00

https://www.headlightrevolution.com/...0_2?quantity=1

They say 3900 raw lumens per bulb with 3350 real lumens. Crazy bright. 30 watt power. But comes with a limited lifetime warranty. This are only street legal in for lights. If aimed properly, they shouldn't be an issue. 6000k color rating.

I'll let the thread know if I come up with any more options. Peace...

 

Dave, I currently have a well running 2000 7.3L PSD, but have been lurking here in the 6.7L sub-forum for a little while over the past few months. Mostly since Mark (Mecdac) bought a new 6.7L PSD. I have met Mark in person as he lives just down I-85 from me and I like what he has told me about his 6.7L.

I am planning ahead as I know my 7.3L won't last forever. Be it government regulation, major component failure or someone runs into it while driving distracted.

Do you plan to list the fuel additives you use and why? I saw you mention them in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19792170

What about fuel system filters or modifications you have installed other than the DPK?

How often do you check/change the filters, etc?

If this is getting too specific for the intent if your thread that is fine, I will use the search function and take notes. I thought since you had the foresight to create this thread and you are a respected member of the 6.7L community, that those details may have a place here.

Thank you for your time and I have subscribed as I feel this will benefit my research of finding a reliable 6.7L PSD.

 

LED bulbs are a money grab and will never work well in a housing designed for a halogen bulb.

 

I know exactly what you are saying Bitter. And I couldn't agree more... if someone were to buy poorly engineered and cheaply made LED bulbs from Amazon, EBay, etc... Than those will perform horribly because they will scatter light everywhere and produce a horrible beam of light that will not allow the drivers to fully use the bulb output and utilize it which is too see at night. They will also blind oncoming traffic as well.

But, if you buy a well engineered product that has the LEDs where the filaments in a halogen bulb are, you will have similar results that work and will not blind oncoming drivers.

From the same channel that you posted up in regard to the Morimoto LED Super Duty housings, Headlight Revolution, watch this video. At 3:15 in, he explains why these bulbs work well. "optical alignment" of the LEDs.

Check it out:




And for general info for the general crowd here, watch this:

 

No worries @Sous I have to go work a side job. I will finish this later bud.

I work off duty at a jewelry store, sit at the front desk with access to a computer and make sure no one sticks the place up. So I can do some writing now.

First off, if Mark would let you take his for a ride or you took one for test drive, you will be hooked. So if you don't want to get of your beloved 7.3 yet or are not ready to buy one, don't take one for a drive.

Anyways, I use K100D+ for additive. I just learned this from the PSC website that they are transitioning to just the D+ as they had a D product for everyday use and a MD product for fuel storage. From their site: K100-D Diesel Fuel Treatment is manufactured by Kinetic Fuel Technology, Inc. This fuel additive is a diesel fuel anti-gel.*

*K100 is transitioning from 2 products down to one. The K100-D and the K100-MD with be combined to become K100-D+. This represents all the performance of the MD at the same cost of the D.
*(my words) it's a multi-function additive; way more than just anti-gel.

I've been using it since the truck was new. I have had no problems except the one time, I got the bottom of a tank at a local Mobil station. I can't remember exactly when but probably a day or two later, the truck wouldn't start. It cranked over but wouldn't start. I stopped after a few seconds or so. I thought of my last fill up and thought, "Yep, probably sucked in some bottom of the tank crud and loaded up the DFCM filter." I never bought fuel from there again. Luckily I had a set of MC filters. I changed them up, did 12 (my number I came up with) key on engine off cycles to prime the DFCM and purge the air from the fuel system. After the filter change, she started up. Boo yah!



Okay, from that link you posted up of my post:

EMULSIFICATION VS. DEMULSIFICATION

EMULSIFIERS VS. DEMULSIFIERS: WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO CONTROL WATER IN DIESEL FUEL?

[***************] INTRODUCTION

Water in diesel fuel is a serious problem for diesel equipment owners and operators. Most diesel fuel treatments use one of two methods to eliminate the negative effects caused by water in diesel fuel. Emulsifiers encapsulate water droplets and pass them through the fuel system to be vaporized and expelled during the combustion cycle. Demulsifiers cause water to precipitate out of the fuel where it can be separated mechanically by water separators or other means. This paper examines how the two techniques work, as well as arguments for and against each technique.

[***************] WATER IN DIESEL FUEL: CHALLENGE

Diesel fuel is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds water. Water occurs in diesel either as an emulsion (a mixture of water and fuel with the water dispersed uniformly throughout the fuel) or as free water (water that has separated out to form a visible interface between the heavier water and the lighter fuel floating on the water). Water in diesel fuel has the potential to lead to problems including:
• Corrosion of storage tanks and components
• Increased wear of fuel system components due to reduced lubricity
• Low-temperature inoperability due to the formation of ice crystals that can plug fuel filters and system components
• Microbial "slime" growth that can clog filters

[***************] DIESEL FUEL DESIGNATIONS

For the purposes of this discussion, "diesel fuel" includes the petrodiesel fuels obtained by distillation (refining) of crude oil and marketed in the United States primarily as Grade No. 2-D diesel fuel, along with Grade No. 1-D and Grade No. 4-D. Increasingly, diesel fuel also includes biodiesel fuels made primarily from vegetable oil feedstocks, including canola and soybean oils, along with waste vegetable oils and animal fats. Biodiesel fuel is typically marketed commercially as a blend with petrodiesel, with the blend ratio indicated in labels such as B20 representing a blend of 20% biodiesel with 80% petrodiesel.

[***************] WATER IN DIESEL FUEL: DISCUSSION

Most of the water in diesel fuel collects in the fuel as a result of the fuel's hygroscopic properties, meaning moisture from the atmosphere will be attracted to the fuel. Water also contaminates fuel through poor storage and handling techniques. Fuel tanks only partially filled with fuel and subjected to extreme temperature swings over long time periods may experience significant contamination from condensation, as water vapor inside the tanks condenses and trickles down the sides of the tank to mix with the fuel. Poor fuel handling techniques such as failure to maintain proper closures on fuel storage tanks and faulty fill pipes and vents can also lead to water contamination of fuel.

Except when large quantities of water are accidentally introduced into fuel as free water, the water will initially tend to be dispersed uniformly throughout the diesel fuel as an emulsion. In this water-in-fuel emulsion, there is always an interface between the small water particles or droplets and the fuel. The water-fuel interface in this water-diesel fuel emulsion is inherently unstable, so the water in diesel fuel will tend to separate from the fuel. Because diesel fuel is lighter than water, any water that precipitates out will collect in the bottom of the fuel tank, especially stationary storage tanks. Fuel tanks on moving diesel vehicles tend to keep the water in emulsion because of mechanical vibration. Therefore, fuel storage tanks for stationary equipment such as standby diesel generators are much more susceptible to water collecting at the bottom of the fuel tank.

Water that has collected at the bottom of a tank can be mechanically separated by draining the tank from the bottom until all the water is evacuated. Obviously, this technique for removing water from diesel fuel is impossible in situations where there is no drain built into the bottom of storage tanks. The water can also be pumped out by inserting a tube into the bottom of the tank. However, neither of these methods assures all the water will be separated, or that some of the water will not be agitated into an emulsion once again during mechanical removal.

Mechanical removal is also accomplished by the use of water separators and filters located between a fuel tank and the diesel engine's fuel delivery system, including the fuel pump and injectors. These devices are designed to separate even trace amounts of water. However, like all mechanical devices, separators and filters require regular maintenance and are susceptible to failure, including fuel stoppage due to plugging from contaminants.

Therefore, to supplement mechanical water removal techniques, fuel additives relying on either emulsification or demulsification are used to separate or render water harmless.*


*That's what K100 and this additive whose company wrote this article does. K100 combines with water and encapsulates it with a burnable compound to keep water from affecting the fuel system and burned off in the combustion chamber. So it essentially renders water harmless.

[***************] CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL: EMULSIFIERS

Fuel additives using emulsifiers are formulated to keep water in emulsion in the diesel fuel in such minute particles that the water passes harmlessly through the fuel delivery system where it is vaporized in the diesel engine's combustion chambers and released as steam.

Emulsifiers such as E-ZOIL's Diesel Aid rely on hydrogen bonding to keep the water in emulsion. Diesel fuel consists almost entirely of non‑polar molecules; that is, they have neither a positive nor a negative electrical charge. Water molecules, however, have both a positive and negative charge. The chemical formula in Diesel Aid contains both a positive and negative charge that, when mixed with diesel fuel and water, acts as a coupling agent to bond or encapsulate all three together into a homogenous mixture.

Additionally, emulsifiers such as Diesel Aid have surfactant properties that reduce the surface tension between the unlike molecules of oil and water, again making the mixture of the two both more homogenous and more stable.

The result is that water in the fuel is dispersed uniformly throughout the fuel in micro- or nanoscale particles that are bonded to the fuel.

[***************] ADVANTAGES OF EMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL

For typical applications where the ratio of fuel to water is quite large or to prevent such an occurrence, emulsifiers provide the most practical way to eliminate the potential risks of water contamination of fuel, particularly for on-vehicle fuel tanks that are constantly agitated by both vehicle motion and engine/drivetrain vibration. Water already emulsified is bound into a more homogenous and stable emulsion. Trace amounts of free water are also readily emulsified.

1. ELIMINATING FREE WATER
Because free water is eliminated, emulsifiers avoid some of the potential negative effects of demulsifiers. Because demulsifiers promote the formation of free water, any free water in the fuel tank or fuel delivery system can form ice crystals in freezing temperatures, clogging fuel filters, fuel lines and injectors, and even drastically reducing fuel lubricity, creating the potential for damage to critical fuel system components.
2. PREVENTING CORROSION
Another benefit of emulsifiers is that by eliminating free water from the fuel tank, they help prevent corrosion in the bottom of fuel tanks where the heavier water collects.
3. PREVENTING MICROBIAL SLIME
Eliminating free water also prevents the formation of a fuel/water interface where microbes can grow, creating slime that can plug fuel filters and fuel lines.

[***************] DISADVANTAGES OF EMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL

Many proponents of demulsification contend that any water/fuel emulsion reduces the lubricity of the fuel, a special concern in modern high-pressure common rail (HPCR) fuel systems where pressures up to 30,000 psi may increase the potential for shearing damage to mechanical components. Others point to the lower lubricity of ultra-low sulfur diesel (USLD) fuels as increasing the risk of fuel system damage from emulsified fuels, as water has much lower lubricity than diesel fuel.

[***************] ADVANCED DISCUSSION: PROS AND CONS OF EMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL

The following developments in fuel technology would suggest the above objections to emulsification do not stand up to scrutiny.

1. Emulsified Fuel.
Water-in-diesel emulsified fuel has been introduced into markets in the U.S. and Europe as a means of reducing pollutants such as particulate matter (PM) and nitrous oxides (NOX). According to the U.S. EPA, "Emulsified diesel is a blended mixture of diesel fuel, water, and other additives that lowers combustion temperatures and reduces emissions of PM as well as NOX. The additives also prevent water from contacting the engine."1

2. Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel.
While critics of emulsification point to the reduced lubricity of ULSD fuels as heightening the risk of damage to fuel system components from emulsified water, refiners typically use lubricity additives to restore lubricity. In addition, most aftermarket additives such as Diesel Aid include lubricity enhancers. Even more important, ULSD has enhanced surfactant properties compared to low sulfur diesel, resulting in a higher propensity for emulsified water in the fuel to remain in homogenous emulsification rather than separating out into free water.

3. Mechanical Water Separation.
While water protection devices such as fuel filters with hydrophilic filter elements are highly efficient at trapping free water and coarsely emulsified water, research indicates that especially under the pressures typical of high-pressure common-rail (HPCR) systems, mechanical filtration is extremely difficult, so that not all emulsified water can be captured by even the most advanced filters.2 In addition, many modern heavy trucks are equipped with a "Water In Fuel" warning light to alert operators to the presence of free water in mechanical fuel separators, but those warning lights are not activated by untreated emulsified water.

4. Biodiesel.
Biodiesel fuel is inherently more hygroscopic than petrodiesel, so even "light" blends such as B20 can hold more emulsified water than pure petrodiesel.
3. Since in general biodiesel fuels have higher lubricity than ULSD petrodiesel, once again the emulsified water would seem to be harmless in most situations.

[***************] CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL: DEMULSIFIERS

Demulsifiers cause emulsified water to separate from fuel into free water so it can be separated mechanically by techniques such as draining or filtering.

[***************] ADVANTAGES OF DEMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL

For applications where significant amounts of water contamination of diesel fuel have occurred, using a demulsifier may provide the optimum means for controlling water.

1. Enabling mechanical separation. Causing water to separate out of emulsion may enable mechanical separators and filters to separate small amounts of water from fuel, as these devices are most effective when water in fuel exists as free water or very coarsely emulsified water.

2. Enhanced energy content. Water in fuel reduces the energy content of the fuel delivered to the combustion chamber simply because any volume of water in fuel delivered to an engine's combustion chambers necessarily displaces a corresponding volume of fuel, reducing power output and, for over-the-road vehicles, miles per gallon.

[***************] DISADVANTAGES OF DEMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL FUEL

While demulsification would seem to provide "peace of mind" for diesel operators by promising to fully separate water and fuel, hygroscopic properties of both petrodiesel and biodiesel fuels suggest that complete separation of water from diesel may be impractical in many applications, and in the case of emulsified fuel, self‑defeating.

Moreover, in applications where a significant amount of water is present in the fuel tank of a vehicle, separating that water from the fuel might overwhelm mechanical filters and separators, causing anything from a temporary shutdown triggered by a Water In Fuel warning light to a catastrophic failure of fuel system components.

[***************] CONCLUSIONS: EMULSIFIERS VS. DEMULSIFIERS FOR CONTROLLING WATER IN DIESEL

The fear of water contamination of diesel fuel is acute for many owners and operators of diesel equipment and vehicles, including on-road and off-road applications. Both emulsifiers and demulsifiers are widely used fuel additives, both in bulk and as aftermarket additions to diesel fuel. The evidence presented in this paper suggests two general rules for selecting an emulsifier or demulsifier for specific applications:

1. For on-vehicle fuel tanks and any other application where the fuel is subjected to mechanical vibration or agitation that would tend to keep any water emulsified in diesel fuel, an emulsifier that both stabilizes that emulsified water-in-fuel mixture and ensures the emulsified water remains in a very fine micro- or nanoscale state is recommended. Similarly, emulsifiers would seem to have an advantage for biodiesel fuels that are more hygroscopic than petrodiesel fuels.

2. Where large-scale water contamination is proven or suspected, use of a demulsifier combined with a mechanical water separator is recommended.

They are obviously selling their products, but the article does a great job of explaining the topic of the two trains of thought when it comes to removal of moisture in diesel fuel.

EDIT 05/15/2021

In this article, it explains the method of "emulsification" in the same manner as how K100D works. When I talked to a representative from K100, a contact I have talked to personally and through email, he stated that K100 is not an emulsifier as it puts the water into a permanent solution. The typical emulsion or definition of emulsion is that it's only temporary. Like a salad dressing which is like oil and water. If you shake it up, it will go into a state of emulsion, if that's correct in me saying. But it will settle out and become two separate components.

From Bing:

emulsion
[əˈməlSH(ə)n]

NOUN

1. a fine dispersion of minute droplets of one liquid in another in which it is not soluble or miscible.
   synonyms:
   lotion · salve · application · preparation · rinse · liquid · liniment · embrocation
   • a fine dispersion of one liquid or pureed food substance in another.
     "ravioli with pea and ginger emulsion"

This does not happen with the K100. By the looks of the article, I do not believe it happens with their additive as it talks about hydrogen bonds with the water particles. I can't say for sure because I do not have experience with the company's additive who wrote this article, but K100 also adds lubricity value to the fuel when used.

 

I really like those Dave!

 

Go back to the link you posted and go through the links I provided if you have not already. Good info.

I use K100D+ because I believe in the emulsification method of removing or rather making water harmless to the fuel system. I think that because Ford went to a larger surface area water separator in the 17s and up, shows that water IS A CONCERN and that Ford was concerned enough that they re-designed their water separator from the 11 to 16s. JMHO.

When I first bought my truck, I started looking into the fuel we use, ULSD fuel. When I read that it absorbs moisture very easily, I didn't trust it. What that means is I didn't trust it enough to not run additive. I can't remember if I came across it online first or Ken at Advance Auto told me about it first. But I'm glad I found it. I also wanted to use additive for additional lubricity and anti-gel. K100D+ does that as well. It also is a anti-microbe agent as well. It adds a few points of cetane and is a cleaner for the fuel system as well.

Another way I found or rather side with the emulsification method was my research into air removal for diesel trucks. Your 7.3 does not have an issue with this because of the lower fuel pressures that those engines run. With the higher fuel pressures that modern day engines run come not only higher power levels, but also less tolerance to contaminants in the fuel like dirt, water and air. When I started to look into Fass and Air Dog systems, the obvious thing to me was that the very agitation of the fuel tank by the movement of the truck caused air to be generated and produced in the fuel as it sloshes around in the fuel tank. With the 29k psi and up produced by these 6.7s, I want to remove the air from my fuel to give my HPFP and injectors extra life if I can because I am driving out beyond the 125k mile warranty period. Plus I have an Overkill mentality. Go figure...

So if air was produced by the movement of the truck, the same could be applied to water that is in the fuel as well. With all that sloshing around, it would keep the water spread around in the fuel and make it harder for the water separators to remove it. And how would you know it removed all of it?

The DPK is not installed as I don't have it yet. The next fuel system mod would be an AFE Power DFS780. Smaller than the Fass and Air Dog systems. It's also plug and play, which the Air Dog is easier to install but you have to cut the fill up hose to install a tee fitting to return the fuel to the tank. Fass has the hardest install of all.

As to my fuel filter changes, I go about 3 OCIs or no further than 22.5 miles as per the factory manual. I also watch the fuel pressure at the HPFP with my iDash 1.8. So if I ever saw an issue with fuel pressure, I'd know by seeing it and then would change the filters. I only run Motorcraft's set. I read somewhere that the DFCM filter has a purge valve on it or something like to allow the air to be purged. I'll have to see if I can find that info and post up.

I let the truck tell me when to change the oil. It's usually just over 7k miles. I use MC oil filters but did buy a 3 pack of Donaldson oil filters on Amazon. I use one when I recently changed the oil. I plan on using that Triax semi-syn 10w30 next oil change. I get my oil analyzed. I still have to get this last one sent in to Blackstone Labs.

I appreciate your comments. Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'm no expert, just a guy who's Dad taught him basics and who has gotten into these stuff a little more by reading online and learning stuff here also. Hope this helps.

 

Still don't know which ones I'm going to go with... I'll let the thread know here.

 

Thank you for the well thought out and detailed response. I think you and I are a lot alike based on our viewpoints and methods.

I am just now beginning my journey to learn the intricacies of the 6.7L and the various generations in the way of the engine, transmission and truck itself.

When my day comes and I need to replace the 7.3L, I plan to be well educated about what to look for and what I want and need. Thanks to people like you and many others in this great community I can learn the hard and expensive lessons the easy and cheap way.

I have subscribed and will be following along from the shadows, but I will be sure to pop in a post if I have a question.

Thanks again!

 

No problem. Let me know...


I would have rather waited until fall time but i couldn't pass up the deal. A Meyer 8 foot Lot Pro installed for $4566 which includes NYS'$ ridiculous taxes. The only other place around that deals with Meyer wanted $7800 plus tax. So for 4200 I'd say i did the right thing because they only had a limited amount of plows for the Meyer promo.

 

We have a sump on Blue with the Fass.

 

I used to drive my 96 with my 8 ft Husky blade just inches off the ground to allow air to still flow into the radiator. The Husky blade was not as high as the Lot pro is. I drove with this one down some on the Thruway at only 55 to 60 mph. The coolant got up to 219 deg and the oil was 224 deg.

Is that safe and okay? It stayed like that for awhile because of the longer drive. I'd appreciate some experienced input here.

Yeah I remember that from your thread. I assume it was already installed in the truck when you bought it.

 

Yup, how handy is that!

 

Just saw this yesterday but it's a newer video. Banks has made videos on this before. Anyone considering a Stealth Box or any other fuel box that just adds more fuel to the equation should watch this video.

I have a used Derringer and iDash setup that I haven't installed yet. I want the S&S DPK on first and a AFE DFS780 installed also.

 

We also sell AFE 😎