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It is steel I'm pretty sure. It has a greenish color to it. I was going to go with the copper nickel, but opted to use steel instead since I already had most of it. I'm probably not going to paint them, not yet anyway. Maybe one day.
I've bought the green coated copper nickel lines and that green coating looks like it's a powder coat, i.e. melted plastic. It's pretty durable. If you don't like the color or if you're trying to make it look like original steel, then Barnie's idea would probably do the trick, but I would suggest doing a sample test first if you use gasoline to make sure it doesn't melt the coating.
Pesky distributor leaks, I use to cure those by the atv also.
Get it warmed up, mark and pull dist, clean it up, apply atv, drop it in and get it timed asap and tighten it down, shut if off and leave it sit for a while.
Not much danger of it sealing so tight it won't move for the next timing procedure.
Pesky distributor leaks, I use to cure those by the atv also.
Get it warmed up, mark and pull dist, clean it up, apply atv, drop it in and get it timed asap and tighten it down, shut if off and leave it sit for a while.
Not much danger of it sealing so tight it won't move for the next timing procedure.
Well I found the issue. It was not the distributor as I had previously thought. I had it running and was looking for oil leaks to confirm, shut it off and heard a loud whistle. Started it again, shut it off, same thing. The whistling was coming from the dipstick tube while the pressure was releasing. I replaced the PCV valve, no change. PCV goes to the manifold as it should and vacuum is sitting rock solid at 22. Did some research and found mention of a vent in the valve cover. I removed the oil filler cap and ran the same test. No pressure build or oil leaking. I cut a small access in the rubber for the filler cap and have not had an issue since. Anybody else know why that might be?
I also put new plugs in and got everything dialed in. She starts first time, every time and purrs nice. I drove it to work today for the first time in a while. The next thing will be to replace the output shaft seal on the trans and get the rebuild kit for the steering gear box. Both are the last leaks that need to be dealt with.
Glad you caught that. That might have caused your new seals to leak.
You've got something up....hmmmm
I have a 428 that started having to much pressure, and ended up putting a vented fill cap on it.
Well I found the issue. It was not the distributor as I had previously thought. I had it running and was looking for oil leaks to confirm, shut it off and heard a loud whistle. Started it again, shut it off, same thing. The whistling was coming from the dipstick tube while the pressure was releasing. I replaced the PCV valve, no change. PCV goes to the manifold as it should and vacuum is sitting rock solid at 22. Did some research and found mention of a vent in the valve cover. I removed the oil filler cap and ran the same test. No pressure build or oil leaking. I cut a small access in the rubber for the filler cap and have not had an issue since. Anybody else know why that might be?
I also put new plugs in and got everything dialed in. She starts first time, every time and purrs nice. I drove it to work today for the first time in a while. The next thing will be to replace the output shaft seal on the trans and get the rebuild kit for the steering gear box. Both are the last leaks that need to be dealt with.
A lot of the old six cylinder engines had a vented oil fill cap. You can still buy them.
Yep. I picked one up last night and ditched the other one. I picked up the rebuild kit for the steering gear box and trans output shaft seal today too. That should take care of every leak. The continuous trim search has yielded a couple more pieces. I was also able to find the hood spears for the trim and I am meeting the guy on Thursday to pick those up. That leaves me needing the cowl pieces, driver door and small cab corners.
On a side note, I put on the hood hinges that arrived and no big surprise the hood sticks up in the rear. The bright side is I now have a set to experiment on rebuilding, which if it works like I think it will should take care of the issue. I'll record the process once I get there,
The new fuse panel and relays also arrived today. I'm going to relay the headlights, because I'm tired of them going out from time to time. I also want to get rid of the cracking fuse panel and get it updated. I will finish up the wiring harness under the hood once the panel is replaced. Timing is now 100% dialed in and it is so much nicer to have it start with the first flick of the key every time.
I haven't done much to the truck. I still have the fuse panel, steering gear box seals, and trans yoke seal in the cabinet. It turns out being a full time student and having a full time career as well as side gigs/family time takes up a lot Hopefully I'll get to a couple of things this weekend. I did a couple of little things that I thought needed to be addressed however. The stick for the 95 trans did not fit the look of the truck and I had this chrome one from an old toploader 4 speed that was in dad's scrap pile. It fits the look of the truck better and is much more comfortable to drive as it doesn't hit my leg in 2nd gear. I also didn't like the look of the heater controls hanging below the dash, but like having the flaps work. I only needed one pull lever to work, so I got rid of the two hanging below and used the unnecessary choke lever to work the flap. Much cleaner in my opinion. I also cleaned out and rubber coated the inside of the doors. The doors on this truck are rust free and they should now be protected. I also used some sound deadening panels I had on the inside of the doors to cut down on the hollow metal sound when closing the doors. They are a little quieter.
Borrowed a socket from a friend to get the yoke off of the trans. It wouldn’t fit down inside the yoke to get to the nut. So I got it off the only way I knew. With a drill, chisel, and hammer. This is what victory looks like folks. One major leak left.
I've had to grind down the outsides of thin wall sockets at times to do those scenario's.
I have a 3/4 drive that I put on a metal lathe and turned it down to fit.
Some manufacturers make things difficult to work on......buy special tools......etc
Could be filled if yer handy....
Hopefully I'll get to a couple of things this weekend. I did a couple of little things that I thought needed to be addressed however. The stick for the 95 trans did not fit the look of the truck and I had this chrome one from an old toploader 4 speed that was in dad's scrap pile. It fits the look of the truck better and is much more comfortable to drive as it doesn't hit my leg in 2nd gear. I also didn't like the look of the heater controls hanging below the dash, but like having the flaps work. I only needed one pull lever to work, so I got rid of the two hanging below and used the unnecessary choke lever to work the flap. Much cleaner in my opinion. I also cleaned out and rubber coated the inside of the doors. The doors on this truck are rust free and they should now be protected. I also used some sound deadening panels I had on the inside of the doors to cut down on the hollow metal sound when closing the doors. They are a little quieter.
