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I was looking for solutions to restore the manifolds and found it referenced on a few different classic car forums with good results. I found this video that showed what he did to get them ready for spray.
I figured for $7 I'd give it a shot and see. It will not hold up to solvents of any kind, but does not come off when handled. If it holds up, great, if not I'll find something else. Half a can did both of them.
I got a few more things done. I made the vacuum lines all hard line where I could. I also sorted the wiring harness under the hood and rerouted a good portion of it. Dad had run a thick bundle of wires along the top of the front core support. That will be along the firewall. All of the motor wiring also starts at the firewall now. I just finished up the engine harness this morning. I’m going to work on the truck harness next.
More progress. The brake and clutch pedal are laying in the floor now since I pulled the brake booster and master cylinder off. I am bending new lines to the proportioning valve since the ones on it were kind of thrown in to make it move, or stop if you will. I got one done, but ran out of tubing so I have to pick up another piece. I have to put a boot on the master cylinder to seal up the hole in the firewall. The motor is now hanging on the lift waiting to go in. We got the clutch mounted back on it. I should get back to the engine bay next weekend to get more done.
Finished up the wiring harness in the engine bay. I bent new brake lines from the master and fastened down the fuel line, which was just laying in there. It is all new line and was run inside the frame rail so it wasn't totally scarry, just not fastened at all after reaching the engine bay. I also tightened up the driver side windshield wiper and put it back on. I need to clean up the motor mounts and lower alternator mount and get it painted. I can then drop the motor back in. I got the hole behind the booster blocked up to keep the wind from coming in. I can't do the paint and body this go around, but will in the next year or two and that will be addressed proper. The harness can now be pulled out relatively easy when I get to the paint stage. For now it should be much more comfortable to drive on a cold day now and no longer leaking from everywhere, which was the short term goal.
jjriley,
NICE job on the tube bending...... I can tell you've done that type of work before!
BarnieTrk
Thank you. I appreciate the compliment, but this truck was my first time doing hard line. I bought a cheap bender from harbor freight and watched YouTube. I had to use a socket to finish the 360’s coming off of the master cylinder since the bender would do 180. It’s pretty easy as long as you get the measurements down.
jjriley,
Did you use steel tubing or copper-nickel tubing? It doesn't look like stainless steel tubing.....
The copper-nickel tubing that has come out since our old Slicks were first manufactured with steel tubing is much easier to work with.
It is steel I'm pretty sure. It has a greenish color to it. I was going to go with the copper nickel, but opted to use steel instead since I already had most of it. I'm probably not going to paint them, not yet anyway. Maybe one day.
It is steel I'm pretty sure. It has a greenish color to it. I was going to go with the copper nickel, but opted to use steel instead since I already had most of it. I'm probably not going to paint them, not yet anyway. Maybe one day.
i looked at them again and yes they are copper nickel.
I wipe the installed lines with a rag soaked in some gasoline to de-grease them. Once they're dry (only a few minutes later) I spray the brake lines with a gray (cast-iron color) paint..... I use a small section of cardboard behind them so as not to get overspray on other parts. JMHO.....
I wipe the installed lines with a rag soaked in some gasoline to de-grease them. Once they're dry (only a few minutes later) I spray the brake lines with a gray (cast-iron color) paint..... I use a small section of cardboard behind them so as not to get overspray on other parts. JMHO.....
BarnieTrk
That’s a good idea Barnie. I may do that at some point.
The motor is back in its home. I filled it with oil and got it primed and the timing is in need of final setting once I get it started. Just a few things left and it’ll be running again.
Been a minute since I updated. The valve lash was too tight so I had to remove the valve cover and loosen the rockers. I figured it would be better to adjust them with the truck running at this point. Then I had to dismantle the work I did on the wiring harness, because it wouldn't start. I finally got it started last night and got to drive it the mile to my house as a test. It runs awesome. Still have to dial a few things in and the pesky distributor is leaking oil at the base again, but it is the only oil leak and temporary. Once I get the timing dialed in I'm going to mark it, cut a gasket and rtv it. I'm not sure what else to do with it, but the o-rings won't cut it and I'm tired of trying them.
Next I'll get the wiring harness tidied back up and wait on the hood hinges I found to arrive. Body work can start now to get it ready for paint. I'm making it a driver not a show queen so it will have nice paint, but won't be a frame off. I say that now, but we'll see.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
