The engine that failed
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
Not only the bowl gaskets, but one of the transfer tubes is leaking too. I do have the reusable bolt gaskets. I remember AB mentioning them years back so I got some. Tried to tighten the bowl bolts ... still leaked.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
Tried again to fire it up. No spark. I chased that for a while, but it got late and I threw in the towel for the day. I have to ck the grounds for the msd. It turns, but the coil gets a few sparks, then nothing. It has power, so I need to ck the grounds.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
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I know you know this but I'm going to ask anyway.
Do you have the MSD red power lead connected to the battery cable at the starter solenoid and the black power ground lead to the battery ground cable on the engine block?
The small red wire needs to connected to an "ignition on wire" that doesn't have ballast resistance.
I had one case where the owner used the resistor ignition wire to activate the MSD box and also had it connected to the electric choke on the carburetor.
The electric choke pulled the voltage low enough to turn the MSD off.
Do you have the MSD red power lead connected to the battery cable at the starter solenoid and the black power ground lead to the battery ground cable on the engine block?
The small red wire needs to connected to an "ignition on wire" that doesn't have ballast resistance.
I had one case where the owner used the resistor ignition wire to activate the MSD box and also had it connected to the electric choke on the carburetor.
The electric choke pulled the voltage low enough to turn the MSD off.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
The MSD + is to the battery + cable. The ground is grounded to frame. Block is grounded from starter bolt to frame. Battery - is grounded to frame where the 3g alt is grounded. The only thing that has changed in 10+ years is the ground on the starter bolt. That has to be the culprit.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
The Battery - cable should be grounded to the engine block, no exceptions.
Then if you want to run a heavy cable from the starter bolt to the frame, that's ok
Is the cable from the starter bolt to the frame the same size as the battery cable?
Then if you want to run a heavy cable from the starter bolt to the frame, that's ok
Is the cable from the starter bolt to the frame the same size as the battery cable?
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
The Black MSD power lead MUST go to the engine block because it is the return line for the Ignition coil's High Voltage coming back from the spark plugs.
Take a multimeter and measure the resistance from the HV terminal of the ignition coil to either of the two primary coil terminals. You should see the secondary coil resistance.
The Negative battery cable must either go directly to the engine block or it can attach to the end of the cable (at the frame end) that goes to the starter bolt.
At no time should starter current pass through any section of the frame.
Furthermore anytime there is welding being done on the truck the wiring to the MSD box needs to be disconnected. I go as far as to remove the MSD box from the vehicle during welding.
With all the above considerations your MSD system should live long and prosper.
Take a multimeter and measure the resistance from the HV terminal of the ignition coil to either of the two primary coil terminals. You should see the secondary coil resistance.
The Negative battery cable must either go directly to the engine block or it can attach to the end of the cable (at the frame end) that goes to the starter bolt.
At no time should starter current pass through any section of the frame.
Furthermore anytime there is welding being done on the truck the wiring to the MSD box needs to be disconnected. I go as far as to remove the MSD box from the vehicle during welding.
With all the above considerations your MSD system should live long and prosper.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
The Black MSD power lead MUST go to the engine block because it is the return line for the Ignition coil's High Voltage coming back from the spark plugs.
Take a multimeter and measure the resistance from the HV terminal of the ignition coil to either of the two primary coil terminals. You should see the secondary coil resistance.
The Negative battery cable must either go directly to the engine block or it can attach to the end of the cable (at the frame end) that goes to the starter bolt.
At no time should starter current pass through any section of the frame.
Furthermore anytime there is welding being done on the truck the wiring to the MSD box needs to be disconnected. I go as far as to remove the MSD box from the vehicle during welding.
With all the above considerations your MSD system should live long and prosper.
Take a multimeter and measure the resistance from the HV terminal of the ignition coil to either of the two primary coil terminals. You should see the secondary coil resistance.
The Negative battery cable must either go directly to the engine block or it can attach to the end of the cable (at the frame end) that goes to the starter bolt.
At no time should starter current pass through any section of the frame.
Furthermore anytime there is welding being done on the truck the wiring to the MSD box needs to be disconnected. I go as far as to remove the MSD box from the vehicle during welding.
With all the above considerations your MSD system should live long and prosper.
I fired it up. Holy cow. It's a monster. I was surprised that it is so loud! The loudness made me go back and weld up a couple of clamp connections on the exhaust, but that didn't quiet it much. (I'm always careful to disconnect the ground when I employ electrical welding on the vehicle). Quite a beast. It began to sound like a diesel, so after the cam break in I shut it down so I can ck the valve adjustment once again to see if the diesel sound is coming from the valve train. I also have to change the p/s pulley. It wobbles so I'm afraid it is going to fly off its shaft.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
If you have the black power lead connected to the Batt- cable that is good.
I was just concerned because you mentioned something about connecting to the neutral safety switch.
Glad to see you got it running and through break-in
I was just concerned because you mentioned something about connecting to the neutral safety switch.
Glad to see you got it running and through break-in
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Awesome, K! Way to go on getting it fired up and the cam broken in! That has to feel good.
Now to seat the rings, and you'll be set.
Mine was pretty loud the first time I fired it up, and some valve adjustment helped quite a bit.
Now to seat the rings, and you'll be set.
Mine was pretty loud the first time I fired it up, and some valve adjustment helped quite a bit.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I'm using Pennzoil 10/30 with Lucas zinc additive.
I have the msd box on the driver fender, vertical, to keep it away from header heat. My ground is to the frame by the box. Today I'll ck the resistance and determine if I should to the block. I run a ground from the dizzy too. Once I run the valves I'll play with the timing and see how it affects the vacuum. I believe it is now set at 10* advanced. It idles at 700 rpm with 17 hg vacuum.
Yesterday I got a reminder to wear rubber gloves when testing the msd box. I took a jolt. My head snapped back so hard my neck was sore.
Thanks for all the help, guys.
I can't wait to drive it. It's been a long time since I had a manual trans. I found that the oem spring on the clutch pedal does not work correctly. Maybe due to the mods I did. I have to take it off and run a conventional return spring at a diff. location.
I have the msd box on the driver fender, vertical, to keep it away from header heat. My ground is to the frame by the box. Today I'll ck the resistance and determine if I should to the block. I run a ground from the dizzy too. Once I run the valves I'll play with the timing and see how it affects the vacuum. I believe it is now set at 10* advanced. It idles at 700 rpm with 17 hg vacuum.
Yesterday I got a reminder to wear rubber gloves when testing the msd box. I took a jolt. My head snapped back so hard my neck was sore.
Thanks for all the help, guys.
I can't wait to drive it. It's been a long time since I had a manual trans. I found that the oem spring on the clutch pedal does not work correctly. Maybe due to the mods I did. I have to take it off and run a conventional return spring at a diff. location.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
You're not using a quart of actual break-in oil?
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/...-break-engine/
I would wait until you get one, drain a quart, and then add it in if you don't have some already. It's imperative.
I hear you on getting a shock, that'll wake you up! Just gives me the jitters for a good 10 minutes or so afterward, too.
I know I was itching to drive a manual again after my new Bronco had the AOD, and I drove an auto for 6 months or so. I can't imagine going for years.
It's going to be fun, you'll love it!
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/...-break-engine/
I would wait until you get one, drain a quart, and then add it in if you don't have some already. It's imperative.
I hear you on getting a shock, that'll wake you up! Just gives me the jitters for a good 10 minutes or so afterward, too.
I know I was itching to drive a manual again after my new Bronco had the AOD, and I drove an auto for 6 months or so. I can't imagine going for years.
It's going to be fun, you'll love it!