Why Ford
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,246
Likes: 7,664
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
Thank you for your thoughts. I must admit, I would prefer the diesel (rather have too much than too little) but I don't want to be foolish either. My average daily drive is 32 miles each way, with 1 or 2 10 mile drives in between. Its mostly highway, traffic for about half of the trip and then 70 mph the rest of the way.
When I was looking I went with the F450 over the F350 because of the turning radius and the knowing it won't be overloaded.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 736
Likes: 225
I tried out a 2017 Ram Cummins (and Chebby Dursmax) before I bought my 2017 F350 Lariat CCSB 6.7.
The Ram seemed to hesitate even under light acceleration from a stop. The flip up towing mirrors are terrible. The ride was rougher than the Fords. The dash buttons seemed random, with the engine brake particularly hard to locate.
I have never regretted getting the F350.
The Ram seemed to hesitate even under light acceleration from a stop. The flip up towing mirrors are terrible. The ride was rougher than the Fords. The dash buttons seemed random, with the engine brake particularly hard to locate.
I have never regretted getting the F350.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 248
Likes: 4
Would the 7.3 be able to tackle big hills and high elevations gracefully with the trailer I noted (Sandpiper 389RD) or heavier like the Paradigm Alliance 365RD (39' 10", GVRW 16800, pin weight 2784)? I am thinking the latter is getting to be too much for the payload of a SRW so maybe a moot point. Back to the diesel for a moment, I could have my wife drive it when I am not so that the mileage could be closer to 20 or 25k/year. This would save miles on her vehicle as well. Just some thoughts that may or may not change your opinion.
A friend of mine bought a 2020 6.7L CCLB SRW a few months ago and is it impressive. No question it won’t struggle with your load. Despite being impressed with the Diesel I wound up ordering the 7.3L. All the towing tests I have read and watched on it were positive other than being thirsty. I do not put a large amount of miles per year and only 50% is towing so would take forever and a day to recover the extra cost. Another big factor that played in to going 7.3L is, in a CCSB the 7.3L gained around 600Lbs of payload over a similar equipped 6.7L F-350. May be a moot point on CCLB since not sure the 12.4K GVW is available for the 7.3L.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 46
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with that info i would go diesel, but that is me. when looking for a truck I could have gotten "by" with another F250 (see the pic in my signature) that is my '97 F250 at 27,000 lbs. does it do it? yes! Is it safe? the way i drive probably. will I do it again after towing that load with my F450? never.
When I was looking I went with the F450 over the F350 because of the turning radius and the knowing it won't be overloaded.
When I was looking I went with the F450 over the F350 because of the turning radius and the knowing it won't be overloaded.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Concur!
You bring up a couple of KEY point in towing: Spread the load and LEVEL your rig.
Doing these 2 will assist in mitigating some pin weight yes.
First spreading the weight, not easy to do and you are flying blind so to speak so mitigate just spread the loads in the area of use. Use all the cabinets in the kitchen. Keep as little as possible in your black/grey/fresh water tanks.
LEVEL: This is EXTREMELY important yet few bother with it. Put a sprit level stick on just above and centered on your 3 trailer wheels on each side. Procedure: Take a sprit level and place against the outer wall and centered between the tires when it levels, draw a line about 2 in. do on both side of the trailer. Stick a sprit level (Wall Mart, 2 pack about $3 bucks) on the line.
When you load onto the bed of the truck you are going to need from 4-6 inches of clearance between the bottom edge of your truck rail bed and the 5th wheel. that is your co-wittness point. Level up the 5th wheel ones truck rail and insure or do your best to level up at the 2 rear wheel sets.
I would shoot for 6 in vertical clearance and adjust from there. To much down on the rear wheels were lead to premature tire wear, suspension wear, wheel bearing wear and brake wear increased PIN wt. Weight to the rear wheel set will do same only on the rear decreased pin weight.
DO your best to = the truck-wheel leveling and only compromise if you must.
You bring up a couple of KEY point in towing: Spread the load and LEVEL your rig.
Doing these 2 will assist in mitigating some pin weight yes.
First spreading the weight, not easy to do and you are flying blind so to speak so mitigate just spread the loads in the area of use. Use all the cabinets in the kitchen. Keep as little as possible in your black/grey/fresh water tanks.
LEVEL: This is EXTREMELY important yet few bother with it. Put a sprit level stick on just above and centered on your 3 trailer wheels on each side. Procedure: Take a sprit level and place against the outer wall and centered between the tires when it levels, draw a line about 2 in. do on both side of the trailer. Stick a sprit level (Wall Mart, 2 pack about $3 bucks) on the line.
When you load onto the bed of the truck you are going to need from 4-6 inches of clearance between the bottom edge of your truck rail bed and the 5th wheel. that is your co-wittness point. Level up the 5th wheel ones truck rail and insure or do your best to level up at the 2 rear wheel sets.
I would shoot for 6 in vertical clearance and adjust from there. To much down on the rear wheels were lead to premature tire wear, suspension wear, wheel bearing wear and brake wear increased PIN wt. Weight to the rear wheel set will do same only on the rear decreased pin weight.
DO your best to = the truck-wheel leveling and only compromise if you must.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,246
Likes: 7,664
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
If it wasn't for the difficulties DRW would cause me in every day life, the 450 would be high on my list for exactly that reason. Unfortunately, parking at work would not only be painful but often impossible as finding two spaces side by side is frequently impossible.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 46
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From my research the 7.3L with 4:30 gears should be able to handle it but the diesel will do better when you start getting in the higher weight class, plus have a exhaust break.
A friend of mine bought a 2020 6.7L CCLB SRW a few months ago and is it impressive. No question it won’t struggle with your load. Despite being impressed with the Diesel I wound up ordering the 7.3L. All the towing tests I have read and watched on it were positive other than being thirsty. I do not put a large amount of miles per year and only 50% is towing so would take forever and a day to recover the extra cost. Another big factor that played in to going 7.3L is, in a CCSB the 7.3L gained around 600Lbs of payload over a similar equipped 6.7L F-350. May be a moot point on CCLB since not sure the 12.4K GVW is available for the 7.3L.
A friend of mine bought a 2020 6.7L CCLB SRW a few months ago and is it impressive. No question it won’t struggle with your load. Despite being impressed with the Diesel I wound up ordering the 7.3L. All the towing tests I have read and watched on it were positive other than being thirsty. I do not put a large amount of miles per year and only 50% is towing so would take forever and a day to recover the extra cost. Another big factor that played in to going 7.3L is, in a CCSB the 7.3L gained around 600Lbs of payload over a similar equipped 6.7L F-350. May be a moot point on CCLB since not sure the 12.4K GVW is available for the 7.3L.
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If it wasn't for the difficulties DRW would cause me in every day life, the 450 would be high on my list for exactly that reason. Unfortunately, parking at work would not only be painful but often impossible as finding two spaces side by side is frequently impossible.
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